By the way, got spark???
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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I've been working on the Poulan 375 as time allows. Now, I have the green Poulan bow that came with it but it's not included in the pictures. I plan on painting it dark gun metal gray and adding a new chain. I think it was originally a standard blade saw because the notch in the body is missing paint and doesn't appear to be from the factory. Same for the drive cover. It has a factory 3 spike dog which I've mostly seen with standard blade saws and not bow saws, although my experience with bow saws is very limited. Any thoughts on the spike?It's a good runner and has great spark and compression. I went through the carb with an OEM kit, fuel lines, fuel filter, breather line and duck bill, and a new NGK spark plug. It also has a NOS air filter. As the pictures will show I need to add a drive cover bolt and also a black chain catcher and hardware. I also replaced the front muffler section because it was damaged and the bolt hole had been enlarged. Does anyone have a correct one out there? Lastly, it does have the metal recoil pieces and the "advanced/pro" air filtration system derived from the 4000. Max.
Hate those sorry double fuel lines, cause more trouble that their worth, have seen the clear liner collapse.
Steve
Steve
The saw looks nice! Yea, its a shame the only way to run a bow on them is to grind away the case & cover to make room for the bow setup. I have a 5200 that is like that. I don't think there were many if any PP 375's that came that way from the factory. I think bow setups were a dealer supplied and or installed item.
Especially in the time frame that saw was built. 1989-1990 in there somewhere. Bows weren't a hot item. I'm pretty sure the spike is not needed with the bow setup. Somebody must have left it on, or put it back on to use with a standard bar. I don't own any bow saws, but have had the opportunity to run a few. It takes a pretty stout saw to handle a bow well in decent sized wood. Small wood & limbs it will do ok. Most were used on gear reduction drive saws. A 5200 Poulan at 85cc makes a dandy bow saw.
Gregg,
Don't know about that, dad had a Homie super xl-12 bow saw and ran great.
Steve
Steve
Haven't seen one like this before. Not mine.
Tim...Kijiji. Your area.
3000fps has one. 335 with 3450 piston. We have a thread on it.
We both had looked at it when it was FS and Roger bought it (not the one you show). I took to long to think about it and Roger pulled the trigger.
hoggwood now you see where my idea for my build came from. 
Homemade decals and different color paint scheme again being used.
Homemade decals and different color paint scheme again being used.
Jeremiah, I like your decals. It reminded me that I have some OEM decals waiting for the right 3400 saw. I'd also completely forgotten I had the chain brake decal. It makes me start to think, and that can be bad.
Keep the pics of that build coming. Max.
Keep the pics of that build coming. Max.
It may have a 4000 top end on it. The flywheel, starter, air filter cover and muffler are 3400 / 3800 units.
The 4000 was 65cc.
Bores are as follows
3400 1.810"
3800 1.880"
3700 1.875"
4000 1.935"
3700 / 4000 flywheel and dogs
3700 pulley
4000 pulley
Man, don't y'all ever clean ya chainsaw, every month the saw that get used the most gets stripped, cleaned and lubed. That saw looked like my dad's til I gave it a good cleaning. Could have sworn I got half a tree and 2qts of oil out of his.
Steve
Steve
Not my saw. Pics from google images.
Thanks for your concern for my saw's health.
Thanks for your concern for my saw's health.
roosterhog
ArboristSite Operative
Got a S25DA that is whipping me. Nice looking estate sale find. Nice looking specimen. Rebuilt the carb and put on new lines and filter. Here are the symptoms doctors:
-pretty hard to get started.
-will run at about half throttle, but sort of erratic.
-won't even begin to idle
-runs super fast at full throttle and then seems to starve for fuel and die.
-adjusting carb really hasn't had much effect
-acts like it has a vacuum leak, but the carb spacer looks good as well as the gaskets on both sides.
-has a walbro carb. Had a good Tillotson off another 25 and it did the same thing. Therefore I don't think it's the carb.
-at times it will flood like mad after only a few pulls.
