New SpeedPro Kinetic Log Splitter from TSC...

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Voided Warranty...Nope

Everything I've done can be put back to stock in 20 minutes. I removed the safety button all together...1 bolt and 1 cotterpin 1 tiny spring. Does not effect operation at all. I reversed the handle by making a plate to hinge the stock handle from the rear...only alteration from stock is I drilled 2 holes in sheet metal...I hardly think they will void my warr. because of two 5/16" holes in the sheetmetal.
 
It was in 2 different states, I would say bad batch of racks.I think the tsc splitter is faster then even dr and SS.As far as the rack coming out.


Pete
 
Are the rack and pinion considered a wear part? And if so, if the teeth break off, is anyone sure if this will be covered? I know this is an issue on HO chippers.
 
It was in 2 different states, I would say bad batch of racks.I think the tsc splitter is faster then even dr and SS.As far as the rack coming out.


Pete

I'm agreeing with you on the poor heat treat on the rack. I'd bet the serial numbers of the two failures were very close together.

This machine is new and I'm not entirely surprised to learn about the rack issues and where this machine is being built...... and I own one too:msp_wink:
 
Very Fast Ram...

I have noticed from watching SS and DR videos that the speedpro has a somewhat faster ram speed. IMHO there is no need to run this machine at full throttle. I run mine at approx. 1/2 to 2/3 throttle. At this throttle setting it still has a very fast ram speed, it takes less energy to push the engagement arm, it engages the gears easier, it makes little if any difference on split strength, and best of all it sips gas. I used to find that when I got to a big or knotted piece, one that I thought I might have trouble with, that I was habitually walking to the back of the machine and cranking the throttle up, just for that piece. Then I started trying them at the lower throttle setting, and eventually now have broke that habit. I never move the throttle from its medium setting and never have problems. So far so good...time will tell.

And once again...it's towable...that's a must for me. I would have to modify the DR or the SS.
 
They have one at my local TSC store, the running gear portion looked rather weak to me. Just glanced at the machine never took a close look at it.
 
Lumberjackmoe

5 hrs north of bloomington. Reading this thread from the beginning will answer about all you questions. If not then just ask...I'm sure someone will help you.
 
just changed my oil for the first time yesterday after hitting the 6 hour mark. I also noted that i'll finally have to fill it up with gas, the first tank full is finally just about gone. :msp_biggrin:
 
Speedpro log splitter

I just spoke to a rep at Speeco, ( It is now Blunt or Blount International ) Speeco sold out to Blunt. He stated that if anyone would read the warrany they would understand that drilling two 5/16" holes in the cover does void the warranty. I also asked him if he felt that running the engine at 1/2 throttle would be hard on the engine. He said no but, my local small engine repair said that it is. The rep stated that they have had some problems with the racks but just a few. I discussed that the engagement handle being curved like Dozer came up with would be a more positive engagement then the engagement handle on top and trying to engage it with your arm at a near full extention. He did not want to talk about it. I have used one at the TSC store and I ground a few gears while attempting to engage it.
 
Warranty

I know that Speeco/Blount would cry foul on the alternation part of their warranty with respect to holes drilled and handles altered. But if they are having rack failures, the way we have improved the handle placement is a flat out cop out. PERIOD. Any man that would look me in the eye and make that claim is FOS.

As for engine operating speed, I had to tell my employee this morning that mid-throttle is plenty is fast. He agreed and has been splitting all morning. The guys are impressed at the speed and seems to like the performance.
 
I just spoke to a rep at Speeco, ( It is now Blunt or Blount International ) Speeco sold out to Blunt. He stated that if anyone would read the warrany they would understand that drilling two 5/16" holes in the cover does void the warranty. I also asked him if he felt that running the engine at 1/2 throttle would be hard on the engine. He said no but, my local small engine repair said that it is. The rep stated that they have had some problems with the racks but just a few. I discussed that the engagement handle being curved like Dozer came up with would be a more positive engagement then the engagement handle on top and trying to engage it with your arm at a near full extention. He did not want to talk about it. I have used one at the TSC store and I ground a few gears while attempting to engage it.

Lumberjackmoe,

As for your opinion on the engaging efficiency of the OEM's design versus the AS members, it is my opinion that either design exerts enough force the make the mechanism function, i.e. split wood. Our improvements allow for increased operator comfort and speed.

As for "ground a few gears" this is something that is part of the design. Hopefully, our racks & pinions were successfully heat treated to take the wear and tear that's part of the kinetic splitter design. I can't speak for the SS owners but IMO that any rack & pinion splitter will grind a few gears.

