Wild thingy GTG's

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FireMan2285

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Apr 25, 2011
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Location
Lenoir City Tn
are they goin to be any in the next couple of months around Knoxville tn anytime soon?because i been working on a project and i think i got it ready to try out.i don't have any NOS hook up to it but it can be done though.
 
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yea it is i still got a little more porting to do to it. when i find out how far i can take the intake side out. and then it should be ready to run like a champ.
 
well if i get it going before then i'll bring it but i can't promiss nothing. but i'm still searching the fourms trying to find out how much to go with the intake side of the cylinder.i got the exhaust pretty well good to go but still working on the carb intake side.
 
well if i get it going before then i'll bring it but i can't promiss nothing. but i'm still searching the fourms trying to find out how much to go with the intake side of the cylinder.i got the exhaust pretty well good to go but still working on the carb intake side.

If you're talking widening the intake, you can go all the way to 2mm of the narrowest part of the piston skirt in the intake side.

Lowering the intake, that takes a degree wheel and some knowledge that I just don't have yet. Can't help you there.
 
the word is 2mm of skirt to seal the port. I recently went a bit too wide on a 394 I was doing and it was just under 1.4mm and it is still a strong running saw. Good luck
 
Here's what i already got done on the exhaust side. and i think i might have over done it a little but i'll let you all be the judge of that.and when i get back togeather i'll get some video of it. i just bought the engine from a guy and i'm goin to put it in a poulan 295 casing and see what happens. i still have a little smoothing to streighten out and then start on the carb intake side and then afther i get it finshed it should be ready to go.


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and a other question i got is. can i still widen it when the intake side looks like this?


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Hard to tell, as I have never handled a Poulan cylinder in person...

Do you have the piston with the pencil line drawn on it that shows the original port shape and size?

If not, put the piston in the cylinder as straight as possible and trace the new port on. Take the piston out. From there, confirm that you are either at or past 2mm from the edge of the narrowest part of the skirt, or if you are not quite there yet, work it a little more until it's right.

Watch out for burrs on the edge of the ports, on the inside of the cylinder... if you don't smooth those down before putting the piston in, you'll mar the hell out of it.
 
nope i forgot to trace the shape of it.but i'll trace it right now and take and mic it and see where i'm at.and everytime i get done grinding on it. i take a other stone and smooth the burs off to make sure nothing will mess the piston up.
 
but only thing i done to the cylinder is grinded the lip down on it where they had a metal insert in it from factory. here a picture of the metal insert.

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