Silvey Grinders may be going out of business.

[c5rulz]

Well a round grinder square grinding chain?????????????????? I wish you the best and hats off you

My apologies for the confusion, The Silvey 510 is for grinding round chain. My attempt with the Tecomec is to make the vice similar to the Silvey system for round chain.

I have thought about getting a square grinder but of what I cut is very dirty and chains often don't last a half a tank of fuel. Some say semi chisel for dirty wood but I don't care for it and use chisel.

 

[devonhubb]

Does anybody have further information on this device? I don't see anything on their website, nor have I seen pics of one anywhere. I'm specifically wondering if something similar can be adapted to the R2.

Here is a poor pic of it.

 

[Philbert]

Is that a Silvey product? Grinding on the sides of wheels is usually a 'no-no'.

Philbert

 

[madhatte]

Here is a poor pic of it.

Oh, wow, interesting. I would also be a bit nervous about grinding on the side of a wheel but I can totally see how to rig this up. Gonna have to think on it a bit.

 

[madhatte]

I think I may have an idea for how to lash up something like that to use with a bench grinder. Let me cogitate a bit.

 

[devonhubb]

Is that a Silvey product? Grinding on the sides of wheels is usually a 'no-no'.

Philbert

I bought it from Simington maybe 4 or 5 years ago. The bottom corner does the grinding. Just like the top corner when you are sharpening a tooth.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Is that a Silvey product? Grinding on the sides of wheels is usually a 'no-no'.

Philbert

We refer to it as side winding(Winding, like winding a watch) where I work. I grind for a living and it's pretty common and safe to do under certain circumstance. Any under .020 stock removal and it is no problem. The wheel in use looks to be pretty closed so I'm guessing at least an 80? We normally run more open grain wheels to avoid the heat aspect. With adjusting rakers the stock removal would be very small. The advantage is the surface area of the wheel means you can run a lot of parts and keep them consistant. If the arm was lower on that one you could use most of the wheel.

I'm currently doing mine with radii to match the factory set ups.

 

[Philbert]

I grind for a living and it's pretty common and safe to do under certain circumstance. Any under .020 stock removal and it is no problem.

I assume that you are referring to incidental use. With a dedicated depth gauge fixture there could be a lot of wear placed on the side of that wheel, if someone was playing 'catch up' or had a lot of chains to do do commercially. So I am surprised that this design was offered.

The dedicated Silvey HDG-6 used a separate wheel, instead of the side of one intended for square grinding chains, for this purpose:


Your design, of course, also uses the edge of the wheel, as it was designed to be used. Similarly, grinding depth gauges with a basic Oregon/Tecomec/clone grinder uses the edge of the wheel, which others have profiled as well to obtain the factory shape.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Attached is the manual and IPL for the Silvey HDG-6, if anyone is interested in the mechanism.

Philbert

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

I assume that you are referring to incidental use. With a dedicated depth gauge fixture there could be a lot of wear placed on the side of that wheel, if someone was playing 'catch up' or had a lot of chains to do do commercially. So I am surprised that this design was offered.

The dedicated Silvey HDG-6 used a separate wheel, instead of the side of one intended for square grinding chains, for this purpose:
View attachment 475223

Your design, of course, also uses the edge of the wheel, as it was designed to be used. Similarly, grinding depth gauges with a basic Oregon/Tecomec/clone grinder uses the edge of the wheel, which others have profiled as well to obtain the factory shape.

Philbert

We normally run about 3000 -5000 parts on a dress but I assure you there would be more stock and surface than what we are dealing with here. Normally just dress between jobs. There is a whole lot more grinding surface on the side of the wheel than the width, loading of the wheel comes into play here.(burn) All wheels need dressed to cut well and stay cool. That's why a diamond or borazon wheel will last but you get into the heat issues. I guess not a big deal on rakers but it is on the teeth as you well know.

Heck, most of the "dealers" around here don't even mess with adjusting the rakers. There was a little shop that we got several saws cheap because they said the bars were bad because it wouldn't cut, even after they sharpened the chain. We've all seen that.

 

[Philbert]

Normally just dress between jobs. . . . All wheels need dressed to cut well and stay cool.

I can say with confidence, that I am probably one of the 'best dressed' guys here on Arboristsite, even though most of my clothes are old and don't usually match. Regular dressing of the wheels to expose fresh abrasive, in addition to maintaining the profile, was one of my biggest lessons learned for sharpening chain.

Thanks for bringing up the 'open grain' stuff - something I remember from coated abrasives (a.k.a. 'sandpaper'), along with abrasive type and grit size.
There are a variety of wheels available for the 8" Silvey grinders:
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...ding-Wheels/Chain-Grinding-Wheels-8-Diameter/

But very few offered for the Oregon 5-3/4" in the US.:
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...-Wheels/Chain-Grinding-Wheels-5-3-4-Diameter/

Although, more are offered by the manufacturer in Europe:
http://www.tecomec.com/subcategory/accessori_per_motosega_accessori_per_affilatrici/index.htm

It is one of the reasons I experimented with the resionoid wheels:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/resinoid-grinder-wheels.256733/

For commercial grinding applications, you probably have more choices. But putting better quality wheels, even on cheap grinders, and dressing frequently, has worked pretty well for me, even with the limited choices available to me.

Philbert

 

[Skeans]

For the money they charge for a Simington my pro sharp wasn't much more brand new. Simington chain holder isn't as good or as true with holding the tooth and they don't compensate for wheel wear.

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[SierraWoodsman]

Thanks Philbert for the HDG-6 manuals. It's a great grinder for raker / gullet maintenance just never got the manuals for it.


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