What Knot Do You Use For Pulling Trees Over?

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Pretty big balls for his first post

Yeah, was thinking that too since he was not in the thread. Had he been here with a horse in the race, I could understand. Hopbrau confronted several of us here, but since he considered all of us "ladies" and not only me, then I knew he wasn't talking about me, but you guys. LOL! JK! JJ! :D

But y'all can't blame a guy for sayin' what some of y'all were thinkin'. LOL!

StihlRockin'
 
Sorry, I'll leave...didn't realize it was such a sensitive bunch.
Sorry I hurt feelings


Sent from my iPhone
 
Its tough to keep everyone on topic. Theres always that guy that wont let things go or just gets up and decides to push buttons on the internet today. Just take it and move on
 
If you are setting a rope from the ground, a lot of times you cant choke off the top without it catching other limbs. Pulling on those limbs can put torque on your hinge. If you want to choke the top, running bowline. If you cant get a clean choke on it, tie the rope off with a timber, cow hitch or such above the cut. This will retain the proper directional forces.
 
If you are setting a rope from the ground, a lot of times you cant choke off the top without it catching other limbs. Pulling on those limbs can put torque on your hinge. If you want to choke the top, running bowline. If you cant get a clean choke on it, tie the rope off with a timber, cow hitch or such above the cut. This will retain the proper directional forces.
Can I just use a bowline down at the cut?
 
Can I just use a bowline down at the cut?
You could. I find that its best to have a knot that once its preloaded it wont slip at all. Nothing like the rope slipping a touch or a twig breaking free when pulling on a sketchy tree.
 
I don't know about you guys but I use a quadruple whipplestich backed up with two half hitches...I prefer to use dental floss as a pull line also, gotta be unwaxed though. The downside is that this only works well on Tuesdays..
 
I don't know about you guys but I use a quadruple whipplestich backed up with two half hitches...I prefer to use dental floss as a pull line also, gotta be unwaxed though. The downside is that this only works well on Tuesdays..
As long as I don't die on a Monday or a Friday or the first week of the month Im good with whatever might work
 
WTF did I just read. Some of ya's need to take a dose of you wife's Midol.

Anyways, I'm no knot expert or "tree professional" but one knot I like is the figure 8 with a loop or double loop. It can take a lot of load and it's still easy to get undone. Might take more time to tie if you have to tie it repeatedly though.
 
Del_

That is very interesting, never thought of that. Now for you and any others who would care to comment on that picture and the method...

Anyone see any drawbacks to that knot/pull style?

I do see a positive and that's when it hard to isolate going over a limb or around the trunk to then set up a slip knot to go to that spot. The pic shows you only have to grab a fork or some spot that is strong and tie off on the bottom.

StihlRockin'
 
Del_

That is very interesting, never thought of that. Now for you and any others who would care to comment on that picture and the method...

Anyone see any drawbacks to that knot/pull style?

I do see a positive and that's when it hard to isolate going over a limb or around the trunk to then set up a slip knot to go to that spot. The pic shows you only have to grab a fork or some spot that is strong and tie off on the bottom.

StihlRockin'
Thats exactly what a said a few posts back
 
In the fire service we went away from using the bowline. At my station we went to using the figure 8 family for everything. The figure 8 family of knots are easy to tie and even when loaded they are still a breeze 99% of the time to untie if you had to. Just some input from the firefighters side. That maybe yall could try.

Ditto, I can tie a figure 8 on a bight faster than a bowline or a figure 8 follow through in about the same amount of time. Both are easy to undo and wont come undone if loaded and unloaded repeatedly. I use figure 8's and clove hitches/ half hitches for just about everything.
 
25 years in the tree biz and never had a bowline come undone. I could almost as easily had tied a running figure 8 but have never seen the need. The only time I use a figure 8 is a figure 8 follow through for a rock climbing saddle. Tree climbing it's a VT climbing hitch in a spliced eye tress cord and an anchor hitch on a biner. You would not want a figure 8 on a biner due to the slop.

We come from two different professions with two different needs. In the fire service a bowline is not a life safety knot due to the possibility that it could come undone when repeatedly loaded and unloaded. For hoisting tools and such it is fine but then so is a clove hitch in most circumstances. In any rescue situation it's a figure 8, even with a carabiner.
 
We come from two different professions with two different needs. In the fire service a bowline is not a life safety knot due to the possibility that it could come undone when repeatedly loaded and unloaded. For hoisting tools and such it is fine but then so is a clove hitch in most circumstances. In any rescue situation it's a figure 8, even with a carabiner.

Yep, thats what they teach us for working at heights and confined space retrieval. YMMV
 
Thats exactly what a said a few posts back

Oh, I see now:

"If you are setting a rope from the ground, a lot of times you cant choke off the top without it catching other limbs. Pulling on those limbs can put torque on your hinge. If you want to choke the top, running bowline. If you cant get a clean choke on it, tie the rope off with a timber, cow hitch or such above the cut. This will retain the proper directional forces."

I wasn't sure if that was the same thing we're talking here, but Del_ introduced a picture, whereas when I read your post I skimmed over it and really didn't get the meaning. Thanks for the reply; that helps a lot and I agree.

StihlRockin' :)
 
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