I’m not sure what the original problem is/ was.
The shop guy thinks it was running lean, and the piston grew in the cylinder. Because it got too hot.
I’m not sure what the original problem is/ was.
The shop guy thinks it was running lean, and the piston grew in the cylinder. Because it got too hot.
The shop guy thinks it was running lean, and the piston grew in the cylinder. Because it got too hot.
Looks like fines made it past the filter.
Yes that’s the kit. I disagree with the shop about it running lean. The intake side is the coolest part of the cylinder. If it was running lean that damage would be on the exhaust side but worse. Also don’t hone the cylinder, just clean that area up with maroon Scotchbrite. Make sure you get an oem bearing if you change it.
Yes that’s the kit. I disagree with the shop about it running lean. The intake side is the coolest part of the cylinder. If it was running lean that damage would be on the exhaust side but worse. Also don’t hone the cylinder, just clean that area up with maroon Scotchbrite. Make sure you get an oem bearing if you change it.
Nothing, just less rpm and eventually carbon build up. Clean up the cylinder and you will be able to tell if theres any transfer.My impression of the location of the scoring was it was caused by debris getting by the air filter, he told me Stihl says sawdust won’t cause that. I didn’t think the cylinder needs honing either, he says there could be aluminum transfer from an overheated piston and it needs to be removed.
A clogged air filter would have it running rich, right. What damage would that cause?
how much time is on the saw, probably isn't necessary, but is good insurance to change while it's so far tore down. Get the part number for base gasket and bearing from the IPL i sent you and call your local shops, someone should have them in stockIt was running at less rpm for a time (the day it got squished), cleaning the filter fixed that. And it does have some carbon buildup on top of the piston, and in the cylinder next to the spark plug.
It was the shop saying to replace the bearing. Your thoughts?
not that criticalAlso needs gasket to put muffler halves back together?
Do not,I repeat do not do this inside! The vapors are very toxic! Well ventilated area only.Many will disagree, but here goes.
Get some muriatic acid. Wash cylinder well with some cleaner, then soap and water. Make a bath of baking soda and some water.
Apply muriatic acid evenly with a Qtip to the intake side. If there is foaming, there is transfer. Make sure it all stops. If you see one small spot continuing to foam, that’s a pit. Stop asap and neutralize the acid. Be careful near top of cylinder by the squishband and by the port edges. Rinse when done, then immerse in baking sod solution for 5 minutes.
Then use purple scotchbrite on some type of cylinder your drill can turn, spray cylinder with WD40, and hone it with the scotchbrite. It will look new when done.
Remember, you have to do a vac test when done. I know it’s only the intake side, but last thing you wanna do is fry it again after all of this work.
Looks like it was run without the filter for awhile. Or some debris fell into the elbow upon filter removal.
Enter your email address to join: