When, if ever, are the 590xp and 595xp saws coming out?

[Big_Wood]

yes, the 575 may be 6203's too. it's been more than 10 minutes since i looked at them, so there ya go. and yes, i know you're supposed to use the proprietary $35 bearings, but these saws came in a basket and i'm just trying to figure out what happened to them. i'm sure the bearings on one are standard industrial sealed units, better suited to a conveyor belt than 10k rpm big saw. the other saw, you're going to laugh, i think someone straight gassed it and then threw it under the truck so the boss would think it got run over by accident. both bearings were failed, exhauast side of the piston and cylinder tore up. the cases are a total loss too, broken.

anyway, what i'm hearing from you is that the 390 may have had the correct bearings. i was just curious.

Yep, 100% OEM for sure. I have 3 all OEM and only one didn't have a spun PTO main. Sadly, that one blew it's big end last week lol so now it's got another crank in it that had been spun. Loctite 620 to the rescue! Lol I'm just happy it didn't wipe out the top end. 575 has 6202's like a 50cc saw.

 

[heyduke]

Yep, 100% OEM for sure. I have 3 all OEM and only one didn't have a spun PTO main. Sadly, that one blew it's big end last week lol so now it's got another crank in it that had been spun. Loctite 620 to the rescue! Lol I'm just happy it didn't wipe out the top end. 575 has 6202's like a 50cc saw.

i've got a 385 and a 394, both have been rock solid but i probably don't abuse them as much as you. i've hjad my 575 for about five years now. it came to me as a county fire dept. vent saw that got tossed in the dumpster with two others. it had a failed ignition module. i think that was due to overheating. the whole saw was caked, inside and out with tar. i ordered a new module for it from baileys but it didn't fit. i took the module out of the 385 and used it in the 575 and put the baileys module in the 385 whcih had more clearance. the 575 has a ton of hard hours on it but runs great. i'm thinking of switching to 40:1 after disecting these two 575 that followed me home.

 

[Andyshine77]

The 395 is likely Husqvarna's most reliable saw right now. My hope/guess is their will be only one saw to replace the 390 and 395. Basically a saw the size of the 390 but with more power.

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[heyduke]

Yep, 100% OEM for sure. I have 3 all OEM and only one didn't have a spun PTO main. Sadly, that one blew it's big end last week lol so now it's got another crank in it that had been spun. Loctite 620 to the rescue! Lol I'm just happy it didn't wipe out the top end. 575 has 6202's like a 50cc saw.

do you have any ideas about why you're tearing up bottom ends. is it common with the kind of work you're doing? i have a an old 394 that i bought on sale, $700 from madsens just before the 395's came out. it must have been more than 15 years ago. i loaned it to my partner for a job when his 066 was down, and it never came back, which was ok, he's still using it. i bought another one.

The 395 is likely Husqvarna's most reliable saw right now. My hope/guess is their will be only one saw to replace the 390 and 395. Basically a saw the size of the 390 but with more power.
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do you think the 395 is more robust than the 394? if so, why? i've heard a lot of anecdotes about bad bearings in 575's but the only damage i've seen has been from abuse. i think my 575 would pretty much keep up with my 385. i'll have to do some measurement some time. i mostly run it with a 20" bar since pinners are just about all the trees left around here.

 

[Big_Wood]

do you have any ideas about why you're tearing up bottom ends. is it common with the kind of work you're doing? i have a an old 394 that i bought on sale, $700 from madsens just before the 395's came out. it must have been more than 15 years ago. i loaned it to my partner for a job when his 066 was down, and it never came back, which was ok, he's still using it. i bought another one.



do you think the 395 is more robust than the 394? if so, why? i've heard a lot of anecdotes about bad bearings in 575's but the only damage i've seen has been from abuse. i think my 575 would pretty much keep up with my 385. i'll have to do some measurement some time. i mostly run it with a 20" bar since pinners are just about all the trees left around here.

it's just regular use. alot of people here who own 390's likely don't know that they have a spun PTO main. it goes unnoticed until the saw takes a ****. guys here who burn 4 tanks a year would not even be able to tell and the saw would still last them. professionals run 7-10 tanks a day through them so they don't last once spun. a tell tale sign is a 385/390 developing a lean lope at idle over time. when they are really bad you can wiggle the PTO crank end like the bearing is cooked but it's actually just the clearence in between the bearing race and shaft because of spinning so long. 394/395 are the same kinda reliablility although i have seen a few 394's spin a main but never a 395. i'll take a 395 for the intake setup. completely different bottom end then a 385/390 though. a 575 might seem as strong as a 385 with a 20" BUT put a longer bar on them to see that they don't even compare. i used to choose the 385/390 for the stiffer AV and bigger bearing thinking it would hold up to more abuse then a 372 but what's the point in having a bigger bearing if they just spin on the crank. the 372 IMO is a much better design but i still love the way those 390's run and handle when they are running good.

 

[Andyshine77]

do you have any ideas about why you're tearing up bottom ends. is it common with the kind of work you're doing? i have a an old 394 that i bought on sale, $700 from madsens just before the 395's came out. it must have been more than 15 years ago. i loaned it to my partner for a job when his 066 was down, and it never came back, which was ok, he's still using it. i bought another one.



do you think the 395 is more robust than the 394? if so, why? i've heard a lot of anecdotes about bad bearings in 575's but the only damage i've seen has been from abuse. i think my 575 would pretty much keep up with my 385. i'll have to do some measurement some time. i mostly run it with a 20" bar since pinners are just about all the trees left around here.

I'm not very familiar with the 394, but I do believe the 395 is based on it, so they should be similar when it comes to durability.

 

[Big_Wood]

by the way, the one 390 i have that had the most play and couldn't be fixed with loctite/new bearing has been running for over 100 tanks with the bearing spot welded to the crank. i've checked it over and the bottom end is nice and tight. IMO it's a last resort but a solid fix. i just loctite 620 first to seal the gap to prevent and air leak then do a 4 point spot weld jobber on the inner race. i swear, it might even be better then new lol

 

[heyduke]

it's just regular use. alot of people here who own 390's likely don't know that they have a spun PTO main. it goes unnoticed until the saw takes a ****. a tell tale sign is a 385/390 developing a lean lope at idle over time. when they are really bad you can wiggle the PTO crank end like the bearing is cooked but it's actually just the clearence in between the bearing race and shaft because of spinning so long. 394/395 are the same kinda reliablility although i have seen a few 394's spin a main but never a 395. i'll take a 395 for the intake setup. completely different bottom end then a 385/390 though. a 575 might seem as strong as a 385 with a 20" BUT put a longer bar on them to see that they don't even compare. i used to choose the 385/390 for the stiffer AV and bigger bearing thinking it would hold up to more abuse then a 372 but what's the point in having a bigger bearing if they just spin on the crank. the 372 IMO is a much better design but i still love the way those 390's run and handle when they are running good.

so, i'm wondering if the problem is at least partly due to the pto bearing seals. i like the design with a separate seal. it should work even if the inner race is a little leaky. i've been working on an old echo cs-8000. simple as an axe, generous oil pump, not much plastic, last forever if you take care of it. i use larger bars on the 575, mainly if we have to wreck a big cottonwood. the 575 is ok up to 32". the 394 is better though. i've never had a 372 and only one 371 that only lasted about a month. it was the first year they came out. mainly, i like a big power head with the shortest bar that will get thru the biggest stem. 80cc is a good size. 70cc is ok.