Open to suggestions or prescriptions. Thanks!
-pretty hard to get started.
-will run at about half throttle, but sort of erratic.
-won't even begin to idle
-runs super fast at full throttle and then seems to starve for fuel and die.
-adjusting carb really hasn't had much effect
-acts like it has a vacuum leak, but the carb spacer looks good as well as the gaskets on both sides.
-has a walbro carb. Had a good Tillotson off another 25 and it did the same thing. Therefore I don't think it's the carb.
-at times it will flood like mad after only a few pulls.
Open to suggestions or prescriptions. Thanks!
I just finished up with a yellow PP S25 that would do the same thing. Hard to start & idled way too high.
The clutch side seal had been leaking so bad that the case bore below the seal was packed full of crap.
The jug gasket was also partially blown out on the starter side, & that didn't help either. A loose bottom jug nut caused that, even with the lock washer.
It idles & cuts really well now, even with that 1/4" pitch safety chain...
The clutch side seal had been leaking so bad that the case bore below the seal was packed full of crap.
The jug gasket was also partially blown out on the starter side, & that didn't help either. A loose bottom jug nut caused that, even with the lock washer.
It idles & cuts really well now, even with that 1/4" pitch safety chain...
roosterhog
ArboristSite Operative
Wellllll...got her going and she runs like a champ. Issue was in the carb after all. I blew through the carb with some fuel line in my mouth and could tell air was going somewhere. The fuel pump diaphragm from the carb kit I bought didn't really fit right and was allowing fuel to dump down the impulse hole into the crankcase. I put the old diaphragm and gasket back in and it held. She fired right up and adjusted right out and idles fine. Starts on the first pull. At last I have a functioning 25!
Why on earth the Walbro WA kit didn't have the right diaphragm is what gets me. It had a bunch of other things (oddball sized needle valve also) in the kit.
Thanks to acornhill and hotshot for trying to help.
OK, Bob Redunshee this thread is for you. I could not find your old thread about the S25DA's bar mount roll pins getting pressed in too far and how to get them out or lifted up, but I know I have seen it.
I had a yellow PP S25 that I cut with a little bit yesterday, and the front roll pin had been pushed in too far from a misalignment with the clutch cover in the past. It would not let the bar & outer plate "hang" when I went to clean it up & put the bar & guide plate back on.
So I took a carbide burr & cut two flat spots on the roll pin, 180 degrees apart. Then put a tiny #49 HiRoc MA Ford carbide drill bit in my Dremel with a small collet and drilled all the way through both sides. Those pins are heat treated and tougher than a boot to get through.
Then I put a regular carbon bit through the holes and tap wedged two screwdrivers under the bit ends, raising it out. Protect the bar pad with plastic.
For future ref, those roll pins were 5/16" diameter by 3/4" long. I'm putting 7/8" long ones back in, the protrusion out was set at 0.350" and that clears the pockets in the clutch cover, on this one anyway.
I had a yellow PP S25 that I cut with a little bit yesterday, and the front roll pin had been pushed in too far from a misalignment with the clutch cover in the past. It would not let the bar & outer plate "hang" when I went to clean it up & put the bar & guide plate back on.
So I took a carbide burr & cut two flat spots on the roll pin, 180 degrees apart. Then put a tiny #49 HiRoc MA Ford carbide drill bit in my Dremel with a small collet and drilled all the way through both sides. Those pins are heat treated and tougher than a boot to get through.
Then I put a regular carbon bit through the holes and tap wedged two screwdrivers under the bit ends, raising it out. Protect the bar pad with plastic.
For future ref, those roll pins were 5/16" diameter by 3/4" long. I'm putting 7/8" long ones back in, the protrusion out was set at 0.350" and that clears the pockets in the clutch cover, on this one anyway.
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Sty57
Tree Freak
My little Craftsman cleaned up nicely. New fuel line and filter and took off on the fourth pull.
Thanks, Brian
Thanks, Brian
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