I need help deciding
- Thread starter fmrMarine
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weedkilla
Ain't no guru of nuthin'
Sounds smart - just make sure that the kit matches the size chain you are running. Hopefully your brother knows, but the short version is you need a different file size for 325 and 3/8 (the sizes you are likely to see on an 026). It should be stamped on the bar. Different guide too, and some filing kits have size specific raker height guides.
IMHO, a 16" B&C is the best fit for your saw. However, I run a 20" bar on my 50cc saw, not to cut bigger wood, but to save my back with less leaning over.
weedkilla
Ain't no guru of nuthin'
Go with .325 unless you have a valid reason not to. Your saw will perform better with .325, but will be fine with 3/8.
adkranger
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's full comp chain......you will not be happy cutting with that combo trust me. You will be frustrated and think your new-to-you saw sux, doggy because it's just too much. If you can swing another set up, do it. Either out of pocket, or see if your new dealer will be willing to help you out. A good saw shop is gold these days, if they treat you well, remember that with your future business.
What species/type of wood will you be cutting? Get yourself a 16 or 18" B/C setup (I like 16" for the 026 because it balances better), 20 at the most otherwise you will be disappointed in performance.
The PPE deal sounds good from a distance. Like someone else posted, you could compare similar set ups at Baileys for price comparo.
Do you have a spur or rim sprocket? If rim, all you have to do is swap that out to go to .325. Someone here would likely make you a trade for what you need.
sounds good weedkilla.
blsnelling what do you mean by .325?
adkranger what is a recommended setup for this saw? you said i have a full comp chain. what should i have instead?
Im thinking about going with an 18" bar. I guess Ill have to get a new chain too??
blsnelling what do you mean by .325?
adkranger what is a recommended setup for this saw? you said i have a full comp chain. what should i have instead?
Im thinking about going with an 18" bar. I guess Ill have to get a new chain too??
Someoen told me the tip i have on my bar is a nice tip too. is he right?
He didnt think i had a pro saw though. is this a pro or regular or whats the difference?
Also the Stihl dealer ran the serial number on the saw and couldnt find it. is this strange?? he thinks its from the early 90's but why cant he pull it up by s number
here is the number 220369862
heres the number
He didnt think i had a pro saw though. is this a pro or regular or whats the difference?
Also the Stihl dealer ran the serial number on the saw and couldnt find it. is this strange?? he thinks its from the early 90's but why cant he pull it up by s number
here is the number 220369862
heres the number
adkranger
Addicted to ArboristSite
.325 is the chain pitch (measured between three of the rivets). Your saw is currently wearing a 3/8ths pitch chain, which is bigger, which means the corresponding cutter teeth are larger. What Brad posts is correct, an 026 will perform better with a .325 setup and is what is comes with standard new. Many guys convert their small middle weight saws to 3/8s, same as their 60 & 70 cc saws to simplify chain/bar supply, sharpening hardware and such. I personally keep my <60cc saws in .325, but understand those that like interchangeability of bars and chains.
18" B/C combo will work. If you don't see yourself using that 24" setup, see if your new dealer that looked over your saw will wheel n deal. My advice, you want a new bar, two loops of chain, the correct files to sharpen and your for mentioned PPE. If you give this guy the correct impression that you will be giving him future business, he will likely do what he can to earn your business......of course I'm not in the shop with you, so use your judgement. Was he helpful to you upon your visit earlier today? Did it seem like your business mattered to him? If so, he'll likely do something for you. That windsor bar could go on a trade in/re-sale saw, or he could sell it to someone else, or ......it has value is all I'm saying. If I was closer I would swap you out with an appropriate set up, shipping is likely not worth it though.
MillerModSaws
USE2COULDBESPONSER!
That bar should be a perfect setup for your brothers 044.
weedkilla
Ain't no guru of nuthin'
Okay, I'll try to do this in some order.
"Pro" construction isn't a specific term, but means things like a metal bottom end that has the bearings pressed into it, with a cylinder that bolts on the top. Things like replaceable chain catchers, bolt on dawgs, and a rim drive setup on the clutch are typical.
The 026 is considered a pro saw.
Now, chain and bar and stuff....
That is a good bar, having a replaceable tip is a sign of a top notch bar but is almost pointless for less than full time pro work. Thing is, normally when the tip is dead the bar is pretty much dead and riveting on a new tip is a waste of time. IMHO.
The tip on your bar is stamped with "3/8", this is the pitch of the chain. Chains come in different pitches, the distance between the pins determines it. You can google "saw chain pitch" or similar and find out how it's measured.
This is important for you when you look for a new bar.
That saw could run either 3/8 or 325 pitch chain, but will almost certainly perform better with 325. This is a smaller chain that takes less horsepower to make a cut.
To change to you will need a bar, chain and to change the drive. It could cost from sub $50 to $150, some research, advice and help will make it happen at the lower end.