 

[heyduke]

by the way, the one 390 i have that had the most play and couldn't be fixed with loctite/new bearing has been running for over 100 tanks with the bearing spot welded to the crank. i've checked it over and the bottom end is nice and tight. IMO it's a last resort but a solid fix. i just loctite 620 first to seal the gap to prevent and air leak then do a 4 point spot weld jobber on the inner race. i swear, it might even be better then new lol

makes me wonder if the inner race is overheating and causing it to have too much slop. at 12k rpms all kinds of stuff can happen and theres really not much cooling the inner race. the outer race is cooled by a very conductive chunk of magnesium. i have seen damaged crankshafts. just brainstorming.

 

[Big_Wood]

stihls proprietary bearings are similar except that they take a regular seal that pressed into the outer race but seals on the shaft. i'm not convinced the integrated seal is the issue but ya never know. all i know is that if they made that crank an extra quarter thou bigger the problem would go away. measure the inner race of the flywheel side and the crankshaft and then do the same for the PTO side. husqvarna know what's going on and for some reason the interference fit on the PTO side is not as tight. it's a fixable problem that hasn't been fixed in 15 years which leads me to believe it is purposely done for some reason. i have called husky and told them everything years ago and they still do the same thing. it's irritating. husqvarna had to make some money back. those 2100's/288's running forever almost bankrupt them

 

[heyduke]

stihls proprietary bearings are similar except that they take a regular seal that pressed into the outer race but seals on the shaft. i'm not convinced the integrated seal is the issue but ya never know. all i know is that if they made that crank an extra quarter thou bigger the problem would go away. measure the inner race of the flywheel side and the crankshaft and then do the same for the PTO side. husqvarna know what's going on and for some reason the interference fit on the PTO side is not as tight. it's a fixable problem that hasn't been fixed in 15 years which leads me to believe it is purposely done for some reason. i have called husky and told them everything years ago and they still do the same thing. it's irritating. husqvarna had to make some money back. those 2100's/288's running forever almost bankrupt them

the crank on of one of my 575's has -0F embossed in it. i think that means they want you to put it on dry ice before trying to install the bearings. it also looks like it has some locking compound on it. it was really hard to get the pto bearing off the shaft. i ended up taking the crank stuffer off in pieces, heating the bearing with a torch a torch and pulling it with a case splitter and c-clamp. the flywheel side was just starting to spin on the crank. there's a little damage to the shaft from the inner race.

i have to agree with you regarding the shaft dimensions. i'd rather buy an assembled crank with bearings if it would last long enuff to pay for itself.

 

[heyduke]

stihls proprietary bearings are similar except that they take a regular seal that pressed into the outer race but seals on the shaft. i'm not convinced the integrated seal is the issue but ya never know. all i know is that if they made that crank an extra quarter thou bigger the problem would go away. measure the inner race of the flywheel side and the crankshaft and then do the same for the PTO side. husqvarna know what's going on and for some reason the interference fit on the PTO side is not as tight. it's a fixable problem that hasn't been fixed in 15 years which leads me to believe it is purposely done for some reason. i have called husky and told them everything years ago and they still do the same thing. it's irritating. husqvarna had to make some money back. those 2100's/288's running forever almost bankrupt them

probably time to quit beating this horse, but... we used to repair shafts with a eutectic plasma process. we'd cut down a damaged shaft by finely threading it on a lathe. then mount a eutectic plasma sprayer (kinda like a plasma cutter) on the tool holder of the lathe. instead of cutting the shaft it would build up a layer of special alloy which was then machined to the exact dimensions specified, on the same lathe. we paid for that rig with the first job. that being said, i suspect your technique of welding the shaft to the inner race might be a money maker. i suspect the cause is thermal and once the shaft/race starts to slip things get hotter and out of hand. could be that the locktite is makeing thngs worse by introducing a non-conducive layer... or not.

