Another Bore Cut?

[Ambull01]

I've been reading the USFS pdf documents to educate myself. I'm on Chapter 4 now and ran into something that's a bit confusing. I'll probably never use a bore cut, I'll leave that to the pros. All the things I've read lead me to believe bore cuts are usually used for heavy leaners and are cut parallel to the hinge. Then I saw and read this which has thrown me in a loop:



Using the guide bar’s tip, bore vertically at 90 degrees to the holding wood (fi gure 4–14).

Why is it showing the bore cut at a 90 degree angle?

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Just went and found that document. The reason for the bore in that situation is to check the soundness of the wood you are about to cut into. They go on to say DO NOT cut into your hinge and watch the chip color coming out. It is to help ensure you don't have a rotted center that blows up on you as you start the back cut.

At least that's what I got out of it.

 

[Ambull01]

Just went and found that document. The reason for the bore in that situation is to check the soundness of the wood you are about to cut into. They go on to say DO NOT cut into your hinge and watch the chip color coming out. It is to help ensure you don't have a rotted center that blows up on you as you start the back cut.

At least that's what I got out of it.

Oh yeah, you're right. Reading comprehension lol. I thought they were showing that hinge felling technique.

Well everything makes sense now. Thanks

 

[Marshy]

What document are you reading?

 

[Ambull01]

http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfpubs/pdf06672805/ch04.pdf

 

[Evanrude]

I do this from time to time on suspect trees. Usually oaks that have a broken hollowed limb up above, sometimes the whole tree can be hollow.

BTDT! When I started cutting, I had one that had maybe 3" of wood all the way around (24"+ tree). Never did understand how it fell so nice. Got pretty lucky on that one!

 

[Ambull01]

I do this from time to time on suspect trees. Usually oaks that have a broken hollowed limb up above, sometimes the whole tree can be hollow.

BTDT! When I started cutting, I had one that had maybe 3" of wood all the way around (24"+ tree). Never did understand how it fell so nice. Got pretty lucky on that one!

This would seem to be rare to me though. After all, you've already done the face cut according to the pic. You would have known the tree was rotted from that unless it's only decayed on the opposite side.

 

[Evanrude]

This would seem to be rare to me though. After all, you've already done the face cut according to the pic. You would have known the tree was rotted from that unless it's only decayed on the opposite side.

I understand what you're saying. It doesn't necessarily have to be centered though. I do the test for rot bore before the face anyway.

 

[Ambull01]

I understand what you're saying. It doesn't necessarily have to be centered though. I do the test for rot bore before the face anyway.

Okay, your way makes sense lol. Do the test before doing the face cut to be sure.

 

[broman78]

Not quite what the drawing shows but this could be a good cut to add your skillsets.

 

[Ambull01]

Not quite what the drawing shows but this could be a good cut to add your skillsets.

Yep, that's the one I saw. Seems pretty cool. I would probably screw it up though.

 

[HuskStihl]

I've been reading the USFS pdf documents to educate myself. I'm on Chapter 4 now and ran into something that's a bit confusing. I'll probably never use a bore cut, I'll leave that to the pros. All the things I've read lead me to believe bore cuts are usually used for heavy leaners and are cut parallel to the hinge. Then I saw and read this which has thrown me in a loop:

View attachment 377705

Using the guide bar’s tip, bore vertically at 90 degrees to the holding wood (fi gure 4–14).

Why is it showing the bore cut at a 90 degree angle?

If you are new to, or uncomfortable with boring technique, be careful with the above technique. It is called a vertical bore, and will kick back right at u'r face if you have u'r technique wrong a little. A horizontal bore, with the bar flat will kick back away from you, as well as transecting the wood fibers in the orientation the chain was designed for

This is a horizontal bore

The first cut here is a vertical bore, notice it is a little "jumpier" as the chain is ripping rather than cross cutting

 

[rwoods]

I believe I would leave the tongue and groove cutting to Palm & Tree Service. I don't cut palm trees but IMO it is a dangerous gimmick as it appears to have no true hinge. Ron

 

[Ambull01]

If you are new to, or uncomfortable with boring technique, be careful with the above technique. It is called a vertical bore, and will kick back right at u'r face if you have u'r technique wrong a little. A horizontal bore, with the bar flat will kick back away from you, as well as transecting the wood fibers in the orientation the chain was designed for

This is a horizontal bore

The first cut here is a vertical bore, notice it is a little "jumpier" as the chain is ripping rather than cross cutting

I'm not going to bore anything lol. I like my face and legs just the way they are.

 

[Gologit]

For leaners this cut is a good option. I've had good luck with the V version. It seems easier to line up the cuts than the T.
HuskStihl and rwoods both give good advice but for a more detailed explanation on falling techniques check out the Forestry and Logging threads. There are people there who make their living cutting trees.

 

[Ambull01]

For leaners this cut is a good option. I've had good luck with the V version. It seems easier to line up the cuts than the T.
HuskStihl and rwoods both give good advice but for a more detailed explanation on falling techniques check out the Forestry and Logging threads. There are people there who make their living cutting trees.

Nice idiot proof diagrams. Yeah the T looks complicated. Would have to use the tip portion of the bar to cut whereas you could possibly use the spikes/dogs/whatever you call them to pivot from face cut edge to triangle point.

I've been reading stuff there but most of that crap goes right over my head. Small baby steps for me.

 

[CJ1]

For leaners this cut is a good option. I've had good luck with the V version. It seems easier to line up the cuts than the T.
HuskStihl and rwoods both give good advice but for a more detailed explanation on falling techniques check out the Forestry and Logging threads. There are people there who make their living cutting trees.

I have been extremely impressed with the triangle cut and even dropped 4-5 trees and tried to get them to chair. Could not make them split. I was also impressed how long the tree held on the stump with very little wood left. The T cut was not as impressive and you could make it split very easy. All of these trees were on the edge of a field and leaning anywhere from 5-20 deg [guessing] and at least 24" across. I now use the triangle cut when any tree is next to a building just so it does not have a chance to split. CJ
Gologit, isn't the triangle also referred to as a Coos bay cut?

 

[skippysphins]

I just took a class s 212 for wild land fire .
If you try this cut you may always use it .
Chris

 

[Gologit]

Gologit, isn't the triangle also referred to as a Coos bay cut?

Some people call it that, some don't. If you listen to and believe local PNW legend there are about ten different variations of the CoosBay and everyone has their favorite. They also swear up and down that their version is the only "true" Coos Bay.
I use the V as a rule. I call it a CoosBay. Works for me.

 

[Ambull01]

I just took a class s 212 for wild land fire .
If you try this cut you may always use it .
Chris

The T or Triangle?