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Perhaps I have gotten lucky. I'm sure I'll have to order in at some point. All the saws I've worked on so far though, I call ahead to make sure but they've had an Oregon kit in stock. Usually around 18 bucks. Just got her running by the way. Carb cleaning, diaphragm replacements, fuel tank flush and we're in business.
 

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Got my 044 build put together today, pretty much went over the entire thing including a few AM parts that were hard to get a hold of in Canada. Test fire was good but it surges a little if you flip the saw on its side, could be carb related as I haven’t done anything with it and this saw was sitting in a repair shop for 10-15 years before I touched it. New OEM seals, rings, intake boot, impulse, fuel lines+ filter and then an AM recoil, sprocket cover, brake handle, and wrap. Runs super good though and idles perfectly and has held a tune so far. Never run an 044 and I’m crazy excited to try it in wood once the rings break in. IMG_5698.jpegIMG_5699.jpeg
 
Did you vac/pressure test it?
No I didn't yet, I changed the carb diaphragms and its been perfect after that. I'll definitely test it though if the symptoms come back. If anything its the carb because I sprayed down the seals with cleaner and it didn't stall at all, I'm hoping the diaphragms the problem. I got it running good and after 1 tank of idling/breakin I barred it up an took a few test cuts. Runs like hell!IMG_5700.jpg
 
This little nugget saw is on the bench again. Finally found a chain brake assembly for it. Runs like a top, the power it has reminds me a lot of my MS250. And it’s 50 years old!
View attachment 1152489
I have one !,Mint condition&I cant bear to throw it out
This little nugget saw is on the bench again. Finally found a chain brake assembly for it. Runs like a top, the power it has reminds me a lot of my MS250. And it’s 50 years old!
View attachment 1152489
 
Thanks for sharing this, it has lead me down a bit of a rabit hole of experimentation... 1 thing I just noticed was the video you later referenced recommended a concentration considerably stronger than your recipe... wondering if you found it similarly effective being that much more diluted or possibly if you ment to say litres not gallons?
You tube link for reference...

been a while since you posted this and I did screw up the formula, good catch. I just did a show room resto on a 70's Rockwell drill press, so I made 5 more gallons and checked my math before mixing. not sure how I screwed that up, :rolleyes: but the stuff worked for my vise restores so I think I mixed it right but wrote down the wrong numbers in my previous post.

to make 1 gallon:
1 gallon of water
190 grams of EDTA
mix in citric acid until you reach neutral PH with test strips (60 grams MOL).
squirt of soap as a surfactant.
mix until water is clear

as mentioned before, this stuff takes a day longer than Evaporust. another difference, when you pull the parts out, they still look rusty, but it washes right off in the shop sink.

PXL_20230612_000947678.jpgPXL_20240214_152543157.MP.jpgPXL_20240219_164736769.PORTRAIT.jpgPXL_20240219_170918370.MP.jpg
 
I tried to edit my post from Dec 14th where I gave bad info on the evaporust formula but I guess old posts time out for editing. I hate for someone to use this bad info. if a mod can delete it or whatever it is post #1939 on Dec 14th. should read:

to make 1 gallon:
1 gallon of water
190 grams of EDTA
mix in citric acid until you reach neutral PH with test strips (60 grams MOL).
squirt of soap as a surfactant.
mix until water is clear

as mentioned before, this stuff takes a day longer than Evaporust. another difference, when you pull the parts out, they still look rusty, but it washes right off in the shop sink.
 
My 044 project has been giving me some issues. Saw seems to have an intermittent idle issue, as it its fine and then when I turn the saw on the side it will rise and then go back down after a bit. Pressure tested the carb and it was o.k. Pressure and vac on the crankcase was good, only lost 1 inHg over 30seconds. (Unless thats a fail but I see it as a pass). Carb suspect?? Not sure what to look at now other than clean the carb better.IMG_5733.jpg
 
My 044 project has been giving me some issues. Saw seems to have an intermittent idle issue, as it its fine and then when I turn the saw on the side it will rise and then go back down after a bit. Pressure tested the carb and it was o.k. Pressure and vac on the crankcase was good, only lost 1 inHg over 30seconds. (Unless thats a fail but I see it as a pass). Carb suspect?? Not sure what to look at now other than clean the carb better.View attachment 1155932
I had a 385XP that developed a case gasket leak between the crankcase & the bar oil reservoir... was a PITA to find as it would only leak when it was warm & not covered in bar oil
 
I had a 385XP that developed a case gasket leak between the crankcase & the bar oil reservoir... was a PITA to find as it would only leak when it was warm & not covered in bar oil
That sounds like a PITA. 😬 I ran it with a full bar oil tank though so not likely my issue. The saw doesn't miss a beat under load, 4-strokes at WOT and cleans up in a cut really nice. Sprayed down the saw with carb clean when demonstrating the funny idle all around and no stalls, not even a hitch. Im running a tad rich for break-in of new rings anyways. New impulse line, fuel line, fuel filter, carb diaphragms. Honestly it has me a little stumped right now.
 
It's probably crank seals.
On the clutch side there is the oiler bushing/sleeve.
Part # 11
Take drum, clutch, oiler worm off. Then you have the sleeve ,remove and inspect the seal.
When reinstalling sleeve grease the outer edges and center hole of the sleeve base, along with the base of crank towards bearing. This grease will seal the center of the sleeve. On the 044/440 this action is routine maintenance. If you want to p/v test, the sleeve needs to be in place and the clutch needs to be on.
When all done reassemble in proper order.
 
It's probably crank seals.
On the clutch side there is the oiler bushing/sleeve.
Part # 11
Take drum, clutch, oiler worm off. Then you have the sleeve ,remove and inspect the seal.
When reinstalling sleeve grease the outer edges and center hole of the sleeve base, along with the base of crank towards bearing. This grease will seal the center of the sleeve. On the 044/440 this action is routine maintenance. If you want to p/v test, the sleeve needs to be in place and the clutch needs to be on.
When all done reassemble in proper order.
I did that... It has new Stihl seals in it. It passed pressure and vac test. Sprayed down seals while running and no choke/bogging action. Im convinced its the carb at this point or 'maybe' a case half seal. No leak at cylinder base gasket either
 
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