x-torq running/tuning issues Husky 440..

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SawGarage

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Hey guys..

picked up A 2009 Husqvarna 440 x torq saw up a little while ago...



I'm having issues with it running consistently, and before I start swapping parts (I'm thinking I should try and seek-out? a known-good carb and/or coil for starters...)

I'm a bit at a loss as to what it would be... :dizzy:

In the video, I was trying some combinations of throttle up/down, moving the saw, etc.. to see If I could re-enact the issue... if you look/listen carefully, you can hear it falter, even though it's currently set rich (1 1/8+turns out on the H... just a hair less on the L )...




Base line: Starting @ one-turn out on the carb screws we get what you'll see in the next video... Basically 4-stroking hard.. then LEAN like it RAN out of fuel... then it will run fine for 5-10 seconds, then reset throttle blade, and try again... you can see the bogging of the saw when the body of the saw becomes unloaded...

The saw shows no signs of an air leak, and will idle, unchanged, forever.

<iframe width="640" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/xf2KfiFWiW0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


I ALSO have a 445 that I've had issues getting running right that I received as a trade-in on another saw... That saw is unable to throttle up, no matter where the adjustment screws are placed... BUT, will smoke like a train when the H-screw is turned over 1.5 turns out...



thoughts/suggestions?? I'm a bit new to the x-torq scene :dizzy:
 
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Any chance it's drawing air from inside the fuel tank, or the filter is plugged ? If there was ethanol-based fuel used in there, the hoses might be dried out and sucking a bit of air. Seems to run ok with good ignition, I'd look on the fuel side. If it only acts up on full throttle one would suspect a fuel supply issue. It does seem to smoke quite a lot, what's the fuel/oil ratio (not that it's causing the problem you're having) ?

If I had to spend money on something I'd look at the fuel supply and primer lines and the fuel filter first, but someone else will likely have a more educated response than me soon enough.
 
Any chance it's drawing air from inside the fuel tank, or the filter is plugged ? If there was ethanol-based fuel used in there, the hoses might be dried out and sucking a bit of air. Seems to run ok with good ignition, I'd look on the fuel side. If it only acts up on full throttle one would suspect a fuel supply issue. It does seem to smoke quite a lot, what's the fuel/oil ratio (not that it's causing the problem you're having) ?

If I had to spend money on something I'd look at the fuel supply and primer lines and the fuel filter first, but someone else will likely have a more educated response than me soon enough.

Ethanol is a possible suspect... BUT...

Fuel lines up top *look* perfect... in the tank they are like new... I have worked on a few of these with ZERO signs of ethanol degradation to the fuel lines (I was thinking these are E-10 lines, BUT might be wrong..)

I might change the lines JUST to be sure...

Fuel is ~ 40:1... plus it was tuned a bit FAT.... :)
 
It's not always a crack or a hole in the lines. Some of these newer lines are pretty good at resisting that - at a price. The rubber tends to get softer and may collapse on itself under suction. How soft are the lines inside the tank? If you had a spark tester you could see if the spark intermittantly cut out when it did that also. May need a good solid carb cleaning and kit. Don't worry about the x-torq, that has nothing to do with your issue. Treat it like you would any other saw doing the same thing.
 
just send it my way so you don't have to worry about fixing it:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
 
i have done several of those,,,, what i did was fuels lines and carb kit,, cleared i up
 
It's not always a crack or a hole in the lines. Some of these newer lines are pretty good at resisting that - at a price. The rubber tends to get softer and may collapse on itself under suction. How soft are the lines inside the tank? If you had a spark tester you could see if the spark intermittantly cut out when it did that also. May need a good solid carb cleaning and kit. Don't worry about the x-torq, that has nothing to do with your issue. Treat it like you would any other saw doing the same thing.

Tom,

Hmm... :msp_unsure: I didn't even think of that, ALTHOUGH I've noticed QUITE a few lines that were MUSHY...some, not bad enough to collapse, but some so bad they have 'flattened memory' :bang:

Geez... with Ethanol it's either HARDEN and crack, or SOFTEN and collapse... will we EVER win?!??!?!? :dizzy:

10-4 on the 'x-torq-like-any-other-saw' part...) I was wondering if the progressive opening might have something to do with it....


I'm just surprised that it would run perfectly @ times, and other times, not-so-much.

I will put the spark tester on it :) to atleast eliminate it as an issue.....

just send it my way so you don't have to worry about fixing it:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Scott, boxed and ready to go :)



i have done several of those,,,, what i did was fuels lines and carb kit,, cleared i up

good point... with all the specialty lines in here, I can see this tune-up costing MORE than usual ;)
 
Ya the fuel lines are a little more but not terrible. Submerged in fuel will tend to soften, exposure to air will harden ;) it's nasty stuff! Our nice gubment tellin us what's best for us :( Whoda thunk we should burn corn in our engines???
 
It's not always a crack or a hole in the lines. Some of these newer lines are pretty good at resisting that - at a price. The rubber tends to get softer and may collapse on itself under suction. How soft are the lines inside the tank? If you had a spark tester you could see if the spark intermittantly cut out when it did that also. May need a good solid carb cleaning and kit. Don't worry about the x-torq, that has nothing to do with your issue. Treat it like you would any other saw doing the same thing.

Yup Inline spark tester
 
Ya the fuel lines are a little more but not terrible. Submerged in fuel will tend to soften, exposure to air will harden ;) it's nasty stuff! Our nice gubment tellin us what's best for us :( Whoda thunk we should burn corn in our engines???

