Nik's Poulan Thread

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So I got to run my Poulan 310 today and I feel like the muffler gets too hot, after I cut for about 10-15 minutes the muffler was 600F+ and the Cylinder was around 315F, is this normal, I would really hate to overheat my new saws lol
 
So I got to run my Poulan 310 today and I feel like the muffler gets too hot, after I cut for about 10-15 minutes the muffler was 600F+ and the Cylinder was around 315F, is this normal, I would really hate to overheat my new saws lol

Those mufflers are horribly restrictive. You could do a muffler mod to get the exhaust flowing. The mufflers on the link below are not the exact muffler but show what others have done.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/poulan-thread.98495/page-1436
 
So I think I might just drill out the baffle some and make the exit larger, my muffler doesn't give me much space for an extra port.
IMG_5083.JPG
 
I did manage to get the PP365 cleaned up last night which allowed me to determine more precisely what it will need. I decided the best way to test integrity of the crankcase and seals would be to assemble far enough to install the boot and block the intake flange, might as well test the boot while I was there. After cleaning the boot actually looked very good and the saw will hold a good vacuum and pressure.

20170301_215942.jpg

There was a screw missing from the front/left anti-vibe mount spring so I should be good to go there, but in the right hand background above you can see part of the rubber anti-vibe mounts used on the RH side of the saw.

So, it seems I will need a clutch (no problem, $8.12 + shipping from Poulanpro.com, I would like to replace the clutch drum (that one is not available from PP.com so other suggestions would be welcome), the RH side rubber anti-vibe mounts, and a spike bar (felling spikes, dawgs, whatever you want to call them).

As I was cleaning I did notice the bar was bent so I think I know why the anti-vibe mounts were ripped...

I have seen a few good suggestions on opening up the muffler so that will get a little work before I am finished.

Mark
 
I did manage to get the PP365 cleaned up last night which allowed me to determine more precisely what it will need. I decided the best way to test integrity of the crankcase and seals would be to assemble far enough to install the boot and block the intake flange, might as well test the boot while I was there. After cleaning the boot actually looked very good and the saw will hold a good vacuum and pressure.

View attachment 561805

There was a screw missing from the front/left anti-vibe mount spring so I should be good to go there, but in the right hand background above you can see part of the rubber anti-vibe mounts used on the RH side of the saw.

So, it seems I will need a clutch (no problem, $8.12 + shipping from Poulanpro.com, I would like to replace the clutch drum (that one is not available from PP.com so other suggestions would be welcome), the RH side rubber anti-vibe mounts, and a spike bar (felling spikes, dawgs, whatever you want to call them).

As I was cleaning I did notice the bar was bent so I think I know why the anti-vibe mounts were ripped...

I have seen a few good suggestions on opening up the muffler so that will get a little work before I am finished.

Mark

The clutch drums are all the same for many of that series poulan. 3300, 3450, PP365 3750, PP 380..... The Poulan drum can be found on ebay but pricy. Poulan 530048083. Cross referencing the oregon drum for a 3300 comes out to an oregon part number 34254X. If going the oregon route it will come with a .325 rim so will have to be replaced with a 3/8 7pin. It is 1/2 the price even with having to purchase a 3/8 rim.
 
So I think I might just drill out the baffle some and make the exit larger, my muffler doesn't give me much space for an extra port.
View attachment 561802

I think the exit on those mufflers are on the back. I have seen saws melt the plastic above.

There does not have to be much room on the side for a muff mod. Here's a mod I did on a 3400 a few years ago. I put a slit in with a small dremel disk, heated it with a torch, worked it with a large screw driver and finished it off by pounding in and chisel and shaping around. There was no exhaust port on the side before I started.
DSCF3911.JPG
 
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