Put a 16" on the 5000 and a 20" on the 562. Both will handle much better. It's simple to overbuck on the occasional larger tree.
What's with the 562XP?
- Thread starter clarksvilleal
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spindrift7mm
Changing the World One Saw at a time !
Clarksvilleal, a big thumbs up on buying a new saw at 68 ! At near 62 my young days of bar fight,bullriding and wild women are now paying me back. Takes 2 cups of coffee and a hour of hobbling every morning, but the wife asks the same question every day" How do you feel this morning". Thanks to you I now have the answer " ROBUST by God ROBUST" !!! You've made my day. Ken
clarksvilleal
ArboristSite Member
Why, thankee, Ken! It's all in the mind, I say - well, OK, not all, but mostly.
Heck, last year I cut down a couple of 75' - 80' poplars that were about 27" at the base - though I had one of my sons riding shotgun just to be safe - i.e., he could pick up the pieces if I screwed up and wound up under the tree. That was after cutting down the 40 - 50' 24" cherries. I also dug ten 4' deep by 10" diameter post holes for vineyard trellis posts by hand, lifted 12' 4x6 posts into the holes, then mixed about 15 80-lb. bags of sakrete in a wheelbarrow to shovel into the holes before backfilling. Cut and split 4 cords of firewood and chipped and shredded the small stuff into a mountain of mulch, which I later spread onto the garden.
Then, in the fall I harvested 700 lbs. of grapes from my young vineyard, crushed, fermented and pressed it into 60 gallons of new wine, some of which I've been drinking ever since. (Now, that there may be the key to my keeping' this up into my 80's, feelin' no pain. Whaddya think?)
Heck, last year I cut down a couple of 75' - 80' poplars that were about 27" at the base - though I had one of my sons riding shotgun just to be safe - i.e., he could pick up the pieces if I screwed up and wound up under the tree. That was after cutting down the 40 - 50' 24" cherries. I also dug ten 4' deep by 10" diameter post holes for vineyard trellis posts by hand, lifted 12' 4x6 posts into the holes, then mixed about 15 80-lb. bags of sakrete in a wheelbarrow to shovel into the holes before backfilling. Cut and split 4 cords of firewood and chipped and shredded the small stuff into a mountain of mulch, which I later spread onto the garden.
Then, in the fall I harvested 700 lbs. of grapes from my young vineyard, crushed, fermented and pressed it into 60 gallons of new wine, some of which I've been drinking ever since. (Now, that there may be the key to my keeping' this up into my 80's, feelin' no pain. Whaddya think?)
goosegunner
ArboristSite Operative
I agree with the 20" bar. Nice length to carry when walking. That is what I run on my 7900, works fine for large trees. Have cut 30"+ oaks. Just have to plan a little.
gg
gg
The 562's will do pretty well with a 24'' bar, especially if you use a skip chain. That combo works .....even buried in Oak. Impressive.
bigbluram
master of destruction
And extra screws for all that vibrate out and an extra carb when the autotune acts up. These are not if but when with the 562.If you are dealing on the 562XP, see if they will throw in a spare set of bearings.
ktoom
ArboristSite Guru
I second that... Finally made the trip to his shop yesterday. Great guy to deal with!!!
Sean80
ArboristSite Member
I've never used a 372, but I can say I really enjoy my 562xp. I also considered the 372, but the 562 just felt nicer in my hands. It cuts everything I put it into and I have never regretted my purchase. I also use it up in the tree a fair bit for blocking down bigger stuff.
spindrift7mm
Changing the World One Saw at a time !
I think go as hard as you can, as long as you can cause you can rest when it's over. Good luck with the new saw (I'd get the light one) Ken
Another member of "The Old Geezer's Group" here. I'll be 78 this yr., & I got the 562 for the same reasons as the OP. For about 30yrs. I had a Jonsereds 920 (87.9cc & 17.5lb powerhead) with 24 & 34in Total bars. No longer comfortable with the weight & power but still wanting something that could properly handle a 24in bar, I sold it & bought a 562. I had all of the EL46 carb problems X2, but it is all sorted out now, & I am very happy with the saw. FWIW, it handles the 24in B&C with plenty of authority using full comp chain. I have buried it in maple & oak as well as honey locust, & it cut everything without a whimper or needing to be feathered. It also puts out plenty of oil!! There is no question that the 372 will have more guts, but the 562 has enough with some to spare for me. After being confident that the carb problems were behind (it now wears an EL48), I opted to replace the 24in Husky bar (2.75lbs) with a 24in Tsumura (2.5lbs). This made a HUGE difference in handling! With the Husky bar it was somewhat nose heavy. With the Tsumura the balance is almost perfect. I also have the 20in Husky Techlite which is ideal for lightness & handling, but the Tsumura balances so well the weight difference is barely noticeable.
spindrift7mm
Changing the World One Saw at a time !