Seems to me it's lousy material used to make the fuel lines, saving mfgs a penny or two per unit.
Corn-likker mostly a scapegoat. Plasticizer(s) getting leached from lines- brittle lines & leaks.
In case you were wondering, our gummint is theoretically us, except for the parts bought by the 1%. (Kochs & other oligarchs.) Henry Ford designed his original engines to burn alcohol. Stop whining.
 
Seems to me it's lousy material used to make the fuel lines, saving mfgs a penny or two per unit.
Corn-likker mostly a scapegoat. Plasticizer(s) getting leached from lines- brittle lines & leaks.
In case you were wondering, our gummint is theoretically us, except for the parts bought by the 1%. (Kochs & other oligarchs.) Henry Ford designed his original engines to burn alcohol. Stop whining.

It's a matter of adaptation. When you order fuel lines by the millions it's a big ship to turn around. New lines are being produced to combat this. Old lines need to be replaced as needed, they were made before we instituted this level of ethanol bull####. And for saws sold around the world, it's tough to make changes for a single market when they all come off the same line. That goes for all brands.

New crap brands do nothing. They still run cheap clear vinyl that rots once a year.
 
Pull the carb, you will most likely find some rubber in the fuel pump.

Rubber in the fuel pump?? as-in PIECES of line? are you suggesting that this is causing the issue as to why it runs like it does, or as 'proof ' that the lines are failing??



It's a matter of adaptation. When you order fuel lines by the millions it's a big ship to turn around. New lines are being produced to combat this. Old lines need to be replaced as needed, they were made before we instituted this level of ethanol bull####. And for saws sold around the world, it's tough to make changes for a single market when they all come off the same line. That goes for all brands.

New crap brands do nothing. They still run cheap clear vinyl that rots once a year.

Tom,

So, what constitues 'NEW'?? as in 2010-2011 + saws?? I would think the lines in a saw post 2000 or 2005 would have ethanol resistant lines in them...

hmmm
 
Rubber in the fuel pump?? as-in PIECES of line? are you suggesting that this is causing the issue as to why it runs like it does, or as 'proof ' that the lines are failing??


Yes pieces of line, from being cut on the fuel inlet pipe. The lines should not be failing on such a new saw. Most saws made in the past 10-15yrs have e-10 (a few e-15) approved lines.
 
Rubber in the fuel pump?? as-in PIECES of line? are you suggesting that this is causing the issue as to why it runs like it does, or as 'proof ' that the lines are failing??


Yes pieces of line, from being cut on the fuel inlet pipe. The lines should not be failing on such a new saw. Most saws made in the past 10-15yrs have e-10 (a few e-15) approved lines.

I would HOPE that would be the case.... BUT, I have replaced lines in MANY saws of the 'curly-cue' variety from them breaking down/getting brittle....

I'm testing spark, and if that checks out (should, hopefully) it'll be on to the carb...

Thanks guys! :cheers:

J
 
Rubber in the fuel pump?? as-in PIECES of line? are you suggesting that this is causing the issue as to why it runs like it does, or as 'proof ' that the lines are failing??





Tom,

So, what constitues 'NEW'?? as in 2010-2011 + saws?? I would think the lines in a saw post 2000 or 2005 would have ethanol resistant lines in them...

hmmm

At this point I couldn't tell you for sure. At this point, across all makes, I have yet to see a fuel line that is not failing due to ethanol. However, statements have been made that line quality is improving along with other components. Of course the newer the saw the longer it takes to tell... Then again a particular short run of lines may have been bad and may have ended up on that saw. If in fact the saw is within its 2 year warranty period the line should be replaced at no cost anyway.
 
Update

*UPDATE*

went through the fuel system, and METICULOUSLY cleaned the carb & installed a new kit...

BIGGEST thing, is the hesitations/studders are GONE :) ....

BUT,

I can screw the H & L screws ALL THE WAY IN and it still runs.. a bit TOO RICH down @ idle... and still 4-strokes HARD @ WOT....

:dizzy:

I THINK the PO had the DEALER work on it (as it has the splined adj. screws...so DOUBTFUL it's from a home-owner....) and they KILLED the needle seats.

That's about the only thing I can think of?? :confused:


I'm thinkin' I need a carb... :(



Anyone have one available?

:cheers:
 
*UPDATE*

went through the fuel system, and METICULOUSLY cleaned the carb & installed a new kit...

BIGGEST thing, is the hesitations/studders are GONE :) ....

BUT,

I can screw the H & L screws ALL THE WAY IN and it still runs.. a bit TOO RICH down @ idle... and still 4-strokes HARD @ WOT....

:dizzy:

I THINK the PO had the DEALER work on it (as it has the splined adj. screws...so DOUBTFUL it's from a home-owner....) and they KILLED the needle seats.

That's about the only thing I can think of?? :confused:


I'm thinkin' I need a carb... :(



Anyone have one available?

:cheers:

The good thing is I believe they are relatively inexpensive as new, you may just go that route. I think I may even have a used one kicking around, I'll have to check my box 'o carbs.
 
The good thing is I believe they are relatively inexpensive as new, you may just go that route. I think I may even have a used one kicking around, I'll have to check my box 'o carbs.

10-4....I wanna say ball-park $40-45 from what saw on the WWW...

BUT, anything I can SAVE at this point is welcome ;) so, I'm open to options...

:cheers:
 
I apologize, I hadn't a moment to check the box. I'll look tomorrow. Please send a PM in the AM as a reminder if you will. I did remember but was just a crazy day.
 
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