Which carb MS200 rear handle saw

[dls]

I really am getting too old for this stuff and the chemo makes me too weak so I am trying to get my MS200 rear handle saw going again. I think the carb ruined the piston and cylinder. I kept having to open up the screws till it finally got to where it would run great till I cut a few minutes then it would die till it cooled off. Piston was scored. I put in a new piston, cylinder, pulse line, fuel filter, muffler, 020 fuel tank since the muffler cracked and melted the bottom out of the old one, new clutch cover to replace melted one, crank seals and a genuine stihl part number 1129-120-0653 E126C carb. It would not start. I would crank till I got out of breath, go rest, then try again. It flooded. Good spark. Drained gas out of cylinder and put on the old crap knock-of carb. It would try to start on choke, try to start after choke but never could get it to run. Screw settings at 3/4 and 1 turn. I cannot believe the brand new carb is junk but I've gotten junk before. I'm trying to figure out what carb to get. Maybe this one is not right. On line, I find almost all the carbs are S126A, S126B, or S127A-C. Most knock offs are S126B replacements it says. I sold all my rear handle saws else I would try a carb off one of them. Dealers around here are becoming a joke with a standard line on almost any part "parts are no-longer available for that old of saw or it could take up to 6 weeks" despite Crader distributing warehouse being 15 miles from here. The serial number on this saw is 162835880+. I really need to get it working. I used to use the 084 till I got tired, then rotate through the 5) 044's till they were all dull or I was tired, then this dandy little MS200 my wife bought me. By then it was dark and I was beat anyway. 20 minutes on the 044's I am too shaky to work so I want to get this 200 going again. I just rebuilt one of the O44's and it eats dead oak and ash faster than I can move the saw. What flippin carbs will work on this 200 and it hold together? Thanks. I forgot my password but this site has been valuable to me for years. Cheers all.d

 

[dls]

I really am getting too old for this stuff and the chemo makes me too weak so I am trying to get my MS200 rear handle saw going again. I think the carb ruined the piston and cylinder. I kept having to open up the screws till it finally got to where it would run great till I cut a few minutes then it would die till it cooled off. Piston was scored. I put in a new piston, cylinder, pulse line, fuel filter, muffler, 020 fuel tank since the muffler cracked and melted the bottom out of the old one, new clutch cover to replace melted one, crank seals and a genuine stihl part number 1129-120-0653 E126C carb. It would not start. I would crank till I got out of breath, go rest, then try again. It flooded. Good spark. Drained gas out of cylinder and put on the old crap knock-of carb. It would try to start on choke, try to start after choke but never could get it to run. Screw settings at 3/4 and 1 turn. I cannot believe the brand new carb is junk but I've gotten junk before. I'm trying to figure out what carb to get. Maybe this one is not right. On line, I find almost all the carbs are S126A, S126B, or S127A-C. Most knock offs are S126B replacements it says. I sold all my rear handle saws else I would try a carb off one of them. Dealers around here are becoming a joke with a standard line on almost any part "parts are no-longer available for that old of saw or it could take up to 6 weeks" despite Crader distributing warehouse being 15 miles from here. The serial number on this saw is 162835880+. I really need to get it working. I used to use the 084 till I got tired, then rotate through the 5) 044's till they were all dull or I was tired, then this dandy little MS200 my wife bought me. By then it was dark and I was beat anyway. 20 minutes on the 044's I am too shaky to work so I want to get this 200 going again. I just rebuilt one of the O44's and it eats dead oak and ash faster than I can move the saw. What flippin carbs will work on this 200 and it hold together? Thanks. I forgot my password but this site has been valuable to me for years. Cheers all.d

Genuine new stihl carb was S126C. Sorry, hit the wrong key.

 

[CR888]

Sounds like you have an air leak, I'd get a pressure/vac test. OEM carbs are available through any dealer or site sponsor Definatedave. AM carbs can be hit & miss, some are great others just OK or no good. The OEM carbs are Zamma branded and about 5-10 models were used through the life of the ms200 series, most had accelerator pumps and a couple did not. If you have an air leak you will repeat the damage done if not fixed. Good luck sounds like you need that saw running reliably.

 

[dls]

Sounds like you have an air leak, I'd get a pressure/vac test. OEM carbs are available through any dealer or site sponsor Definatedave. AM carbs can be hit & miss, some are great others just OK or no good. The OEM carbs are Zamma branded and about 5-10 models were used through the life of the ms200 series, most had accelerator pumps and a couple did not. If you have an air leak you will repeat the damage done if not fixed. Good luck sounds like you need that saw running reliably.

Very reason I put on a new manifold, new pulse hose, new crank seals and a new OEM $140 stihl carb from the stihl dealer. Had to order it all. 6 dealers within 4 miles of me and none ever have parts and take forever to get. How would a vacuum leak cause it to flood gas? It flooded on the new carb bad enough that I took out the plug and poured the gas out of the cylinder. d

 

[Ketchup]

Check you carb and linkages. Sounds
like the choke is stuck (or the metering needle).

Doing a pressure test is a really good idea if you replaced all those parts. If you botched a seal install or have a leaking boot no carb will solve your problem.

You're right to think it probably isn't the carb. Triple check everything else first. Then open up the metering side and see what the needle looks like.

 

[dls]

Check you carb and linkages. Sounds
like the choke is stuck (or the metering needle).

Doing a pressure test is a really good idea if you replaced all those parts. If you botched a seal install or have a leaking boot no carb will solve your problem.

You're right to think it probably isn't the carb. Triple check everything else first. Then open up the metering side and see what the needle looks like.

I already checked linkages, even took the plastic 90° filter attachment off to look. Boot should be good. It is brand new. I've owned over 100 Stihls over 40 years. First was an 09. Never did a vacuum test on any but I guess I will block everything off and see. I asked at dealer for a check and he told me 3 hours at $56 an hour to check it. Since carb is new, I did not want to take it apart due to warranty but I am told now there is no warranty because it was installed. I've not owned anything but Stihl since the 70's but thinking something else might be in order now. Maybe cheap throw away saws. I could set my stihls down in the highway after a tornado while I cleared cut trees in pouring rain and they would never miss a beat; idle forever till I was ready to pick them up and go again. Now it seems problems and parts access is getting tough. Everyone has 50 new saws in stock and $50 5 gallon cans of pre made gas but no parts or service.

 

[dls]

I already checked linkages, even took the plastic 90° filter attachment off to look. Boot should be good. It is brand new. I've owned over 100 Stihls over 40 years. First was an 09. Never did a vacuum test on any but I guess I will block everything off and see. I asked at dealer for a check and he told me 3 hours at $56 an hour to check it. Since carb is new, I did not want to take it apart due to warranty but I am told now there is no warranty because it was installed. I've not owned anything but Stihl since the 70's but thinking something else might be in order now. Maybe cheap throw away saws. I could set my stihls down in the highway after a tornado while I cleared cut trees in pouring rain and they would never miss a beat; idle forever till I was ready to pick them up and go again. Now it seems problems and parts access is getting tough. Everyone has 50 new saws in stock and $50 5 gallon cans of pre made gas but no parts or service.

Finally tracked down the carb by the saw serial number on the saw. It takes a CIQ-S127D Zama carb. Stihl number 1129-120-0654. Takes a week or 2 to get one. superceded many times. $73.