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Hey guys. I fell into a 2165 recently. It's a 2000 if the serial number is an indication. So it has the plastic intake on it? Can I get a newer rubber intake with the clamp and simply swap it out with this carb? I haven't checked to see which carb it has. Hope it can feed a 77cc BB it.

OK, I checked the IPL and it seems like I just swap out the old part for the "EPA" slip on part.
 
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Wow...some deal with AS, huh?! Before the site went down, that fake Linkbucks Trojan had effected my login and I couldn't come in here for three weeks. I wrote about that just before the site went down and I guess the Linkbucks Trojan was involved/used in the attack.

Anyhoo......I have a request. One of three carbs I want to rebuild for my 80/90, has the governor and washer-the rest don't. I rebuild carbs in my kitchen....one of the perks of being an old bachelor I guess.;) A few yrs ago I ordered an HS136c Tilltson through Bailey's for my Husky. I waited a YEAR and the word I got was that Tillotson of Kansas decided to quit making the carb....thank you Tillotson.:p So back then I put the governors and washers I had in a little plastic bag....which I then hid from myself. As you might guess...it's still hid really well.

AFAIK, these are all interchangeable as long as they're Tillotson. Anyone have any of these lying around for purchase or trade??

Kevin
 
Chris J. said:
I've been seeing some blue top & AF covers on some Jonsered chainsaws on feePay, most recently a 670 Super.

Jonsered 670 Super Chainsaw | eBay

Does anyone here know who makes those?

**********************************

JONSEREDS JONSERED 49 SP PARTS OR REPAIR SEMI PRO CHAINSAW PARTS | eBay

If Jreds aren't common in your area, the above linked 49SP might be an OK (good?) buy. I very rarely find Jred saws in/around Houston, but I have a glut 49SP parts saws.
Click to expand...

I was the winning bidder of this blue top 670, Absolutely loved it, until my brother borrowed it, refused to give it back and made me sell it to him.:(
 
The old ones still for sale seem to concentrate on the east coast like up around Maine, spiking again into Michigan and of courser where I live in the PNW. With the Internet, it doesn't really matter now where you live for parts availability. I found a guy back east who used to be a Jonny dealer and had quite a few NOS parts. But he was crazy to deal with and sent me a boat prop instead of the Jonny parts I ordered. And then after I had about hundred into the 'boat prop', waited forever, he refused to send me the parts until the ' boat prop' arrived back safely. So....the notion of trust was all on my shoulders. Uses email, but doesn't read them, wife does.....in the end, I got the NOS parts, but never again with that guy.

Really, the best source of parts and saws can be from fellow members and non-running donors on the bay. Some of the asking prices now on the bay for the big Jonny's are insane, but pale in comparison to the big Husky's like the 2100. If you have a 2100 that can start or did a few yrs ago, has most of its parts, you can start the bidding@$399. And from what I've seen, you'll get it....most 2100's that are truly decent hover around $500. Someone last yr had a 2101 new in the box that had been in his closet...never run. I quit watching when it was around $2,000 because it made my stomach hurt.:rolleyes:

Kevin
 
I picked up an 801 last night. I have it running nicely but it's not oiling. The oiler s not something I'm not used to and wondered if any of you had an IPL and possibly a shop manual for the 801 you could share with me.
I did get a small Clymer manual from one of the guys over on Beg for manuals thread but that was it.
Thanks
 
fossil said:
I picked up an 801 last night. I have it running nicely but it's not oiling. The oiler s not something I'm not used to and wondered if any of you had an IPL and possibly a shop manual for the 801 you could share with me.
I did get a small Clymer manual from one of the guys over on Beg for manuals thread but that was it.
Thanks
Click to expand...

I think the 80 uses the exact same engine, so the oiler would probably be the same. I have a IPL for the 80, but it's a copy. Recently though, I scored an original SM for the 80. I could scan pages related to the oiler off that?

Kevin
 
fossil said:
That would be very much appreciated Kevin.

Thanks

Tim
Click to expand...
OK Tim...here tis. Back in the 80's a Jonny dealer copied the IPL for me on the 80 he had.....so that's the one copy. And the other is right out of the 80 SM with translated English. The one page is all they show for the oiler. You'll need Adobe to see the files. Let me know if ya need anything else.

Kevin
 

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Tim,
I think you'll love the saw. I started using a 80 as a back-up saw when I was loggin' in smaller stuff back in the day. I found that I was always picking up the thing whenever the wood was small enough. At the time I thought it was just a novelty..having a smaller saw like that against the Husky 2100. I've come to learn that the 80 and 90 do most of the work now and I save the Husky 2100 for the big stuff. But then I'm not loggin' everyday like then and parts would be a hassle making them purely commercial saws again. I don't think there's a spits worth of difference between the 801 & the 80 on paper, but I've never had the 801. Some of the guys here have had all of them and could tell ya.

Finding that original 80 SM was a real hoot...never thought I'd see one again. Your oiling problem might just be some of the O-rings and then turn up the output. Unlike the Husky which uses a pin to make output low or high, this saw you can fiddle with. I tired running the oiler at max and ran out of oil way before I was out of gas...backed off a little and it suits me much better. I've never had any oiler trouble except for a few of those O-rings and I've run the 80 since the late 70's.

