Do Chainsaws Cut Better Closer to the Motor?

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happytule

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This is probably so basic you will all ridicule me, so spit on me, throw rotten veggies, pluck my beard.

But I'm pretty sure that my chainsaws both cut better at the base of the bar than at the nose.

Is this because there's more weight, from the motor, and my hands pushing down?

Is this why those bucking dogs were invented?
 
You're also a lot closer to the point of torque, which is saying the point where all the torque is coming from.
 
You'll find that as the chain gets further from the sprocket it gets blunter and loses torques. It sharpens up again as it gets closer to the clutch area due to cation exchange capacities and the fact that Magnesium in the case is a positively charged cation. Randy told me...
 
I have found that with a dull chain on backwards, the incorrect mount bar (usually a 36" with a 40cc saw) diesel fuel mixed with 2 stroke oil @ 37.5/1, no air filter, and my left hand on the trigger, I get the best cuts precisely 3-3/4" from the saw head. Works for me...individual results may vary!:dizzy:
 
Okay...this is the point where I'm supposed to start scolding members for not being more serious and answering a newbie's question.

But I can't...I'm laughing too hard. You guys made my whole morning and I had to give up altogether on trying to drink coffee and read your posts. I'm spending way too much time wiping spray off of the monitor and keyboard and my wife came in, very concerned, thinking I was choking to death.
Now, be nice!

Happytule...the answer to your question is YES. Mostly. And welcome to AS.
 
This is probably so basic you will all ridicule me, so spit on me, throw rotten veggies, pluck my beard.

But I'm pretty sure that my chainsaws both cut better at the base of the bar than at the nose.

Is this because there's more weight, from the motor, and my hands pushing down?

Is this why those bucking dogs were invented?

Those bucking dogs are for getting force (by twisting the power head) pushing the bar and the chain into the wood. I am not sure if this twisting action is the torque mentioned in prior posts or not, probably not. There is no such possible twisting the saw to get more down force if there is a gap between the power head and the work piece, wood.

To get a fair comparison I would think you need no dogs and let the saw slide against the log vs hold it off. I often like to use the top of the bar which will send the chips away and even make it lighter if used in a vertical position can't say there is much if any penalty but a small saw in small limbs with no dogs seems to work the easiest jammed against the log not sure it is faster just easier. Not sure why I seem to find my pole saws have less hop and grab when using the part of the chain which would be considered the top as it has to go around the nose before heading the the drive sprocket.

The edge of a bar isn't straight it is slightly curved so in a theoretical way there would be friction going around this slight curve not present near the drive sprocket.

There is no doubt a reciprocating blade works best when the tool is held firmly against the work. Might also compare to a band saw.
 
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