I like longer length lightweight bars for reach. My ported 026Pro w/28" Lwt Oregon bar allows me to cut live oak all day and survive. A short bar and my back is done at lunch time. I run the same size Lwt bars on all my woodcutting saws, makes life simpler. Hey you old fart post some pics of you and your saw. Inspire us young,,,,er guys ! KenAnother member of "The Old Geezer's Group" here. I'll be 78 this yr., & I got the 562 for the same reasons as the OP. For about 30yrs. I had a Jonsereds 920 (87.9cc & 17.5lb powerhead) with 24 & 34in Total bars. No longer comfortable with the weight & power but still wanting something that could properly handle a 24in bar, I sold it & bought a 562. I had all of the EL46 carb problems X2, but it is all sorted out now, & I am very happy with the saw. FWIW, it handles the 24in B&C with plenty of authority using full comp chain. I have buried it in maple & oak as well as honey locust, & it cut everything without a whimper or needing to be feathered. It also puts out plenty of oil!! There is no question that the 372 will have more guts, but the 562 has enough with some to spare for me. After being confident that the carb problems were behind (it now wears an EL48), I opted to replace the 24in Husky bar (2.75lbs) with a 24in Tsumura (2.5lbs). This made a HUGE difference in handling! With the Husky bar it was somewhat nose heavy. With the Tsumura the balance is almost perfect. I also have the 20in Husky Techlite which is ideal for lightness & handling, but the Tsumura balances so well the weight difference is barely noticeable.
I'm not very photogenic!! The saw will have to do!??!
clarksvilleal
ArboristSite Member
OK, these are going to sound like stupid questions to you guys, but (as I'm sure it's clear to all, given that the only saw I own now is a Redmax G5000) I'm no chainsaw aficionado. I have felled a fair number of small to mid-size trees and cut lots of firewood with an old Echo and the G5000, but don't really know all the ins and outs of chainsaw, bar and chain technology.
So, the first question is about chain gauge and pitch. I believe the 562XP requires a 3/8" chain pitch, but depending on the bar it could be .050 or .058 gauge. From my research in this forum I gather that gauge is m/l arbitrary - i.e., neither of those gauges has any advantage over the other; just a matter of preference, availability at a good price in your area, etc. The standard 20" and 24" Husky bars for the 562XP are available in either .050 or .058 gauge. Any reason not to go with .050?
Second, regarding the chain type: I'm currently using Oregon 20LPX078G chisel chain on my Redmax G5000. Looking at the Oregon Selector for the 3/8"/.050 combo with the (hopefully) soon-to-be-mine 562XP, I am now faced with many choices of (full-comp) Oregon chains: 72LGX (Super Guard), 72CLX (Super Guard Square Ground), 72LPX (Super 70), and 72DP (S-70). Don't know the pros and cons of each of these. I just want a good fast-cutting full chisel chain, having had enough wood-cutting & tree-felling hours under my belt that I don't need or want low-kickback chain. Any recommendation as to which chain type I should start with (not interested in skip chain yet, though I may try that later).
As Saw Troll pointed out to me lately it takes a splined drum swap to be able to run the 0.325 chain with sensible drive teeth. In Europe the 560 comes standard that way (I only wandered around the Sweden site not sure about the Europe part). The kit is a little less than $30. It is on the illustrated parts list for the saw. They rate 20,21,22LPX for up to 62cc. There is skip .325 but only in 0.050 gauge.
sunfish
Fish Head
.050 or .058 > you are correct, go with what ever is easiest to get. I run all .058 here.
LPX or LGX both good chisel chain, DP is a semi chisel, also good and will stay sharp longer, but wont cut quite as fast. Pick one, or all three and go cut wood.
LPX or LGX both good chisel chain, DP is a semi chisel, also good and will stay sharp longer, but wont cut quite as fast. Pick one, or all three and go cut wood.
clarksvilleal
ArboristSite Member
OK, thanks for the tip, Franny. So you are saying I could actually use .325 chain with the 562XP, right? I guess a reason to do that would be to be able to use the 20" chains I already have for the Redmax with the 562XP. How hard is it to change the splined drum? Do you need any special tools? And if I did that it looks from the Oregon chain selector that I give up flexibility in the types of chain I can use, at least if I stay with Oregon chain, since the list only two choices for .325: 20LPX and 20BPX.
Also, does 3/8" chain cut faster than the equivalent .325 chain, which has the cutters at a slightly closer spacing?
sunfish
Fish Head
No way I'd run .325 chain on a 562. Yes, it would cut slower.
clarksvilleal
ArboristSite Member
OK, that settles that. My 562 will stay 3/8. Too bad; I've got a dozen or so 20" .325 LPX chains.
What about square chisel - e.g., 72CLX or 72CKX (skip), vs. round-ground chisel? Pros & Cons? I've never used square-ground chisel chain. Plus I always sharpen my own chains by hand, and I recall having read somewhere that it is more difficult to hand-sharpen square-ground chisel chain.
