New SpeedPro Kinetic Log Splitter from TSC...

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I would agree with this for an engine that was under load all the time. For instance, when I'm mowing on my hydrostat riding mower, I'm mowing at full throttle. When I'm just driving around the yard, not under a load, I don't run full throttle.

That's your choice, but I prefer not to chance it. I've talked to various OPE dealers and they all say the same thing--run at full throttle ALL THE TIME to ensure proper cooling. This also appears in new owners manuals. Older engines were overbuilt and could take it better. With today's manufacturers trying to make things lighter and keep costs down, we don't find big hunks of engine metal or extra cooling metal anymore.
 
You're not getting that is partly due to my not proof reading my writing

I gotcha now, and I missed in the thread that the handle mods had made the mechanical engaging more efficient. I thought they were simply to bypass the Safety Sallie mechanism (which I agree fully is an overly cautious design for this type of equipment and usage).
 
As for the engine throttle issue, I'd be interested if the manufacturers actually provided specs about RPM and Temperature.

These aren't engines built to exacting quality control tolerances and run only by conscientious (wow that took me a while to spell) operators.

Most folks don't have the tools to check that, but it's also not that far out of the capability of most folks to own...what $200 for a decent tach and an infrared thermometer?

I'd reckon there's a world of difference between a "good" engine coming off the manufacturing line, in 45º weather, run by an operator whose careful to clean the machine of built up dirt and wood chips that otherwise insulate the fins, air filters are clean, carb is cleaned and tuned...and a mediocre engine being run on a 90º day in full sun by someone who just starts-and-forgets his equipment. "Full throttle" is probably based on assuming the latter situations are all true.
 
Ok I have not read through this entire thread on these splitters. I did see the video about splitting an oak crotch and seemed this had a hard time splitting it not to mention don't like the piece flying back and trying to give you a kiss. I see everyone splitting hard wood which is actually easier to split that soft wood is. I have yet to find a video of anyone splitting softwood, like wet cottonwood with one of these. My guess is it will not split it but IDK, so any videos of that around that I missed? Where I live that's most of what we cut as its the most abundant and do not have hard wood here.
 
Warranty

TSC told me that the warranty for the 1st year is their responsibility, after that any extended warranty is a third party responsibility. The gave me the name of the 3rd party but I don't have it handy now.
 
law suit action

We all say now we will be responsible for the modifications that we make to the unit until we get injured. Then there will be 5 or more attorneys standing in line to take the case.
At one time I was selling some very powerful quality pressure washers. The company that I sold for had a 100% libility insurance premium increase in about 1984. One company got sued because the fellow operating the washer was thirsty so he put the end of the wand of the 6 gallon 3,000 psi washer that he was operating in his mouth and pulled the trigger to get a drink and blew the side of his face off. He sued and won.
These companies are just trying to cover their butts.
 
The reason you are supposed to run full throttle is because they don't have an oil pump. There is a dipper that splashes oil to lube the rod and crank bearings. Running at less than full throttle can cause improper lubrication. Just what I have been told by the small engine shop.
 
Full Throttle or Not Full Throttle

I'm perfectly happy with where I run my engine. I'm not a mechanic, but I have had some experience with small engines. You know those engines that have no throttle on them?? I hate them. They have a preset WOT (wide open throttle) set from the factory, with no adjustment. I kringe every time I have to start one of those engines because of the obvious ring,piston and cylinder wall damage that happens everytime it's started at WOT, with zero oil pressure, and zero warmup. It goes against everything I've learned in my 45 yrs.

I never warm up my stihl chain saws at WOT. In fact, now that I think of it, I try not to run my saw at WOT, unless its needed. It's just wasted rpm to me. I'd rather set my throttle where it needs to be for the workload being performed. Imho, if kohler was deadset on there engine running at WOT, they would have set it there from the factory.

I like having the ability to set the throttle on my kohler engine at the desired speed I feel is necessary for the LOAD on the machine that it is attached. I'm not running all day at idle. It is not running at the WOT either.

Starting and warming up at slightly off idle is a tremendous longevity advantage IMHO!!!

But my guess is that if kohler or speeco was to preset a throttle setting from the factory...it would probably be somewhere between 2500 and 3000 rpm, or at about 2/3 throttle.
 
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5 Attorneys Standing In Line...

We all say now we will be responsible for the modifications that we make to the unit until we get injured. Then there will be 5 or more attorneys standing in line to take the case.
At one time I was selling some very powerful quality pressure washers. The company that I sold for had a 100% libility insurance premium increase in about 1984. One company got sued because the fellow operating the washer was thirsty so he put the end of the wand of the 6 gallon 3,000 psi washer that he was operating in his mouth and pulled the trigger to get a drink and blew the side of his face off. He sued and won.
These companies are just trying to cover their butts.


