MS441 or 385xp?

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So HBRN you expect us to be suprised that a 385 with a "tuned" chain would beat a 441 with a "tuned chain" now there is a suprise, a saw with more CC's beats a saw with less CC's with a sharp chain !!! now I know where I have been going wrong all these years ! so I need to buy bigger saws to beat my smaller saws, now I see....
I know it's wrong to reply to your challenged post but the devil in me just can't help it, I have no hate for you, before you trot that one, out only sadness.
 
As as example ,if you have a saw that is used in softer woods and it is a 60 cc saw,you can tune the chain to get the most performance out of the saw. The way to tune a chain is by chaining rider height and changing the cutting tooth angle to be any were from 25 degrees to 35 degrees. Also can you tune a chain by sharpening the chain with no gullet for better chip severing.
 
So HBRN you expect us to be suprised that a 385 with a "tuned" chain would beat a 441 with a "tuned chain" now there is a suprise, a saw with more CC's beats a saw with less CC's with a sharp chain !!! now I know where I have been going wrong all these years ! so I need to buy bigger saws to beat my smaller saws, now I see....
I know it's wrong to reply to your challenged post but the devil in me just can't help it, I have no hate for you, before you trot that one, out only sadness.

Yes 80cc with a well tuned chain can beat a 70cc saw with a well tuned chain. Were talking about stock saw to stock saw,not custom built saws.
 
It has more to do how the chain is tuned then anything else when it come to performance.

Chain tuning was a new one on me too. After considerable research, I found the formula.

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TF2A.jpg
=:big_smile:
 
HBRN who said anything about modded saws ? You stated that a stock 385 could beat a stock 441 with both saws having a sharp chain .... what do you not see ... a bigger saw beats a smaller saw ...I was only thanking you for that gem. Skoty wise up and stop posting rubbish.
I should remind folk to watch your vid in the commercial tree section " Hazard tree felling" If that is one of your "tuned" chains then ....that is if you have not deleted your post as you are prone to do when caught in a load of waffle ?
 
As as example ,if you have a saw that is used in softer woods and it is a 60 cc saw,you can tune the chain to get the most performance out of the saw. The way to tune a chain is by chaining rider height and changing the cutting tooth angle to be any were from 25 degrees to 35 degrees. Also can you tune a chain by sharpening the chain with no gullet for better chip severing.

What is "tuning" a chain? Do you do it by ear? Does the amount of oil on the bar change the pitch? What is a "rider" on a chain and how the hell does he stay on at 13,000 RPM? I know about serving chips (salsa goes well with them) but never have I severed a chip. Is that what I did to my leg before I got my chaps?

You have a plethora of information that never seems to have reached anyone else in the industry.
 
HBRN should become a sponsor, hell, there are prolly thousands to be made in chain tuning as no one else here seems to know how it's done. :bang::bang:
 
HBRN who said anything about modded saws ? You stated that a stock 385 could beat a stock 441 with both saws having a sharp chain .... what do you not see ... a bigger saw beats a smaller saw ...I was only thanking you for that gem. Skoty wise up and stop posting rubbish.
I should remind folk to watch your vid in the commercial tree section " Hazard tree felling" If that is one of your "tuned" chains then ....that is if you have not deleted your post as you are prone to do when caught in a load of waffle ?

This is the reason your post are worthless trash full of half truths and unfounded information:msp_thumbdn:
 
This is the reason your post are worthless trash full of half truths and unfounded information:msp_thumbdn:

HBRN,

You are very adept at attacking the people who question the "information" that you post, but never are you able to provide evidence or photographs to support your statements. People are growing weary of the dribble that you post here and most have correctly branded you as a wannabe cutter. The simple fact that people do not respond to the threads that you start should give you a clue you are being ignored.

While it is fun to ridicule your outlandish claims and statements, that is not why this forum was created. Do us all a favor and limit your posts to something that you actually know about and can substantiate for the group.

Got to go, time to "tune" the "riders" on my chain.... :rock:

The official A.S. badger... ©®™
 
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Well saws can be modded for power gain but a poorly tuned chain can make it as slow as a stock saw. The 385 with a well tuned full skip chain on 28" bar will run circles around a stock 441 running a 28" bar and a well tuned full skip chain. It has more to do how the chain is tuned then anything else when it come to performance.

Wow. A saw with more displacement and horsepower is faster than a saw with less displacement and horsepower when running the same bar and chain? Who would have thunk it to be true. I actually have real time, not imaginary internet time, on both a 441 and a 385(2186 actually), and I concur with your findings. But then again I can really tune a chain. lol
 
HBRN who said anything about modded saws ? You stated that a stock 385 could beat a stock 441 with both saws having a sharp chain .... what do you not see ... a bigger saw beats a smaller saw ...I was only thanking you for that gem. Skoty wise up and stop posting rubbish.
I should remind folk to watch your vid in the commercial tree section " Hazard tree felling" If that is one of your "tuned" chains then ....that is if you have not deleted your post as you are prone to do when caught in a load of waffle ?

I did watch that video and well......... its priceless!:msp_scared:
 
As as example ,if you have a saw that is used in softer woods and it is a 60 cc saw,you can tune the chain to get the most performance out of the saw. The way to tune a chain is by chaining rider height and changing the cutting tooth angle to be any were from 25 degrees to 35 degrees. Also can you tune a chain by sharpening the chain with no gullet for better chip severing.

Scotty I agree with you here, I also "tune" my chains for the wood I'm cutting. I had to "noodle" some redwood last year with the 090 and a 5' bar and the saws kept clogging with noodles so I refiled the the cutters to around 10 degrees so the tooth with produce chips that would fall to the ground. Of course everyone knows that changing the rider (depth guage) height between softwoods and hardwoods will "tune" the saw to the job. And yes the gullet height makes a big difference in square ground chain.

Still Scotty if you tone down your confrontational posts you might make some headway here.

Like I always say, even a blind nut finds a squirrel now and then.
 
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