Chainsaw taking 100 pulls to start.

[SteveSr]

I have an older Craftsman Pro 20"

I, and most others are not familiar with that particular saw. It sort of looks like an orange Poulan. You might post the photo and the model number on the Poulan thread and they might be able to help you with more specific suggestions.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Had the same problem with a Homelite 1050. The inlet needle would stick shut. You could pull forever and no fuel would get into the carb. Once primed and run, it would be fine.

 

[SteveSr]

Had the same problem with a Homelite 1050. The inlet needle would stick shut. You could pull forever and no fuel would get into the carb. Once primed and run, it would be fine.

That saw is old enough to be due for a carb kit at least... which may solve the OPs problem

 

[Nitram745]

That saw is old enough to be due for a carb kit at least... which may solve the OPs problem

Question for you: I can't find anything regarding my saw serial number and one of you fine people directed me to a Poulan 3700 or a Craftsman 3.7 (358.354830). Yes, that's my saw but only 18"...if I did manage to get the carb kit for the 3.7, would that work on my saw? (Craftsman 358.598201)

 

[Nitram745]

That saw is old enough to be due for a carb kit at least... which may solve the OPs problem

 

[Nitram745]

Sounds like the choke isnt closing 100 percent look at it.

Thanks

 

[SteveSr]

Question for you: I can't find anything regarding my saw serial number and one of you fine people directed me to a Poulan 3700 or a Craftsman 3.7 (358.354830). Yes, that's my saw but only 18"...if I did manage to get the carb kit for the 3.7, would that work on my saw? (Craftsman 358.598201)

Bar length is irrelevant. The powerhead model is what matters. Sounds like you have found it. You'll probally have to pull the carb to get the exact part number to get the right kit for it. Manufacturers change carbs like musical chairs. Again, the Poulan thread can help you out once you positively identify the carb.

 

[wcorey]

Could be a Poulan 3400 equivalent also though most of those were grey (<edit> just looked at the pic and saw that it says 3.7 on the starter cover. That part number 358.598201 is an odd one I've never seen, usually 358.356xxx for this series, maybe a Canadian thing).
Most likely the same carb kit either way as I think that whole series used walbro hdb but the way to know for sure is to use the model number on the carb.
Kit should be k10-hdb...

 

[hotshot]

Carb kit is #K10-HDB for a Walbro HDB-8.

Intake manifolds will loosen up on those saws & the gasket deforms and leaks...causes hard starting.

I’d definitely pressure test the saw to see if it holds 7# & vacuum test it at 15” Hg.

 

[Old2stroke]

Had the same problem with a Homelite 1050. The inlet needle would stick shut. You could pull forever and no fuel would get into the carb. Once primed and run, it would be fine.

After you have a carb apart, there are a couple of simple tests that can be done to verify the basic operation of the carb before reinstalling it. First test is to pressure test the inlet, if it will hold about 8psi you shouldn't have any flooding issue with it. To make sure the inlet valve and control diaphragm are working properly, keep pressure on the inlet port and then with the choke and the throttle held open, bring a shop vac nozzle up to the engine end of the carb, the shop vac will simulate engine intake vacuum and the inlet pressure should drop as the diaphragm responds to the vacuum and opens the inlet valve. CAUTION HERE: Only do this with a carb that doesn't contain fuel, if any fuel vapors get to the brushes in the vac motor things will get exciting.

 

[NeSurfcaster]

lean low jet? I'm leaning towards carb rebuild. 15 bucks and then you can rule the diaphrams out. If it worked fine then started acting up it's prolly fuel system related.

 

[buzz sawyer]

After you have a carb apart, there are a couple of simple tests that can be done to verify the basic operation of the carb before reinstalling it. First test is to pressure test the inlet, if it will hold about 8psi you shouldn't have any flooding issue with it. To make sure the inlet valve and control diaphragm are working properly, keep pressure on the inlet port and then with the choke and the throttle held open, bring a shop vac nozzle up to the engine end of the carb, the shop vac will simulate engine intake vacuum and the inlet pressure should drop as the diaphragm responds to the vacuum and opens the inlet valve. CAUTION HERE: Only do this with a carb that doesn't contain fuel, if any fuel vapors get to the brushes in the vac motor things will get exciting.

Good info. I solved my problem by installing the newer style needle with the flanged end that fits onto the arm.

 

[Nitram745]

Bar length is irrelevant. The powerhead model is what matters. Sounds like you have found it. You'll probally have to pull the carb to get the exact part number to get the right kit for it. Manufacturers change carbs like musical chairs. Again, the Poulan thread can help you out once you positively identify the carb.

Thank you!

 

[buzz sawyer]

That saw is old enough to be due for a carb kit at least... which may solve the OPs problem

Should have added, it was an old problem. Carb was rebuilt some time ago. I used the newer style needle that hooks onto the arm. When the diaphragm pulls in, it lifts the needle. I don't believe these are not available for the OP's carb.

 

[Nitram745]

Should have added, it was an old problem. Carb was rebuilt some time ago. I used the newer style needle that hooks onto the arm. When the diaphragm pulls in, it lifts the needle. I don't believe these are not available for the OP's carb.
View attachment 839898

Thank you!

 

[SEAM]

I would have quit after 75 pulls

Most of the guys on here would have died of a seizure after 50 pulls...

 

[Nitram745]

Most of the guys on here would have died of a seizure after 50 pulls...

LOL,. I felt like I was going into cardiac arrest....

 

[Nitram745]

Bar length is irrelevant. The powerhead model is what matters. Sounds like you have found it. You'll probally have to pull the carb to get the exact part number to get the right kit for it. Manufacturers change carbs like musical chairs. Again, the Poulan thread can help you out once you positively identify the carb.

Thanks

 

[Nitram745]

lean low jet? I'm leaning towards carb rebuild. 15 bucks and then you can rule the diaphrams out. If it worked fine then started acting up it's prolly fuel system related.

Thank you.

 

[Nitram745]

After you have a carb apart, there are a couple of simple tests that can be done to verify the basic operation of the carb before reinstalling it. First test is to pressure test the inlet, if it will hold about 8psi you shouldn't have any flooding issue with it. To make sure the inlet valve and control diaphragm are working properly, keep pressure on the inlet port and then with the choke and the throttle held open, bring a shop vac nozzle up to the engine end of the carb, the shop vac will simulate engine intake vacuum and the inlet pressure should drop as the diaphragm responds to the vacuum and opens the inlet valve. CAUTION HERE: Only do this with a carb that doesn't contain fuel, if any fuel vapors get to the brushes in the vac motor things will get exciting.

Thanks!