I absolutely agree. The whole reason speeco designed there engagement settup the way they did was to cover there butts. I don't blame them for being extra cautious. But, like someone in this thread said some time ago...I can see, with a two hand operation of this machine, that someone will decide it's easier to have someone else running the machine while someone puts wood in it. That to me is a recipe for disaster.

One bad thing about the "Idiot Proofing" going on today...you can try to "idiot proof" the world all you wish, the actual problem is that the "idiots" have no limits to there stupidity. And the attorneys know this...
 
As a hobbyist I have been splitting wood to heat my home for as long as I can remember.
Being a hobbyist, I split about 5 cords a season for myself and a few cords for the neighbors, 10-20 in rounds typically 18 inches long (stove and insert size).

I started using an Axe, worked myself up to a SpeeCo 28 ton unit 5 years ago.
Not too long ago I got a hold of a SpeedPro to use.
This new splitter is faster than the 28 ton unit, so fast that I have been using it at 1/2 throttle.

Unlike others I like the rear facing handle and its curve where you push down it.
It all comes down to how you operate the splitter.

I appreciated the handle since I do not stand next to or in front of the splitter, Just in case a round kicks out. I want to be alongside the splitter about even with the green safety.
I keep the front of the splitter is one place and let the wood pile up on the tray and then chuck it onto the pile when the pieces are the right size. After a while the front becomes buried in the pile but that is my style of splitting.

View attachment 203120

If you look closely, you can see where I stand and an open area on both sides of the splitter.

As for the green button, you thumb on the left hand can get tired after long runs, but since I pace my self by stopping and creating a pile of new rounds on my side near the rear tire it is not that bad.

Since I live in a residential area the safety is great, I do not have to shut down the splitter when others come to check things out, praying that they do not push down or lean on the on the splitting handle.
 
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Nice Pile of Wood

As a hobbyist I have been splitting wood to heat my home for as long as I can remember.
Being a hobbyist, I split about 5 cords a season for myself and a few cords for the neighbors, 10-20 in rounds typically 18 inches long (stove and insert size).

I started using an Axe, worked myself up to a SpeeCo 28 ton unit 5 years ago.
Not too long ago I got a hold of a SpeedPro to use.
This new splitter is faster than the 28 ton unit, so fast that I have been using it at 1/2 throttle.

Unlike others I like the rear facing handle and its curve where you push down it.
It all comes down to how you operate the splitter.

I appreciated the handle since I do not stand next to or in front of the splitter, Just in case a round kicks out. I want to be alongside the splitter about even with the green safety.
I keep the front of the splitter is one place and let the wood pile up on the tray and then chuck it onto the pile when the pieces are the right size. After a while the front becomes buried in the pile but that is my style of splitting.

View attachment 203120

If you look closely, you can see where I stand and an open area on both sides of the splitter.

As for the green button, you thumb on the left hand can get tired after long runs, but since I pace my self by stopping and creating a pile of new rounds on my side near the rear tire it is not that bad.

Since I live in a residential area the safety is great, I do not have to shut down the splitter when others come to check things out, praying that they do not push down or lean on the on the splitting handle.


Great to hear!!!

Nice big pile of wood!!!
 
well, i've done it again... one of my guys buried the splitter in about 2 cords of wood the other day and it was my job to try to get it out of the pile. so I dragged it up to the shop and put two extra holes in the tongue, I have the coupler under the table now, so it doesn't bury itself. I was still able to drag it around with the truck even in the short position too, I wouldn't tow it anywhere down the road in this configuration since it will hit the back of the truck if you turn sharp enough. the short tongue is great for tossing it in the truck too (although my truck doesn't have a tailgate at the moment)

View attachment 203135

I also hoisted a 26" hickory up with some log tongs and the backhoe. it took two shots, but it went through
View attachment 203140

after we setup the 20T hydro machine to quarter down the hickory as I had about a cords worth of stuff over 24" diameter. Working with my BIL, he was able to quarter the pieces down on the hydro almost as quick as I could run them through the speedpro. after we tried working in tandem on the speedpro. having someone work the splits off the table and toss them into the truck or a bag was very helpful. Next up i'm going to make a rack that'll bolt on to the cradle pieces, so that we have more room for re-splits, working with these huge pieces is a bit of a juggling act as you don't want hem to hit the ground (and have to bend over and pick them up again.)
 
Subaru not Suzuki engine.

