661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?

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Crap!!!

thanks to a PM from another member. I just realized that I was reading the flash point of Stihl wrong. It's actually 222C NOT 222 F So that would be 432F. SOO Belray is actually right in line with Stihl ultra syn on that spec. I was still trying to figure out why Belray was so much higher than all the others I looked at including stihl. But actually Belray AND Stihl are way higher than the rest.

I still don't quite understand how important flash point is. But Belray being in line with Stihl is comforting. heh

Flash points -

Belray h1r - 395 F
Stihl ultra syn - 432 F

Husky - 75C or 167 F http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/huse/huse2010_euenapen/huse2010_euenapen_cms-s002_.pdf

woodland pro - 210 F http://www.baileysonline.com/msds_sheets/PDFs/wp_synthetic.pdf

shindaiwa red armor - 163F http://www.shindaiwa-usa.com/getattachment/9ee40453-a8f5-4647-988b-b20ebe5afe03

amsoil - 216 F http://www.amsoil.com/msds/atp.pdf

lucus - 175 F http://lucasoil.com/pdf/TDS-2-Cycle-Full-Synthetic-Snowmobile.pdf

motul 710 2t - 190 F - https://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/38/710 2T (GB).pdf?1324312083

motul 800 2t - 525 F - https://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/77796/original/800_2T_Factory_Line_Road_Racing_TDS_(GB).pdf?1379696151

maxima K2 - 240F - http://www.maximausa.com/product/formula-k2/

maxima 927 - 420F - http://www.maximausa.com/product/castor-927/

Schaeffer's 9006 2t - 187F - http://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/248-9006-msds.pdf

Klotz R50. - 550°F

This is the most popular ones I've heard of. I'm sure there are others. But if you wanted to stay close to Stihl's 432 number, the only one's you'd consider trying so far would be the Belray H1R and the Maxima 927.
 
I would love to only use VP

One of my buddys was pickin up some stuff for his blast cabinet he found on CL last week thats about 45 minutes from me and he saw a station that all the pumps all said VP on them..idk what the deal is with that , and hell would freeze over before i drive that far for gas once a week...but i never saw that before , he sent me a picture of the station but i think i deleted it..ever seen one before ?
 
One of my buddys was pickin up some stuff for his blast cabinet he found on CL last week thats about 45 minutes from me and he saw a station that all the pumps all said VP on them..idk what the deal is with that , and hell would freeze over before i drive that far for gas once a week...but i never saw that before , he sent me a picture of the station but i think i deleted it..ever seen one before ?
Nope not around here....i buy 91 octane E free gas now through November when the marina is open, its like 10 minutes away. But during the winter the best i can buy is E10 Shell VPower. I can get Cam2 race gas but i don't need 100 octane fuel and i don't want AvGas. But we burn through it fast enough so its not a problem but i use E free as often as i can.
 
It's not necessarily incorrect. For the engineered lifespan and emissions regulations its sufficient in Stihls eyes.

If you want the best possible chance of extending the life of your saw, use a ratio with more oil. Afterall it's cheap insurance.
will run 40:1 from now on. Thanks for the advice
 
Motul 800 OR. Viscosity at 100°C (212°F) ASTM D445 15.5 mm²/s

K2. Viscosity cSt @ 100°C 13.58 Flash Point 240°F

Klotz R50. Viscosity @ 100°C 16.30 cSt Min 21.90 cSt Max 18.20 cSt Typical. Flash point 550°F

Even then viscosity doesn't necessarily mean you will loose lubrication at those temperatures. It's easy to over think things, as none of are true experts on the subject. I've ran most of the oils you listed and a few you didn't, they all work fine. However I see less wear with the thick race oils, but they're not a must especially in weed whips or blowers.
 
motul 800 2t = 525°F

Focus more on film strength/viscosity than flash point.
He had read the factor in Celsius again. Easy to make a mistake with all he has goin on but he is doin a great job. I myself think the lower flashpoints ignite more readily and produce a tad more energy. I think the 100% based ester oil have alot better film strength due to the ester molecules bonding themselves to the metal almost like a barrier
 
He had read the factor in Celsius again. Easy to make a mistake with all he has goin on but he is doin a great job. I myself think the lower flashpoints ignite more readily and produce a tad more energy. I think the 100% based ester oil have alot better film strength due to the ester molecules bonding themselves to the metal almost like a barrier

Very easy to get C and F mixed up.

Doubt you get more energy with lower flash points, but who knows. Not only do the molecules bond with metal, they are super small/dense and even in size, they also penetrate into the metal a little.
 
My buddy is a pro moto x & Sno x racer.
He also owns and operates a small off-road supply business. He's been on 2 wheels longer than he's been walking.
They've ran every oil you can of.
I went in a few years ago to get a qt of 927 or K2. He told me to leave that sh!t on the shelf and handed me a qt of 800 2T. Haven't used anything since.

06' Winter X Games
 
Thanks for doing the leg work. Pretty much what I expected. I still stand by 32:1 for a ported saw, no less than 40:1. I personally run 32:1 in everything. It's cheap insurance.
With the amount of mix l run through some of my saws each year, by not running expensive 100% ester oils leaves me enough money in my pocket to replace the entire saw. So l do not find expensive oil cheap insurance. lf your capable of cleaning a spark plug, piston crown and exhaust port occasionally their are far better oils to use than full synthetics in any case. There are SOME benefits to synthetics but the negatives far out way the positives. Why would you want to run an oil that promotes blow by in any case. Semi synthetics are where it is at kinda the best of both worlds. l know l go against the grain making this statement and sit in a flame suit as l write this post but there are just such better options out there to increase service life of a saw...full synthetics do quite the opposite (but they are clean). lt's simply a myth to believe they offer better protection. Marketing has a lot to do with this.
 
With the amount of mix l run through some of my saws each year, by not running expensive 100% ester oils leaves me enough money in my pocket to replace the entire saw. So l do not find expensive oil cheap insurance. lf your capable of cleaning a spark plug, piston crown and exhaust port occasionally their are far better oils to use than full synthetics in any case. There are SOME benefits to synthetics but the negatives far out way the positives. Why would you want to run an oil that promotes blow by in any case. Semi synthetics are where it is at kinda the best of both worlds. l know l go against the grain making this statement and sit in a flame suit as l write this post but there are just such better options out there to increase service life of a saw...full synthetics do quite the opposite (but they are clean). lt's simply a myth to believe they offer better protection. Marketing has a lot to do with this.
So what do you use?
 

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