Whats the easiest to learn chain sharpener

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
There are hundreds of videos on how to sharpen by hand and what chain should look like. Set aside a hour three times a week and get started. Do not plan that it should look good or work. Just get started. After a couple of failures you will learn. Do not worry about the rakers at first. Compare to a new chain. I am not going to make a video yet. Start with just a reasonable consistent angle then try to lift up enough to have a sharp edge on the cutters. Then try to take a swipe on the rakers. Soon you will have big chips. It can be rewarding. Thanks
Do the sharpening rotary tools for chain saw spin slower than the dremel tool? Because there is no way I would use a standard dremel tool for chainsaw work. It spins way too fast for that purpose.
Cheap, fine, diamond stone on left (‘EZE-LAP’); coarser ABN stone on right.

The fine stone might be okay for polishing (?), but will not remove material as well as the coarser stone.

I really think those rpms are way to high for grinding metal teeth. It would be way better at somewhere around 1000 to 1200 rims. The stones would last longer.
I have tried many files & dremel setups but only make powder or sawdust after sharpening a chain, I need the EASIEST, dummy proof way to sharpen a chain. All my chains are 3/8 pico or low profile, I have been looking
at Stihl 2in1 sharpener, seems to be easiest to learn. Does anyone have a opinion on easiest to use chain sharpener?
The easiest way is to take them in and have them sharpened by a service. Not the cheapest, perhaps, but if you are either a homeowner who needs a few sharpened each year OR a business paying skilled labour rates for a climber/faller to sharpen chains, it might be cheaper in the long run.
Hand filing is the best but it takes time to learn so there are very few in todays world that will ever spend the time to learn how to hand file, the Stihl two in one has proven itself to be a good alternative to a free hand file sharpening with the guys I cut with. I started filing chains long before any guides were popular and even to this day I will try teaching others but few will ever take the time to learn or practice to get even close to a good cutting chain.
I really think those rpms are way to high for grinding metal teeth. It would be way better at somewhere around 1000 to 1200 rims. The stones would last longer.
They are high speed tools, like modern chainsaws. They take off little bits in rapid succession, providing a smooth, fast cut. At slow speeds, they grab, jerk, and jump around, leaving a rougher surface.

Round file. I prefer one size bigger then recommended, but that’s just me.
Sit down and wear out a couple chains learning how to sharpen them.

file out under the tooth first, take out the gullet, and the file the cutting edge from underneath. Down, back, and up.

Bucking Billy Ray had a good video on YouTube about it.
He’s right
I really think those rpms are way to high for grinding metal teeth. It would be way better at somewhere around 1000 to 1200 rims. The stones would last longer.
Not even close. You're confusing cutting with grinding. With sanding/grinding steel, especially high carbon/tool steel, you need really high rpm to get good results. So long as the stone is balanced well, run it as fast as you can. Beyond that, it's about matching the pressure with the type of abrasive material being used so that it breaks down (stays sharp) at the correct rate, and limiting the amount of time so that you're not over heating the steel. Unless you've really rocked the chain, it only takes a second or so on each tooth to sharpen a pretty dull tooth. Since the chain likely has some bar oil residue on it, the tooth will start smoking long before you start affecting its temper.
Post some pictures when you do!

I was going to buy a stump vice to do this. I was thinking I'll take out one of the bolts that holds the bed liner on the tailgate and use the same threading for a bolt on the end of the vise. That would make it easy to put it in and take it out. Then I found this vice for $13 at Lee Valley

I'll drill through the center of this and put a bolt in that will go into one of those same holes on the tailgate. (I'll make so I can tighten with the scrench - alter the head if needed).

Thanks for the inspiration. I've been wanting something simple to hold the saw more steady on the tailgate and think this will work great.
Was sharpening the saw today and realized I never came back with pics... It works great. I bought a nut driver to keep in the truck tool bow where chainsaws and files (and vise) are so it is easy on and easy off.


Sharpening my Chainsaw Saw's are "actually personal." I have been sharpening Saws 40+ years. I can feel it in my hand and know when to move on.

In my experience if "your chain" is so Jacked Up that you need to spend hours to repair it, throw it away, make a new one and get the F back to work.
I just hand file with a bare file now. The guides are OK when you are starting out, but eventually they get in the way and stop you seeing what is going on. Watch a lot of videos and study the side and top profile of a sharp tooth. I do use a raker depth guage and then a flat file.
I learned in grade school to sharpen by hand, make the tooth shine, get a feel for the stroke as gentle pressure cuts the tooth.
Never used any other product, but we only did 4 or 5 saws, it was a tool, like an ax or shovel, not something we collected.
So the job was easy, part of cleaning the saw after use.