My Wife drives a Suzuki SX4. Don't know why it got in my mind when I should have typed Subaru Engine. Sorry.

Just started using the DR Rapid Fire: All, except Subaru engine, made in USA.
The DR uses a tool harden pinion with hardened groves to power its splitting shaft.
I read on the Tractor Supply Model teeth kept breaking on some of the users.
Don't like the idea of teeth on the splitter. When you engage the splitting shaft
the shaft from the engine has to engage into the wheel the teeth are located on.
If it does so, not completely, I can see how teeth break, shear or otherwise need to be
replaced more often than a hardened pinion shaft. Go to Dr Country Products and see
about the shaft I am talking about. Of Course there is a big difference between prices.
The Tractor Supply Model is quite a bit less expensive. But if it breaks what is the down time
worth to you. Right now if you buy Factory Direct From DR Country you get a 3 year warranty.
500 or something off the list price. One year use/don't like return. But that is only factory direct
buying. I do not work for them. I am not advocating one over the other. I am only informing
on what could be three big differences. 1. Engineering 2. Price 3. Warranty
I only used mine two days now. I put some 20 inch ash with knots in it through it
to see just how good it is. Some of the knots were split immediately. Others I had to
hit the stump a couple of times. Others had to be rotated to "hack" around it. But all in all
it was at least 4 times faster than a hydraulic splitter. If I only used straight grade oak, maple,
hickory, no knots, I believe I hit 6X faster. Less gas, less time, no hyd fluids. One set back or
irk I had is, There is no stinkin trailer hitch? WTH with that. I am now in the process of
figuring how to hook one up. I also suggest if you buy the DR you certainly want the
splitting table which is an XTRA $299.00. I guess that is a downer too. It comes with
handles similar to wheelbarrow ones. You will need them to push the thing around.
It weighs in the neighborhood of 499lbs w/tray. One the plus side for some bucks more
you can get a electric start model and put Mama to work.

I noticed at TSC, that they now list a Speeco Kinetic Log Splitter. Looks to be like a DR RapidFire Log Splitter, but I could not find anything on the Speeco page about it. Price isn't too bad either. I had not seen in on their site until today. My local TSC does not have one in stock.

Anyone know anything about this splitter?
[/QUOTE]
 
All Kinetic Splitters

View attachment 203350View attachment 203351View attachment 203352
Hi all and good day to you. I have had my Rapid Fire for about a week now. Stinking rain and wind here on the shores of Lake Ontario kept me from doing much splitting. On Sunday my wife stacked as I split with the Rapid fire. We punched out 3 face in about 45 minutes. Ash, Hard Maple, Chestnut, Beech... Even some Y Ash Stumps that took 2 or 3 hits to get through. I could split as fast if not faster than she could stack. Why I used a 27 Ton Hyd splitter for years now has me saying; "Why did I never hear of Kinetic Splitters before I spent $1500.00 bucks on that Troy Bilt I bought." Normally it would take 2 hours minimum for me to get three face split. Now, if I just keep letting it pile up and stack later, I can split in two days I figure what used to take most of a week. Time, Gas, Fluids all good saving.s Esp. Time. Ya the Rapid Fire was 800 bucks more than the Speeco but with that $800 I got a three year warranty. One year hands on test with no BS return if I don't like. Discount of $540 of normal list price. Instant Telephone tech Support. Again if one desires, for $200 more you can get a electric start. On the Rapid Fire the table is wide enough you can pull a 20 1/2 when split over to the side and finish up on the other 1/2. I put as large as a 24 inch stump on it which I had to turn over 360 degrees for a second hit to split. The splitting surface is 5 or 6 inches below my belt line and I am 6ft tall. One hand operation with the engagement handle facing forward right on the front top of the cowling. As I continue to use and learn I will post what I am sure will show itself as issues but right now I am pleasantly surprised on how well Kinetic Splitters work.