Kevin
 
Thanks Kevin. Jonsereds aren't exactly common around me but I know they were used a lot in Ontario back when logging was going full tilt.
I may have found the oiling problem, or at least part of it. I had a good fell around the tank and the hose from the filter section is off at the pump. I may fill it completely with oil and see if it oils with inlet nipple covered. I hope I can make a tool to reattach the hose so I don't have to split the cases.
I notice in the manual that it calls for a threaded tool to pull the pump assembly out. It looks like a really fine thread. Any tips on pulling that pump without that tool? I removed the hex plug and the adjusting screw but can't hook the pump out and I don't want to damage it.

I have the saw running nicely. As I read on AS, it does have considerable compression and feels pretty stout.
 
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fossil said:
Thanks Kevin. Jonsereds aren't exactly common around me but I know they were used a lot in Ontario back when logging was going full tilt.
I may have found the oiling problem, or at least part of it. I had a good fell around the tank and the hose from the filter section is off at the pump. I may fill it completely with oil and see if it oils with inlet nipple covered. I hope I can make a tool to reattach the hose so I don't have to split the cases.
I notice in the manual that it calls for a threaded tool to pull the pump assembly out. It looks like a really fine thread. Any tips on pulling that pump without that tool? I removed the hex plug and the adjusting screw but can't hook the pump out and I don't want to damage it.

I have the saw running nicely. As I read on AS, it does have considerable compression and feels pretty stout.
Click to expand...

Tim,
It's been yrs since I pulled the pump out and replaced all the O-rings. I don't remember any particular problem. I'll tell ya what though and since I am working on saws today... I have an old donor 80 that I bought off ebay. Turns out the seller lied, had the saw underwater and the reason it seemed to have "good compression" by pulling the cord, is from all the muck in the crankcase! So not very much was salvaged...but what I can do is try to retrieve the oiler and report back? I have nothing to lose and I'd like the oiler assembly if possible, anyway.

Kevin
 
Real1shepherd said:
Tim,
It's been yrs since I pulled the pump out and replaced all the O-rings. I don't remember any particular problem. I'll tell ya what though and since I am working on saws today... I have an old donor 80 that I bought off ebay. Turns out the seller lied, had the saw underwater and the reason it seemed to have "good compression" by pulling the cord, is from all the muck in the crankcase! So not very much was salvaged...but what I can do is try to retrieve the oiler and report back? I have nothing to lose and I'd like the oiler assembly if possible, anyway.

Kevin
Click to expand...

If you do, I would like to hear about it.
 
fossil said:
If you do, I would like to hear about it.
Click to expand...


Tim,
Ask and ye shall receive..lol Conventional wisdom from the PO would indicate that they used needle-nosed pliers to get the oiler assembly out-I could see the scars. I tired that but a decent pair wouldn't fit in there. So then thinking my local hardware has a decent supply of metric fasteners, I went down there. I think it's an 8mm alright, but really fine thread-somewhere between .5-.8. Nothing down there that fine. I had a really good metric thread pitch tool, but it was stolen a few yrs ago. Otherwise, I could tell ya exactly what pitch it is. So....I screwed the olier adjustment screw back in and pulled the assembly out with that. Showing in the pic is the pulled oiler and the needle-nose pliers I used. If you can't find a long hex bolt of the right pitch, this might be the only way. I don't like to maul stuff though, so I won't recommend this method.
 

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fossil said:
That thread pitch looks pretty unique. Thinking a bit more, I think I'll lasso the adjusting bolt with some string or Dacron fishing line and try to pull it out that way.
I will let you know how it works.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it could be rare....but probably not proprietary. Yup, if you can get a 'choker' on that puppy to hold tight, you got it made. The only thing holding that assembly is the friction of the O-rings themselves......all of a sudden and the thing just pops. Yeah, I'd really like to know if the 'choker' works and take a pic of it if it does!

Kevin
 
Real1shepherd said:
Yeah, it coulet the oil ine hd be rare....but probably not proprietary. Yup, if you can get a 'choker' on that puppy to hold tight, you got it made. The only thing holding that assembly is the friction of the O-rings themselves......all of a sudden and the thing just pops. Yeah, I'd really like to know if the 'choker' works and take a pic of it if it does!

Kevin
Click to expand...

Tried the choker. The fishing line broke. I resorted to the needle nose pliers and it popped out easily. Now to figure a way to get the oil line hooked up without having to split the cases.
Thanks again for leading the way.

Tim
 
fossil said:
I picked up an 801 last night. I have it running nicely but it's not oiling. The oiler s not something I'm not used to and wondered if any of you had an IPL and possibly a shop manual for the 801 you could share with me.
I did get a small Clymer manual from one of the guys over on Beg for manuals thread but that was it.
Thanks
Click to expand...
So Fossil, where are the photos?

Lee
 
fossil said:
Tried the choker. The fishing line broke. I resorted to the needle nose pliers and it popped out easily. Now to figure a way to get the oil line hooked up without having to split the cases.
Thanks again for leading the way.

Tim
Click to expand...

Hmmmm....I still think it's a good idea sans the correct tool....which would have to be the correct threaded puller. I have some really fine stainless wire on my work truck that might have held as a choker. I think I'm gonna go down to Fastenal and see if they might have a bolt in that thread. I'm not sure on the oiler line without seeing a pic...what you're up against. You know they make those 'fish lines' for replacing fuel lines in tanks, right? I have one(metal ring on one end, hook affair on the other) ...but maybe in your case you don't have access to use this?

Kevin
 

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