The shop guy thinks it was running lean, and the piston grew in the cylinder. Because it got too hot.
MS461 hard to pull rope
- Thread starter mountainguyed67
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
The shop guy thinks it was running lean, and the piston grew in the cylinder. Because it got too hot.
That’s what I told him.
No honing of a nikasil cylinder!
So this plus head gasket, bearing, and exhaust gasket ought to do it?
D
Deleted member 135597
Guest
Yes that’s the kit. I disagree with the shop about it running lean. The intake side is the coolest part of the cylinder. If it was running lean that damage would be on the exhaust side but worse. Also don’t hone the cylinder, just clean that area up with maroon Scotchbrite. Make sure you get an oem bearing if you change it.
My impression of the location of the scoring was it was caused by debris getting by the air filter, he told me Stihl says sawdust won’t cause that. I didn’t think the cylinder needs honing either, he says there could be aluminum transfer from an overheated piston and it needs to be removed.
A clogged air filter would have it running rich, right. What damage would that cause?
D
Deleted member 135597
Guest
Nothing, just less rpm and eventually carbon build up. Clean up the cylinder and you will be able to tell if theres any transfer.
It was running at less rpm for a time (the day it got squished), cleaning the filter fixed that. And it does have some carbon buildup on top of the piston, and in the cylinder next to the spark plug.
It was the shop saying to replace the bearing. Your thoughts?
It was the shop saying to replace the bearing. Your thoughts?
D
Deleted member 135597
Guest
how much time is on the saw, probably isn't necessary, but is good insurance to change while it's so far tore down. Get the part number for base gasket and bearing from the IPL i sent you and call your local shops, someone should have them in stock
I haven’t kept track of saw hours. I think the best stocked local shop is on the way to the mountains, it would be the closest for loggers to go get parts. A fair amount of logging takes place up there, plus there are firewood cutters, and locals maintaining their own place.
Also needs gasket to put muffler halves back together?
D
Deleted member 135597
Guest
not that critical
drf255
BAD CAD
Many will disagree, but here goes.
Get some muriatic acid. Wash cylinder well with some cleaner, then soap and water. Make a bath of baking soda and some water.
Apply muriatic acid evenly with a Qtip to the intake side. If there is foaming, there is transfer. Make sure it all stops. If you see one small spot continuing to foam, that’s a pit. Stop asap and neutralize the acid. Be careful near top of cylinder by the squishband and by the port edges. Rinse when done, then immerse in baking sod solution for 5 minutes.
Then use purple scotchbrite on some type of cylinder your drill can turn, spray cylinder with WD40, and hone it with the scotchbrite. It will look new when done.
Remember, you have to do a vac test when done. I know it’s only the intake side, but last thing you wanna do is fry it again after all of this work.
Get some muriatic acid. Wash cylinder well with some cleaner, then soap and water. Make a bath of baking soda and some water.
Apply muriatic acid evenly with a Qtip to the intake side. If there is foaming, there is transfer. Make sure it all stops. If you see one small spot continuing to foam, that’s a pit. Stop asap and neutralize the acid. Be careful near top of cylinder by the squishband and by the port edges. Rinse when done, then immerse in baking sod solution for 5 minutes.
Then use purple scotchbrite on some type of cylinder your drill can turn, spray cylinder with WD40, and hone it with the scotchbrite. It will look new when done.
Remember, you have to do a vac test when done. I know it’s only the intake side, but last thing you wanna do is fry it again after all of this work.
Cylinder with a piston is $250+.
I agree with doc. Qtip and muriatic acid over the aluminum to remove it. And then scotchbrite in a drill.
Looks like it was run without the filter for awhile. Or some debris fell into the elbow upon filter removal.
I agree with doc. Qtip and muriatic acid over the aluminum to remove it. And then scotchbrite in a drill.
Looks like it was run without the filter for awhile. Or some debris fell into the elbow upon filter removal.
Do not,I repeat do not do this inside! The vapors are very toxic! Well ventilated area only.
When I went to take it apart there was a gap behind the air filter, that only could have happened with the tree squish. I felled another five trees after that, two foot and bigger. Obviously I didn’t look the saw over good enough after the damage. When I service the filter I do it with the bar pointed up, and still look at it good.
Payson Oberly
ArboristSite Lurker
Had a similar problem, tore down, case was slightly tweaked from a felling incident. Must have rubbed for a while then eventually vi rated into a place it would grab
Similar threads
