mswabbie
ArboristSite Member
Can anyone explain the proper way to fell a tree using the flush cut method.
Thanks
Thanks
Flush Cut Felling
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ShoerFast
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Mswabbie
If your just a little more carfull on the first cut, (this one has a slight dutchmens notch) it will come out fine.
http://www.zippyvideos.com/4172849182878216/fellingmpeg/
The OSHA site has some good advice on notching and felling , it's worth a look.
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/manual/felling/felling.html
Kevin
If your just a little more carfull on the first cut, (this one has a slight dutchmens notch) it will come out fine.
http://www.zippyvideos.com/4172849182878216/fellingmpeg/
The OSHA site has some good advice on notching and felling , it's worth a look.
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/manual/felling/felling.html
Kevin
smokechase II
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I don't believe that I've heard the term "Flush cut felling method" before.
Could you give us some background on how it came to you or maybe a photo/web site of a finished product?
I suspect that it relates to the backcut matching something or how to achieve a very short stump. But am ignorant for now and perhaps longer.
Could you give us some background on how it came to you or maybe a photo/web site of a finished product?
I suspect that it relates to the backcut matching something or how to achieve a very short stump. But am ignorant for now and perhaps longer.
mswabbie
ArboristSite Member
No notch. Tree must fall in its natural direction. Cut through until tree starts to sit on bar. Then start boring cuts until 3/4 way through tree. The tree will sit on itself. Then start the felling cut on opposite side and about 2" above first cut.
ShoerFast
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not a flush log?,,,,,
I guess I'm not fallowing you, if your first cut it intell the tree sits on the bar, your boring cuts would also bind the saw?
Check this page out, at the bottem of the page: http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/log...ts/special_techniques/special_techniques.html
Is that what you mean?
Tom should be coming along with a very good felling book recomindation soon!
Kevin
mswabbie said:
I guess I'm not fallowing you, if your first cut it intell the tree sits on the bar, your boring cuts would also bind the saw?
Check this page out, at the bottem of the page: http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/log...ts/special_techniques/special_techniques.html
Is that what you mean?
Tom should be coming along with a very good felling book recomindation soon!
Kevin
smokechase II
Addicted to ArboristSite
ShoerFast:
Boy are there some things wrong on that OSHA site.
1) "The amount of back lean that can be overcome is based on the height and diameter of the tree to be felled." Not true. One has to add the weight.
To overcome leans on trees with more weight than others takes a measurable amount of power. Think pulling, jacks or much more advanced wedging than what is explained on that page. Weight is part of the equation too. Especially with larger timber.
2) In the "Trees that side scar easily" section they talk about nipping the corners ("corner to a depth of one inch before making the back cut") without mentioning that this is for only working with the lean. That portion of the holding wood should not be messed with otherwise.
I'd submit that control of the trees direction of fall is far more important than stopping some pull straps on the base log up the sides.
On a nearby page they talk about the face needing to be "1/4 - 1/3 of tree diameter". Their drawings also clearly show a 25% in too small of a face. Proper face size is not just height, but also depth. What about the times you need to go 1/2 way in on a heavy straight 30' staub?
I think this shallow face got in here like the corner nipping above. A production and not a safety item.
Etc Etc
I'm not clear on the method described by mswabbie. I think I need that drawn out. sorry.
Boy are there some things wrong on that OSHA site.
1) "The amount of back lean that can be overcome is based on the height and diameter of the tree to be felled." Not true. One has to add the weight.
To overcome leans on trees with more weight than others takes a measurable amount of power. Think pulling, jacks or much more advanced wedging than what is explained on that page. Weight is part of the equation too. Especially with larger timber.
2) In the "Trees that side scar easily" section they talk about nipping the corners ("corner to a depth of one inch before making the back cut") without mentioning that this is for only working with the lean. That portion of the holding wood should not be messed with otherwise.
I'd submit that control of the trees direction of fall is far more important than stopping some pull straps on the base log up the sides.
On a nearby page they talk about the face needing to be "1/4 - 1/3 of tree diameter". Their drawings also clearly show a 25% in too small of a face. Proper face size is not just height, but also depth. What about the times you need to go 1/2 way in on a heavy straight 30' staub?
I think this shallow face got in here like the corner nipping above. A production and not a safety item.
Etc Etc
I'm not clear on the method described by mswabbie. I think I need that drawn out. sorry.
ShoerFast
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Smokechace II
Thanks, yes I'm not sure of the method mswabbie described, but like me, I would rather try to help, as I tend to find out somethings the hard way!
After years of making fun of OSHA, I do refrance the site as the practice I use, when I cut Defendable Space and New Build Clearings as a zero libiality contractor,,,,,,, it just sounds better then saying "ya, I'll take the wood"
But if they were a private business offering that type of advice, they would spend a lot of time in the court room!
Dosant it seem like there should be a disclamer in there some were that says that some trees should just be dropped were they want to fall?
I mean some trees just spent a couple hunded years just growing to hit the groud just were it's going to hit!
And yes, they seem to think that wedges never pop out with there shallow face cut.
As for me, felling is my finest chore! I will even cut the rest of the tree up and haul it out, if it means I can cut another one down! But I know I have a lot more to learn.
Kevin
Thanks, yes I'm not sure of the method mswabbie described, but like me, I would rather try to help, as I tend to find out somethings the hard way!
After years of making fun of OSHA, I do refrance the site as the practice I use, when I cut Defendable Space and New Build Clearings as a zero libiality contractor,,,,,,, it just sounds better then saying "ya, I'll take the wood"
But if they were a private business offering that type of advice, they would spend a lot of time in the court room!
Dosant it seem like there should be a disclamer in there some were that says that some trees should just be dropped were they want to fall?
I mean some trees just spent a couple hunded years just growing to hit the groud just were it's going to hit!
And yes, they seem to think that wedges never pop out with there shallow face cut.
As for me, felling is my finest chore! I will even cut the rest of the tree up and haul it out, if it means I can cut another one down! But I know I have a lot more to learn.
Kevin
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