Essentially the cog on the clutch drum needs to match the pitch of chain. At the moment your clutch drum will match a 3/8 chain. There are two types of drive, known as rim drive and spur drive. Spur drive has the cog cast as part of the clutch drum and rim drive has a replaceable sprocket on the spline coming off the clutch drum. To replace a sprocket is cheap, so hopefully it is a spline drive sprocket set up. If not, check the wear on the spur drive. You can post some photos once the clutch cover, bar and chain are off and we will help.
Full comp is basically normal chain, in some situations a chain that has cutters less often is advantageous, one of these is when you are running too long a bar on a small saw. That bar might be just ok if it had a full skip chain, even then it would probably struggle to oil a bar that long.
However, that bar and chain would be about perfect on an 044, so it is almost certainly worth keeping in the family!
I would recommend buying a cheap, laminated sprocket nose bar, it will last a long time in the use you suggest and is more likely to die from a log rolling on it than from old age. That's just what happens while you learn.
A swap to 325 chain means you will need your own filing gear and can't borrow your brothers. I wouldn't consider this an issue, chain filing is as vital as putting mixed fuel in the tank.
"Pro" construction isn't a specific term, but means things like a metal bottom end that has the bearings pressed into it, with a cylinder that bolts on the top. Things like replaceable chain catchers, bolt on dawgs, and a rim drive setup on the clutch are typical.
The 026 is considered a pro saw.
Now, chain and bar and stuff....
That is a good bar, having a replaceable tip is a sign of a top notch bar but is almost pointless for less than full time pro work. Thing is, normally when the tip is dead the bar is pretty much dead and riveting on a new tip is a waste of time. IMHO.
The tip on your bar is stamped with "3/8", this is the pitch of the chain. Chains come in different pitches, the distance between the pins determines it. You can google "saw chain pitch" or similar and find out how it's measured.
This is important for you when you look for a new bar.
That saw could run either 3/8 or 325 pitch chain, but will almost certainly perform better with 325. This is a smaller chain that takes less horsepower to make a cut.
To change to you will need a bar, chain and to change the drive. It could cost from sub $50 to $150, some research, advice and help will make it happen at the lower end.
Essentially the cog on the clutch drum needs to match the pitch of chain. At the moment your clutch drum will match a 3/8 chain. There are two types of drive, known as rim drive and spur drive. Spur drive has the cog cast as part of the clutch drum and rim drive has a replaceable sprocket on the spline coming off the clutch drum. To replace a sprocket is cheap, so hopefully it is a spline drive sprocket set up. If not, check the wear on the spur drive. You can post some photos once the clutch cover, bar and chain are off and we will help.
Full comp is basically normal chain, in some situations a chain that has cutters less often is advantageous, one of these is when you are running too long a bar on a small saw. That bar might be just ok if it had a full skip chain, even then it would probably struggle to oil a bar that long.
However, that bar and chain would be about perfect on an 044, so it is almost certainly worth keeping in the family!
I would recommend buying a cheap, laminated sprocket nose bar, it will last a long time in the use you suggest and is more likely to die from a log rolling on it than from old age. That's just what happens while you learn.
A swap to 325 chain means you will need your own filing gear and can't borrow your brothers. I wouldn't consider this an issue, chain filing is as vital as putting mixed fuel in the tank.
weedkilla
Ain't no guru of nuthin'
Seems like we are falling over ourselves and all typing at the same time!
adkranger makes some good points. A relationship with a local dealer may be more valuable than saving a few dollars. My locals annoy me so I kinda forget.
adkranger makes some good points. A relationship with a local dealer may be more valuable than saving a few dollars. My locals annoy me so I kinda forget.
adkranger
Addicted to ArboristSite
An 026 is most definitely a "pro" series saw. It is older, but stihl a goody. There was a 026 Pro that was the same exact saw but added a decompression valve for easier starting.....not sure why a Pro sawyer needs decomp but joey home owner doesn't, but there you go. Either config the saw is built exactly the same, same construction, same reliability...
As far as dealer not seeing the saw in the system, I believe that just means no one submitted the warranty info when originally purchased. Maybe one of the guys here that work in a shop know more on that one.
From the pix, your saw looks really good, even the air filter looks newish. She just needs a good cleaning is all. You want clean out as much of that caked on oily saw dust as you can. Especially on the cylinder fins and around the flywheel....to facilitate better cooling.
adkranger
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ha, ha. Right? Helpful bunch that we are. At least we haven't started up with the portin' and muffler moddin' yet....
adkranger
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's an excellent point......
fearofpavement
Trying them all
I can hardly believe someone fitted that saw with a 3/8 pitch 24" bar. That is really optimistic. A Stihl 026 is really happy with a 16 or 18" bar in .325 and that's what I would get for it. Hopefully it has a rim sprocket. Even if not, worth switching. Keep the bar, you'll need it later (trust me)
A cheap bar/chain combo can be found for $40ish bucks online ir maybe the dealer has a used one he'd sell cheap. You done good so far.
A cheap bar/chain combo can be found for $40ish bucks online ir maybe the dealer has a used one he'd sell cheap. You done good so far.