Thanks,

Tom
 
Kenetic Splitters

Just started using the DR Rapid Fire: All, except Suzuki engine, made in USA.
The DR uses a tool harden pinion with hardened groves to power its splitting shaft.
I read on the Tractor Supply Model teeth kept breaking on some of the users.
Don't like the idea of teeth on the splitter. When you engage the splitting shaft
the shaft from the engine has to engage into the wheel the teeth are located on.
If it does so, not completely, I can see how teeth break, shear or otherwise need to be
replaced more often than a hardened pinion shaft. Go to Dr Country Products and see
about the shaft I am talking about. Of Course there is a big difference between prices.
The Tractor Supply Model is quite a bit less expensive. But if it breaks what is the down time
worth to you. Right now if you buy Factory Direct From DR Country you get a 3 year warranty.
500 or something off the list price. One year use/don't like return. But that is only factory direct
buying. I do not work for them. I am not advocating one over the other. I am only informing
on what could be three big differences. 1. Engineering 2. Price 3. Warranty
I only used mine two days now. I put some 20 inch ash with knots in it through it
to see just how good it is. Some of the knots were split immediately. Others I had to
hit the stump a couple of times. Others had to be rotated to "hack" around it. But all in all
it was at least 4 times faster than a hydraulic splitter. If I only used straight grade oak, maple,
hickory, no knots, I believe I hit 6X faster. Less gas, less time, no hyd fluids. One set back or
irk I had is, There is no stinkin trailer hitch? WTH with that. I am now in the process of
figuring how to hook one up. I also suggest if you buy the DR you certainly want the
splitting table which is an XTRA $299.00. I guess that is a downer too. It comes with
handles similar to wheelbarrow ones. You will need them to push the thing around.
It weighs in the neighborhood of 499lbs w/tray. One the plus side for some bucks more
you can get a electric start model and put Mama to work.

I noticed at TSC, that they now list a Speeco Kinetic Log Splitter. Looks to be like a DR RapidFire Log Splitter, but I could not find anything on the Speeco page about it. Price isn't too bad either. I had not seen in on their site until today. My local TSC does not have one in stock.

Anyone know anything about this splitter?[/QUOTE]
 
the way we have improved the handle placement is a flat out cop out.

I don't get that.

One look at the design says that was a deliberate decision they made for liability reasons (it forces the user to keep both hands out of the ram area when operated as designed) -- lawyers would eat their lunch if they supported such changes.

Wasn't that long ago there was a thread here with folks #####ing about TimberWolf (I believe, it was one of the premium hydraulic folks) discontinuing an auto-return valve on one of their lines.

As companies get bigger, usually liability increases -- there's an assumption they can do more engineering, and they have more assets to sue for. (Rule #1 of lawsuits: the defendant has to have money to pay your lawyers if they win :D )

If we modify it on our own, at least that's on us (mostly).
 
"I don't get that."

Dalmatian90,

You're not getting that is partly due to my not proof reading my writing. Wordsmith I am not. For that I apologize. Lumberjackmoe's post mentions that the mods made to the handle may result in a more positive engagement with the rack & pinion. If there were to be any failure to either the rack or pinion on a machine that had undergone a handle modification the handle modification would have zero effect on the rack/pinion failure. Changing the handle results in a more efficient/comfortable "feel" for the operator. When I altered my machine I knew that I was making it "more dangerous" and these improvements have consequences.

I hope I have made my point more clear.
 
Really??? Two holes voids warranty???

Well I guess I should have called the speeco representative and asked permission/advice as to where I was going to mount my "Slow Moving Vehicle" reflective triangle at??? Or where I was going to mount my flashing yellow light??? LMAO...I have all kinds of excuses for the two holes. They wouldn't void the whole warranty on a brand new car if I drilled 2 holes in the hood(except for the hood warranty of course). If they void my warranty...so be it. I will deal with it when the time comes...to each there own. If there is a full on recall, I still doubt the TSC people will complain. Odds are it would be a simple part replacement type of recall. Factory warranty is one year...tsc supplies the extended warranty. Again...time will tell.
 
Last edited:
Safety Equipment and Throttle

I might have to agree that bypassing or simply removing the "safety" button makes this machine less safe. But...absolutely no less safe than any other brand of kinetic splitter (SS,DR, and others) on the market. None others have a two hand operation.
Does reversing the handle make it less safe??? If so, then no less safe than any other kinetic splitter that I have seen. They all have there engagement mechanism towards the front of the hoods on there machines. I understand why speeco set up there engagement mechanism the way they did (idiot proofing)...I just feel that I can be responsible enough to operate the machine in the tried and true way. I know that I am responsible for my own actions. Again...to each there own.

As for the throttle position...if you run this machine for any extended period of time, you will reallize that it does not need to be run at full throttle. If someone were to convince me that the engine would be better off running full throttle all the time, #1...they would be very hard pressed to do so, #2...I would seriously look into a "gear ratio" change to slow the machine down. Personally I like getting 6 hours of run time out of a tank of gas.
 
The full throttle issue is not simply about creating enough torque to perform the task at hand. These newer engines need to run at full throttle to ensure proper cooling.


I definately haven't seen any signs of exsessive heat whatsoever (even at 80+). I'd guess that's because the motor rarely pulls from any kind of load. I remember from a previous reply to this thread that someone actually used a tachometer. I believe they said 2700 rpm was there premium operating rpm. I'd guess that is approx 2/3 throttle. I do recall that they also agree that full throttle is not needed.
 
Full throttle or not

The full throttle issue is not simply about creating enough torque to perform the task at hand. These newer engines need to run at full throttle to ensure proper cooling.


I would agree with this for an engine that was under load all the time. For instance, when I'm mowing on my hydrostat riding mower, I'm mowing at full throttle. When I'm just driving around the yard, not under a load, I don't run full throttle.
 
Back
Top