Homelite Chainsaws

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fossil
Joined
Jan 10, 2012
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Southern Ontario
Aaron,
Thanks for the carb advice. I did vac and pressure test the saw but did not pressue test the carb. I have dome so now and it holds fine. I'll pull it apart and make sure I have the kit in right. Do you tend to use the rubber pump diaphragm or the (mylar?) brown reinforced plastic one? Any idea what the difference is?
Once that is all proven out, I'll block off the governor to see if that's it.
I had a look down the reed block and that all looks OK as far as I can see.The reeds look and all look seated.
It just appears to be choking on fuel. Starts up OK but there's lots of fuel mix in the muffler after it's been running a bit.
 
Eccentric

Eccentric

Mister Wizard
Joined
Jan 21, 2007
Messages
14,224
Location
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If the carb had failed a pres test then I'd say you have a leaking welch plug and/or an issue with the needle/seat (such as crap holding the seat up). Sound's like that's not the case here. Make sure the metering gasket goes against the carb body before the diaphragm on the metering side, and the pump diaphragm goes against the body before the pump gasket on the pump side.

Another possibility is if the carb is of the type where the metering lever is forked at both ends (one end fits into a groove in the needle...........and the other fits into a groove on the 'tit' of the metal plate in the metering diaphragm), that the diaphragm end isn't engaged in the groove of said 'tit'. I usually use the rubber diaphragm. Supposedly that give better 'pump action', while the mylar diaphragm is more resistant to ethanol. I run eth-free gas...
 
67L36Driver
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Nov 1, 2010
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14,590
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St. Joseph, MO
Cleaned the C-91 recoil pulley/sprag with mineral spirits and dried. Then, sprayed a wiff of WD40 and dried that with a wad of facial tissue. Two rollers kept falling out so it was a trick getting it put back on the saw.

Best part is, it cranks every time! And, the thing pumps 145. Pops on a prime. Won't take much to get runnin'.

The XP-1000 pumps 145 also and is a runner!

Hopefully, pics. tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
Nickolas

Nickolas

Retired and messing around with old stuff...
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The HL141 has the same throttle and venturi bore measurements as the HL19, HL103, and HL63 carbs used on some 99cc, 103cc, and 123cc Macs. The only Homelites that I recall which had larger bore HL's were the 114cc 2000/2100/3100 series. Those had HL273A's.

Ok then I should be good to go. Thanks for the info. You know this is only the second Homelite I have bought and they have pretty stout compression. The super 925 I got is just under 200psi and the newly acquired 1050 has 180psi. Most Macs I get have 125-150psi so is this typical of homelite saws to have compression this high? I'm not that familiar with them yet since I am mainly a Mac man.

Thanks,

Nick

Sent from my S10 using Tapatalk
 
watsonr

watsonr

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Started in Idaho, ended up in Virginia!
I found a 650 for sale and have a question before I look at it. It's clean for what it is but has a new 3' stihl branded bar and chain on it. To my knowledge they don't have the same mount. Someone enlighten me if I'm wrong
Shea
As said above, someone may have made a spacer. But either way, now everybody knows there's one for sale in NC. I hope your already on it, looks pretty clean and that price ain't to bad for the way she looks!
 
watsonr

watsonr

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Started in Idaho, ended up in Virginia!
Ok then I should be good to go. Thanks for the info. You know this is only the second Homelite I have bought and they have pretty stout compression. The super 925 I got is just under 200psi and the newly acquired 1050 has 180psi. Most Macs I get have 125-150psi so is this typical of homelite saws to have compression this high? I'm not that familiar with them yet since I am mainly a Mac man.

Thanks,

Nick

Sent from my S10 using Tapatalk

Most of the bigger saws have a lower compression number, Homie's a little more than usual. Everyone of my Macs will rip your fingers off!
 
Nickolas

Nickolas

Retired and messing around with old stuff...
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Most of the bigger saws have a lower compression number, Homie's a little more than usual. Everyone of my Macs will rip your fingers off!


I got it running today and it's going to be a sweet saw. Reminds me of an old big block Chevy with it's throaty low idle, peppy too like my Mac 797. Like I said it's only my second Homelite saw and I like how it looks and the weight. I have also noticed these auto oilers work very well on the homelite saws. All I need to do is rebuild the carb and it should be good to go.

I have a few Mac's that will snap your wrist if you don't have a good grip. The 797 and Yellow top super 250 are pretty stout and the 450 but others aren't too bad. I was strictly a Mac man but I think I am going to need a few of this style HL I like these. I only have about a dozen saws as I haven't been at it too long but I can see the Home lite bug is also going to bite me.

Nick

Sent from my S10 using Tapatalk
 
Eccentric

Eccentric

Mister Wizard
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Can the oiler pickup line be changed from the clutch side on the XP-1000? Or, do I have to remove fuel tank to get to him.

Pumps when oil is full to the brim but won't when half full.

Sorry Carl, but I believe you have to remove the fuel tank and then the oil tank in order to get to the line. It attaches to a brass fitting that's threaded into (or pressed into....can't recall) the drivecase. You put the new oil pickup line on that fitting (with the weighted pickup screen on the end) and then install the oil tank around it.

Remember that there is a fuel tank attaching screw that threads in from the flywheel cover side (in addition to the screws in the front). At least you don't have to take the front cover off of the fuel tank to remove the tank (like on a front-tank Mac). You don't need to mess with those teeny little tank cover screws.....

The oil pump check valve is under the slotted brass plug on the clutch side of the drivecase. Would be great if this saw series had a pickup body that threaded through from that side, with the pickup line attached to it (like the pickup body on a SXL-AO).
 
Eccentric

Eccentric

Mister Wizard
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They're not in current production. The rim-drive drum (takes regular large seven-spline rims) is Oregon # 10616. Same drum used on the C-series saws (unlike on some of the later 100cc Homelites). I don't have the Oregon # for the .404-8 spur drum...........but I think I have one in my parts stash. Can't recall if it's a Homelite part or Oregon/Herr/Windsor/etc. Something else to dig out this weekend.:D
 
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