Reviews from TSC Site: of the Speedco Kinetic Splitter
14 total reviews at TSC Website. These are the ??? Reviews showing some dissatisfaction.
All the rest of the reviews are Positive.
Anyone wish to comment on why some folks are having issues with the "TEETH" on this machines gearing?
speed pro
October 8, 2011
1.well this log splitter was fast till it broke the teeth of the plunger shaft returned the first one got a second one now the bearing busted off and broke a tooth off so gonna return this one and think about getting a different brand maybe next year theyll be better made but this splitter is awesome before it breaks.
2.Speedpro The King
October 4, 2011
I just bought this the other day filled it with oil and gas and went to town. I have never used a splitter before besides a sledge and wedges. This thing works awsome blowing through oak, birch, locast, walnut and some kind of wood I can't identify. I probably split just under a cord in about an hour and a half. I hope it holds up for years to come the only thing I could find at fault is the one axle is welded on at an angle so it would probably wear tires if it was transported alot.
3.Speed pro splitter
October 1, 2011
Well, let me start by saying this thing works awesome, at least before 5 of the teeth broke off (after the 10th log) the rack rendering it useless for the group of guys that are coming to help me split tomorrow.
I went to TSC to report the problem only to find out the only other one of these this store sold came back for the same reason.
At this point I am not going to say anything negative until I see how TSC and SpeeCo help me resolve the issue. I'm going to hope that it was a hardening issue and not a major engineering fault.
If this becomes a repeat problem, I will have to return it and go hydraulic.
One other thing they will have to repair is the right axle that is welded on crooked. If left this way it will eat tires if I tow it anywhere.
More to follow....
4.Wonderful Machine!
September 18, 2011
This is an AWSOME Splitter! It will work the Stacker to death! It's so simple!
The ONLY Problem I have is the use of regular Bolts, half of which were Missing, Loose and/or rusted badly?
The Engine was not set squarely, so one belt was loose?
All of these problems are simple to fix, I don't know who assembled this unit? Tractor Supply or Speeco?
Either way, I WOULD RECOMMEND this SPLITTER!
SUPER FAST, TO EASY TO USE! A lot less bending over the Hydraulic Units!
5.bad purchase
October 11, 2011
got it home and do not operate like the preview, just grinds the gears. all the money i paid i cant even use!
 
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SpeedPro Log Splitter Thread

It is just me or isn't this thread about Speeco SpeedPro Log Splitters?:msp_biggrin:

nysparkie, thanks for sharing your insight on the DR machine, but this thread is on SpeedPro machine.
 
This is from the First Post on this subject:
New SpeedPro Kinetic Log Splitter from TSC...


I noticed at TSC, that they now list a Speeco Kinetic Log Splitter. Looks to be like a DR RapidFire Log Splitter, but I could not find anything on the Speeco page about it. Price isn't too bad either. I had not seen in on their site until today. My local TSC does not have one in stock.

Anyone know anything about this splitter?


It is just me or isn't this thread about Speeco SpeedPro Log Splitters?:msp_biggrin:

nysparkie, thanks for sharing your insight on the DR machine, but this thread is on SpeedPro machine.
Seems to me, just saying The First Post compared one Speedco, against another, RapidFire. Or am I just imagining things?
Is it that he wasn't comparing one to another? Did I misread his intentions? I also see on this thread where folks are comparing
Super Split to Speedco to RapidFire. Guess I am the only one who gets hammered for comparing. Wonder why?
 
nysparkie,

Please believe me, I'm not hammering, other than there is a DR specific thread for that machine.

Your are correct sir that there have been posts from DR owners, IMO this thread is now focused on the Speeco SpeedPro machine. If I'm speaking out of turn I apologize.
 
You are more correct than I. The subject matter did turn to specifically SPEEDCO. Button/Handle fabricating. Some operating idiosyncrasies. Just didn't recognize it as being specific to SPEEDCO. I guess I and the Super Splits will have to go elsewhere to compare KINETIC SPLITTERS - the Good and Bad of each.
nysparkie,

Please believe me, I'm not hammering, other than there is a DR specific thread for that machine.

Your are correct sir that there have been posts from DR owners, IMO this thread is now focused on the Speeco SpeedPro machine. If I'm speaking out of turn I apologize.
 
I guess I and the Super Splits will have to go elsewhere to compare KINETIC SPLITTERS - the Good and Bad of each.
To hell with the thread police and wannabe AS hall monitors, compare whatever splitters you like. Heck, compare this speedpro (S or SP or SC or TSC or B - for Blount, who own Speeco) with a DR, SS, Logrite (so, are we going with L or LR for them ?), Flackhill (F?), wood wolf (WW?) all you want and may the best splitter/proposition win.
Tell you what, whoever wins this heat advances to the finals against the winner from the Hydraulic section (I bet it's a TW-6 with auto cycle and 4-way wedge) and then the winner can be granted the highest honour - the unofficial AS member endorsement. I say unofficial to appease assorted twitchy-fingered sponsors 'not impressed' with such direct comparisons with or endorsements of, competing brands that are not site sponsors (free speech comes at a cost, doncha know).

Let the games begin, and may the 'best' splitter prevail before we run out of bandwidth arguing over the judging criteria.

On the flywheel side of the comp' my money is on the SP for value and the way they covered their donkeys but still left it easy enough to mod back into something productive (at the owners risk).
 
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