Time serts are an expensive option there are others that are less expensive and you don't have to buy a whole kit of bits that you might never use. The name eludes me at the moment.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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dsell
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I had time to test the new fuel line and filter on my S25. I thought the stiff line was the problem. The saw would run fine, then die in the cut. Start again and repeat. If I held it just right, it would run and cut. It did the same thing after the new fuel line. So, I put the carb in marvel mystery oil and the ultrasonic for several cycles. Then, I let it set overnight. Finished the cleaning with honda bright, water, and a couple cycles in the ultrasonic. Put a Stens kit in and I'll try to test cut again today. I hope my problem was the crappy forester carb kit on the first overhaul.
Notice how bad the forester kit holes and valves mate to the carb. The lever that came with it is the large one. I didn't order forester, I ordered OEM Tilly.
Notice how bad the forester kit holes and valves mate to the carb. The lever that came with it is the large one. I didn't order forester, I ordered OEM Tilly.
Don't saw heli coil, hate those wire things, looks like a spring with threads, seen those come out.
Steve
Steve
If ya didn't live so far away I'd let you use mine, no standard tho
Steve
Steve
Maybe best to have it welded shut and then re drill and tap?
Scarr/Shaun can do that for you if you can't find someone locally..
redunshee
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That's the best solution for sure.
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Now that you have a sheet of brand new material, you can put two more spares together! I'm assuming those two are the whole crimped assemblies and not just the 1/16" plunger pins.
After 30 years of use, I sometimes find those midget pin assemblies loose in the diaphragm. I'll bet they just pulled them on out of the worn material, and then saved them for future rebuilds...
Cory rocks, I just made a half dozen for the big brother 3400-4000 series. Something inside to do while waiting for the ice storm glazing to melt off the roads.
redunshee
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Now have two issues unresolved. On my 3000 cylinder it appears the muffler bolt broke off deep inside the cylinder as I can't drill into the opening. Tapping won't allow me to go deep enough For a good bite and I see no way to get the broken bolt out. Even having it welded and tapped may not allow the bolt to go all the way in.
My S25 is giving me fits. Chain turned by hand fine w/o the clutch cover on but with the clutch cover tight chain won't move. Clutch doesn't appear to be hitting the cover. Any thoughts?
My S25 is giving me fits. Chain turned by hand fine w/o the clutch cover on but with the clutch cover tight chain won't move. Clutch doesn't appear to be hitting the cover. Any thoughts?
Edit: If you can get that bolt out....^
I found these E-Z Lok inserts simple to use with just a tap and a flat blade screwdriver to insert. Got them from Fastenal. $4 or so. Thin and thick wall. Maybe there would be enough material to tap out to 3/8 using the thin walled version? They worked well on my stripped out mount on an XL-130. http://www.ezlok.com/cds_categories.php?cid=aa-solid-threaded-inserts-for-metal&filter=internal_thread:2:1/4-20
Now that you have a sheet of brand new material, you can put two more spares together! I'm assuming those two are the whole crimped assemblies and not just the 1/16" plunger pins.
After 30 years of use, I sometimes find those midget pin assemblies loose in the diaphragm. I'll bet they just pulled them on out of the worn material, and then saved them for future rebuilds...
Cory rocks, I just made a half dozen for the big brother 3400-4000 series. Something inside to do while waiting for the ice storm glazing to melt off the roads.
View attachment 550769
That package looks familiar Randy. Glad it made the long journey there.
Loosen the bar bolt slightly and see if that helps. If so find out were it was binding.
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That S25CVA is really leaning out when trying to idle after a cut & it's the ER doctors's joy for the chain to be running on like that while you're moving wood around, LOL.
Did you try to richen up the low mix adjuster just enough to stop the chain after a run?
If the idle won't come back quicker, I'd be checking the duckbill in the gas cap, then tearing it back apart for a quick pressure & vac test...checking both seals, cylinder gasket, intake flange & oiler diaphragm by the sound of it.
Yeah, I'd say it was pretty well warmed up.
My gues is no to the adjusting question, I watched that vid and cringed. Gloves aren't any match to a spinning chain. Never put a saw down that's still fast idling, rant over.
dsell
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I let it warm up and then tuned the low side. That was 1st out from the rebuild. It has a new crankcase, new crank bearings, and new crank seals along with all new gaskets, fuel line, filters, and the carb kits.
I hope the chain stops now, that video showed an unsafe saw, only takes a second.
Haven't run my s25da much since I threw the Maytag rings in it from Otto's. One day I will pick up a cva version. This was the first cut it made after the rebuild. Went with a base gasket delete. Big on all fronts. Compression, heart, sound and vibes.
http://vid26.photobucket.com/albums/c104/Hoggwood/Poulan - S25DA - Douglas Fir2_zps1v4oiccs.mp4
http://vid26.photobucket.com/albums/c104/Hoggwood/Poulan - S25DA - Douglas Fir2_zps1v4oiccs.mp4
A bit small on bar.
Stout little rascal.
Stout little rascal.
A bit small on bar.
Stout little rascal.
Sent you some info on O... P..... E...... Poge
Yes Cory, never ran a saw that shook so much. Fast cutter though.
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