 

[Big_Wood]

probably time to quit beating this horse, but... we used to repair shafts with a eutectic plasma process. we'd cut down a damaged shaft by finely threading it on a lathe. then mount a eutectic plasma sprayer (kinda like a plasma cutter) on the tool holder of the lathe. instead of cutting the shaft it would build up a layer of special alloy which was then machined to the exact dimensions specified, on the same lathe. we paid for that rig with the first job. that being said, i suspect your technique of welding the shaft to the inner race might be a money maker. i suspect the cause is thermal and once the shaft/race starts to slip things get hotter and out of hand. could be that the locktite is makeing thngs worse by introducing a non-conducive layer... or not.

the loctite is working well on 2 saws i have where the bearings were a snug fit. they could still be removed by hand but at least there was no play. the loctite is working great so far. the one i welded had lots of plat even with a new bearing. it was either what i did or a new crank but i find it extremely hard to throw out a 390 crank with a healthy big end.

 

[heyduke]

the loctite is working well on 2 saws i have where the bearings were a snug fit. they could still be removed by hand but at least there was no play. the loctite is working great so far. the one i welded had lots of plat even with a new bearing. it was either what i did or a new crank but i find it extremely hard to throw out a 390 crank with a healthy big end.

yeah, if an inner race is so loose that you can slip it off by hand, you probably need a new crank, or maybe a new chainsaw makes more money sense. what has me bothered is that when the saw is new it apparentlly has a tight fit. so it seems like something is making the race spin on the shaft and wearing it down. gotta agree that a larger diameter shaft might be the solution but maybe getting a new bearing on that larger shaft might be a challenge, like heat the bearing to 300f and chill the crank on dry ice.

 

[blsnelling]

575 has 6202's like a 50cc saw.

As does the 372.

 

[blsnelling]

I wonder if this problem is accentuated by users running too tight of a chain? Maybe too lower of rakers?

 

[SawTroll]

About 5 years after the 572 comes out. Lol!

I don't think so - but that is mostly/only based on rumors.

 

[Big_Wood]

I wonder if this problem is accentuated by users running too tight of a chain? Maybe too lower of rakers?

or the users who haven't noticed it only run a few tanks a year

 

[heyduke]

or the users who haven't noticed it only run a few tanks a year

the more i think about it, i wonder if the problem is just a crank that isn't stout enuff, like maybe you don't need a few ten thousandths, but another millimeter or two and a bigger bearing. not many hombres understand the challenges of the pacific northwest. my old place in the northbay, 20 miles north of san francisco had redwoods and douglas firs that were huge at the base, like seven feet or more.. if you were dropping those all day it could be hard on a saw. people think doughlas firs and redwoods are "softwood." old growth trees are hard like iron, especially the ones growing on a north slopes. they aren't too easy on hombres either.

 

[IyaMan]

not many hombres understand the challenges of the pacific northwest. my old place in the northbay, 20 miles north of san francisco had redwoods and douglas firs that were huge at the base, like seven feet or more.. if you were dropping those all day it could be hard on a saw.

Yes, that'd be hard on any saw, and certainly wear on any bearing. But as mentioned, the recommended max bar length for a 390xp is only 28". But for what you're saying, one would be using a much longer than that, probably 36". While the 390 would be able to pull that much chain through a tree, why would Husqvarna put such a low limit on the bar? Even the 576AT has a max bar length of 32" and its 15cc and almost 1hp smaller!

I'd say the shorter bar recommendation must have to do with the inboard clutch and too weak of a bearing for it (or some arrangement in there). A longer bar when coupled with too tight a chain pulling through a fat trunk day after day will put pressure on any bearing in any saw, but with an inboard clutch the sprocket is that much farther from the engine, creating increased cantilever pressure on the PTO bearing as opposed to an outboard clutch/inboard sprocket. With such pressure, the bearing and/or set up on the 390 clearly has a limit that is lower than the engine's power limit. (so the immediate solution would be to stop running such long bars on the saw)

So again, I'd wonder if they will continue with the inboard clutch if going to a 590 (I think the 390 is the only big husky to have one), or will a thorough redesign be needed (as westcoaster90 is certainly calling for) to handle a better bearing. Obviously an inboard clutch is possible for a big saw, as one only needs to look at an 880Stihl. Husky just hasn't mastered the inboard clutch yet.