kmcinms
ArboristSite Guru
Are y'all replacing the pump drive gear(spring) when you put in a new pump?
Man, talk about CHEESE!!! :msp_laugh:
Man, talk about CHEESE!!! :msp_laugh:
Wildthing Races at GTG's.....
- Thread starter Arrowhead
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8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
No, unless its sharp or bent up. Doesn't ever seam to be on the ones I see.
little possum
Crash and Burn
Is there a secret place I can get some help with on my transfers 
I feel like I could gain just a little bit more from them
Im runnin a 2450. It runs pretty good, but I think it would benefit from a different carb, and a handle bar spring(one to the cylinder) If anyone happens to have a spare.
I feel like I could gain just a little bit more from them
Im runnin a 2450. It runs pretty good, but I think it would benefit from a different carb, and a handle bar spring(one to the cylinder) If anyone happens to have a spare.
Ed's WT will kick the hell out of most pro 50cc saws, with a sharp chain they can and do run well.
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="853" height="510" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/2TrSN_FTGxk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="853" height="510" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/2TrSN_FTGxk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Is there a secret place I can get some help with on my transfers
I feel like I could gain just a little bit more from them
Im runnin a 2450. It runs pretty good, but I think it would benefit from a different carb, and a handle bar spring(one to the cylinder) If anyone happens to have a spare.
Is that the one that attaches to the cylinder with a screw in the center and to the handle on the other end with a screw and self locking nut? Part of the antivibe system?
Carl.
Just looked, must have pitched it.
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little possum
Crash and Burn
Yep, thats the one, thanks for checkin
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Is there a secret place I can get some help with on my transfers
I feel like I could gain just a little bit more from them
Im runnin a 2450. It runs pretty good, but I think it would benefit from a different carb, and a handle bar spring(one to the cylinder) If anyone happens to have a spare.
Transfers??? What's that???
Wildthing 2375 with aux. transfers and XL-12 carb.
Port work before final smoothing and polishing.
Sorry about the crappy pic.
This is a 2375 jug with the transfers widened toward the intake port. I just determined where the top of the piston was at BDC and only widened the part of the transfer that was open.
Who did that work for you, Randy?
:hmm3grin2orange:
:hmm3grin2orange:
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
I see you left the ridge that retains the insert on the ex port on the top and bottom and just widened it.Thats what I did too.I squared up the intake some and shaved a few thos off the bottom of the in side of the piston.
Using a wt529 on mine with a cable.
Using a wt529 on mine with a cable.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
That jug is the first round on porting on this saw. Later I added aux. transfers, can't find the pics of the process. I was sure I took some...
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
I got anouther one just like it(2550)that nees a ring.So far all I've done to it is the muffler and larger carb.Got some ideas on it but since I don't have any more 42cc jugs, don't wanna get too carried away.Lemme know how yours turns out.That jug is the first round on porting on this saw. Later I added aux. transfers, can't find the pics of the process. I was sure I took some...
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
This saw has been together for quite awhile now. It runs strong as hell imo. At the last TN GTG it was less than two seconds behind the average on the 50cc class saws, that ain't bad for a 42cc saw.
I would like to find another one to play with. Next on the list is a welded pop-up and a pipe. :msp_sneaky:
If it ain't raining too bad tomorrow I'll post a video. It ain't as fast as Ed's but it's fun.
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firefighter33
ArboristSite Guru
I have a pair of 2375's here scooterbum sent me to practice some porting but still didnt do anything to them not even sure where to start do ii just start grinding??
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
You can get a degree wheel and do it right or just have fun and start grinding. Go up on the exhaust and down on the intake, and as wide as possible. NO seriously go a little at a time so you can see the improvements. I ground the snot out of my little husky and I love this saw now.
firefighter33
ArboristSite Guru
Where can i get a degree wheel @? Yeah thats the plan i want to start with a MM then go do some grinding.
Anyone have a bigger carb for sale that would work on my WT?
ckelp
just being myself
i don't know if it's because its late or i've been somkein meath but,
would a bolt through the head (only the bolt head is in the combustion chamber)
raise the the compression ratio like a pop-up piston would the way i'm lookin at it i'm just trying to fill the void a little more.. or would it cause turbulence in the combustion chamber and lowering the power.
i'm not plan on going to this to anything besides the WT just figuring lowbuck power for the lowbuck saw... the piston is almost shot and the cylinder looks like hell but, it runs!! i will be amazed if i'm able to put it to some wood before the ring hangs up in the exhaust port because i over way did it
would a bolt through the head (only the bolt head is in the combustion chamber)
raise the the compression ratio like a pop-up piston would the way i'm lookin at it i'm just trying to fill the void a little more.. or would it cause turbulence in the combustion chamber and lowering the power.
i'm not plan on going to this to anything besides the WT just figuring lowbuck power for the lowbuck saw... the piston is almost shot and the cylinder looks like hell but, it runs!! i will be amazed if i'm able to put it to some wood before the ring hangs up in the exhaust port because i over way did it
Anything to reduce the clearance volume. Super glue a big washer up in there.
On second thought, super glue may not stand the thermal cycle. Better use small machine screws.
Way back in the olden days, when I started at engineering school, they had fuel research engines in the M.E. lab. They had a graduated cylinder that slid in/out of the combustion chamber to vary the clearance volume. Engine was used to measure the knock sensitivity of a given fuel in order to find the octane rating.
Another type had the cylinder and head adjustable toward/away from the crank centerline. Splined shaft drove an overhead cam. No push rods.
They probably threw all that stuff away and now have only 'puters.:msp_scared:
On second thought, super glue may not stand the thermal cycle. Better use small machine screws.
Way back in the olden days, when I started at engineering school, they had fuel research engines in the M.E. lab. They had a graduated cylinder that slid in/out of the combustion chamber to vary the clearance volume. Engine was used to measure the knock sensitivity of a given fuel in order to find the octane rating.
Another type had the cylinder and head adjustable toward/away from the crank centerline. Splined shaft drove an overhead cam. No push rods.
They probably threw all that stuff away and now have only 'puters.:msp_scared:
ckelp
just being myself
they probably tossed your side rule as well...
