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Mastermind

Work Saw Specialist
Joined
Nov 21, 2009
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That's fugly.



Seals on both sides of the bearings.......no they ain't C-3 rated.



More odd stuff......





And last but not least......





We'll fix it up. :)
 
I take it that notch out of the crankcase mating face was someone splitting the case previously with a screwdriver or similar? What's the opposing face like?

Edit: My bad, I see you took pics of both, thought it was two of the same half.
 
What's with the two threaded holes through into the crankcase? Those I don't understand.
 
I to have found sealed bearings in saws, I don't understand that train of thought.

I'm guessing ignorance, although sometimes it can be a case of a little knowledge is dangerous too, eg. some may think they're helping performance by increasing CC compression.

You'd probably get away with a metal shielded bearing as they are a non contact seal, but rubber shields are either labyrinth or contact style so you're relying on a little bit of grease inside the race and eventually......
 
Oh, so those are meant to be there then?

I don't take many Huskies apart, so I've never seen that before, thanks.
 
This saw actually had very little run time on it (thank god) after his "rebuild". I must admit to the JB repair by the front stud, but the rest was not me. This saw was a craigslist purchase from a year or two ago. After looking at it a little I figured it needed to be gone through. It has, for the most part, been sitting on a shelf because I didn't have any faith in it. I sure am glad I sent that to you and not run it any longer than I did. It seemed to run well, but I'm sure it wouldn't have for much longer.
 
I've been stuck with having to buy 2RS bearings before now, but even in the early days i had enough sense to rip the seals out of em.
 
I'm guessing ignorance, although sometimes it can be a case of a little knowledge is dangerous too, eg. some may think they're helping performance by increasing CC compression.

You'd probably get away with a metal shielded bearing as they are a non contact seal, but rubber shields are either labyrinth or contact style so you're relying on a little bit of grease inside the race and eventually......

In this case I'm thinking the "builder" was trying to get away as cheap as possible and had no idea what he was doing. I can't find any markings on these bearings at all. They probably were for a roller skate or something. :laugh:
 
This saw actually had very little run time on it (thank god) after his "rebuild". I must admit to the JB repair by the front stud, but the rest was not me. This saw was a craigslist purchase from a year or two ago. After looking at it a little I figured it needed to be gone through. It has, for the most part, been sitting on a shelf because I didn't have any faith in it. I sure am glad I sent that to you and not run it any longer than I did. It seemed to run well, but I'm sure it wouldn't have for much longer.

Nothing wrong with a little epoxy when used appropriately.
 
This saw actually had very little run time on it (thank god) after his "rebuild". I must admit to the JB repair by the front stud, but the rest was not me. This saw was a craigslist purchase from a year or two ago. After looking at it a little I figured it needed to be gone through. It has, for the most part, been sitting on a shelf because I didn't have any faith in it. I sure am glad I sent that to you and not run it any longer than I did. It seemed to run well, but I'm sure it wouldn't have for much longer.

The JB repair looked well done........ :rock:

It's just sealing a small hole in the oil tank anyway.
 
I think these pics make me shake my head more than anything else.

It's saws like these that we get a lot of Sam. If we are porting the saw anyway we just charge 50.00 extra to take it down to the crank, clean every part and reassemble. That may be why we do so many. :laugh:
 
The JB repair looked well done........ :rock:

It's just sealing a small hole in the oil tank anyway.

You should have seen that bar stud when I got it. It was pushed into the case and the indexing was off. It looked like he had then tried to pull it back into place with the bar nut and knocked a piece out of the case with the stud head. That was when I started scratching my head. Now that I think of it I had to modify the spike too to make that work properly.
 

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