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daddieslilgirl

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this is kinda on and off topic but i have a bet going and need help! ready? isnt it true that no matter how you are cutting (and i dont mean the tip everyone does that and knows the potential for kick back, its almost a given) that the saw will and can kick back no matter how SAFE you are? or how the saw is positioned? the potential is there at ANY time right? no matter how good you are! oh please tell me im right! ive seen it happen to newbies and oldies, but i have a "my choice" if im right in this bet! this all started because if i HAVE to cut im right side up for the notch using my left hand and im rt handed, and i can use either or to fall it( dont ask it just works that way) does that make any sense? anyway thanks for humoring me! (and the drinks are on me lol)!!! :dizzy:
 
Sorry, but from what I gather of your thinking your wrong.

The only time kickback can occur is if the upper quadrant of the tip of the bar contacts wood. The potential is there, but unless it contacts something then it cannot and will not happen, no questions there, its simple physics.

If that part of the bar never contacts wood, then there is NO chance for kickback.

Kickback isnt a spontanious combustion thing, its very easy to prevent instead of opperating the saw by switching up your hands, which I have never understood why its better to prepare for it instead of preventing it.

It has never happened to me.
 
John, it would push back, but wouldnt throw the tip back untill the corner. Keeping the saw from pushing out is simple, and in my case it is rare for only the chain to be pinched.



Butch, Gulp? Brewski?
 
I don't know about you guys but I am big enough a fellow that there isn't a saw made that can push me back. Of course I don't one hand my saws and I try to keep the powerhead against the log being cut. As for push back if the sticks it seems to stall out or the clutch does it's job and slips...
 
ok ok ok i give up gracefully! thanks for your input, and if there was a teeny weeny way to wiggle out of this someone named john gave it to me! theres a fine line here...but anyway thanks guys now ill be kissing his feet forever..unless i dont show him your answers!!!! lol
 
Ratliff-you must be huge and powerful to be able to stop a full throttle kickback from a big saw (394, 066 etc). I've been told I'm pretty strong for my weight and height but I never ever put myself in a bucking position to find out. Buck safe, always stand to one side of the saw, even if it means bucking lefthanded. Sometimes I buck one handed, but it doesn't matter cause if the saw kicks back, I'm not there looking at the chain.
 
well maybe i wont lose this bet after all!!! (big evil i told you so grin) clearance you are saying a saw can kick back right? at any time??? i need a definate yes to prove this point!!! mind you its a friendly bet, just something that came up in conversation. but darn it i hate being wrong!!!!
 
The only way for you to find out is to do some testing! But no you are wrong. The only time a saw will kick is when the upper part of the nose hits wood. Mind you this is dramaticly increased with an agressive(low cut drags) chain. try plunging with a sharp chain let the bar fet about 6 inches into the wood and let go og the pressure on your handle bar. It will feel and sound like your bar is getting beat the $hit out of by 2 jack hammers in there. That is kick back. Now try cutting a log normally with the length of the bar, no kick!
 
I have been thrown a few times, and pulled a few times.
You can get a kick out of tension etc.
This you would know if you study chainsaw safety on Husky's web as recommended.

If you say you can take all kicks from any saw, you are very wrong.
And will get a ugly surprice one day.
The most common mistake is the tip, but that does not mean it is the only one.
There is a huge difference between the chain bouncing and a kick.
I have seen 130kg big boy's get airborne with a 15" bar, saws that throw them self 20 meters from logger, all for careless operators.

CC is not the most important it is the rpm/kg, PLAY SAFE.
 
Ratliftlogging just said he could handle the pushback from any saw, not the kickback (but i think that is what he meant).

Mange, I am hard pressed to believe that a 260 pound (130kg closest conversion) was thrown 70 feet from a log from a powerhead that makes maybe 13hp TOPS (built 088 or 3120). Dunno what chain bounce is.

People, yall are still missing the point that kickback can only be caused when the tip rockets off wood. The reaction forces are simply not there unless the tip is in the wood. The tip can pull of push itself into a kickback position, but the tip is the ONLY thing that can kick.


All kickbacks are preventable
 
True that all is preventable, but can you honestly say you never ever will have a kick......
The easiest way to prevent kickback is to grab a chair and a beer and watch the wood become soil..... Better play safe, bring a six pack.

Not all things a predictable, if you think that i believe you are up for a big surprise one day.

I have seen very strange things happen when cutting elm trees for ex.

By the way, i was not to bring this up, i really tried not to, but I must.

When I do a bore cut i stick the saw straight in and let it drop on its own weight, even hold back sometimes.
Is this impossible?
There is many clips here showing bore cuts, none of them bounce up and down, the only time i encountered this problem is when I did a bore cut in a tree that had foreign objects in it.
 
I didnt say that I never will, I said I never have (thought of some exceptions when showing groundies what kickback is and how it happens) had it occur to me. Can I say it never will, of course not.

I dont think all things are predictable, kickback is, the information is always there for the cutter to observe.

About the plunge cut, I have no clue what your talking about, or the point your making.
 
i talked about it in an earlier post. Mange, if you are cutting with an aggressive chain, you will need to help the saw along till you get the bar in the wood enough so it can guide it self. if there is any space on either side of the bar it will like i said go crazy in there. I am not making this up. I am bacing this on a felling plunge cut done horizontally of course so things are a bit different. Plunging vertically is very easy compared to plunging into a tree
 
I agree with people that say that "there's a differance between kickback and pushback", and "The tip has to contact wood for a kickback".

Lumberjack said:
People, yall are still missing the point that kickback can only be caused when the tip rockets off wood. The reaction forces are simply not there unless the tip is in the wood. The tip can pull of push itself into a kickback position, but the tip is the ONLY thing that can kick.

You're basically saying that it's unusual for a kickback to occur if you are using the saw properly. But it's hardly impossible, even for the most experianced user. When there are multiple logs lying criss cross and a guy's limbing and bucking eventually something will go wrong and a kickback will occur.

Standing off to the side, a saw with a functioning chainbreak, and 9if worst comes to worst) a hard hat, will prevent injury in 999/1000 kickbacks.

So basically the woman who started this thread was correct. (In my humble opinion).
 
To clarify what I'm trying to say:

If you cut for a long time in messy conditions then eventually the tip of your saw will touch something. I'm talking about a pile of trees on the ground and trying to cut in all that mess.

Kickback while falling a tree is pretty unlikely if you are doing it ptoperly. (but still not impossible :angel: , like if you were doing a plunge cut).
 
If you dont experience and deal wit kickback then you arent really using a saw now are you? if all a guy does is cut with the gut of the bar, they arent aware of the fuul use of a chainsaw. :blob5:
 
If you where to cut up wood after a storm or hurricane, you will find the trees have tension in the most weird places......

How about bucking, split stems......

I have seen and tried to go through storm fallen timber that was at least 6m high, laying down with root side up, the entire root system 4m elevated.



4 0002 pic. That tree used to stand 10m in on the other side of the road!
It is about 2,5 m high.
 

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