40 - 45 cc limbing saw

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241 if you wanted to spend the loot , if not a 421 is a good choice.


None of them are much lighter or less bulky than a 550xp or 346xp, and they give up a lot of power. The handling when limbing will suffer from the inboard clutch design.

I really don't see a need for any saw between the really light MS200 (not 200T)/339xp, and the 346xp/550xp.

If your 50cc saw is a MS261, 5100S or 5105, the need may be present though, as I wouldn't want to use those for limbing.....

I use my 339xp only for thinning saplings and cutting thicker bruch, never for limbing larger trees.
 
for the money on the used market, poulan s25cva

It's a tophandle from the olden days but not as extreme a tophandle as ones made today. As such it feels in between a rear handle and top handle in your hands. Comfy, decent antivibe, plenty of snot to them, plenty! mag case pro saw construction. And can be found used for reasonable.
 
241 if you wanted to spend the loot , if not a 421 is a good choice.
I agree with 241 muffler mod and reset the m tronic (I learned how to on here) and its a beast puts a bullet in my bosses 250 I get 3 disc cuts to his one and a half but his is stock so it might not be sayin much


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I just bought a Homelight Super EZ off ebay. 160 psi and looks pretty good - reputable seller and says it runs strong. Made an offer of $105 he accepted. I don't know if it will fit my need but I was wanting an older Mac in my stable anyway so I didn't necessarily buy it for my lightweight limber but who knows maybe it will work out?
 
I'm trying to decide on a 40 - 45cc limbing saw. I realize that 40 is small for a limber but I need something smaller for a certain species I fall frequently where my 346XP and P5100S are larger (and heavier) than needed. I'm not getting old but my back hasn't gotten the memo, so I gravitate toward the lightest saw for the job.

I do have a Stihl 025 which is a 45cc but it just never has impressed me much - I realize it's a consumer grade saw but it's rather anemic for its weight IMO. Are any of the newer smallish saws using newer technology to good effect? What saw do you recommend for this cc class? I am not a brand man I own 5 or 6 brands so I don't care about the badge, just the capability and features of the particular model.

The only saw I have looked at is a CS 2139T top handle. I realize it's mainly a climbers saw, and I have never owned a top handle saw, but do any of you 2139 owners think it would make a decent ground saw for smalls limbs 8" to 10" and less?

i like your idea to get a top handle. once you start using one it will likely become your most used saw. that being said, the jonsereds 2139. is not a great saw and would be one of my last choices for a top handle. they do not balance well in the hand and will wear you down if you use them for a prolonged period. look for a top handle that has the carb behind the handle. my favorites at present are the echos. the new husqvarna looks good too. then there are the stihls. the pro grade 201t costs a lot of money but they also have some less expensive clamshells. i haven't used the 193 but folks here speak well of them. i reccomend a 12" guide bar. it's just right for limbing and nimble.
 
My only gripe about a top handle (and I love them) is the need to change wheels on the chain grinder to accomodate the smaller chain. If its just a quick limbing job on a small tree that is on the ground, I will pick up a 40 or 50cc saw.
 
I don't know, IMO a limbing saw doesn't get much better than a 346xp.
I like a limbing saw with some good power, sawing hardwood limbs off flush takes a fair bit of power, if you want to do it with some kind of speed.

My limbing saw is a 2260 with a 16" bar :)
 
My only gripe about a top handle (and I love them) is the need to change wheels on the chain grinder to accomodate the smaller chain. If its just a quick limbing job on a small tree that is on the ground, I will pick up a 40 or 50cc saw.

maybe so, but top handles don't need to be sharpened as often. they tend to stay out of the dirt. typical tree removal, you climb with a top handle and perform as much "limbing" as possible in the tree. then if you can't safely drop the tree you chunk it down with a 70cc saw. it there's a place to drop it you bail and do that. then when you're dicing everything up on the ground, that's when you dull your chain. and another thing about a 12" top handle, you only have 22 cutters to sharpen.
 
I don't know, IMO a limbing saw doesn't get much better than a 346xp.
I like a limbing saw with some good power, sawing hardwood limbs off flush takes a fair bit of power, if you want to do it with some kind of speed.

My limbing saw is a 2260 with a 16" bar :)

Yes, the "small cheap limbing saw" is a misconseption. Limbing saws need snappy trigger response, and the power to keep the chain speed up.
 
None of them are much lighter or less bulky than a 550xp or 346xp, and they give up a lot of power. The handling when limbing will suffer from the inboard clutch design.

I really don't see a need for any saw between the really light MS200 (not 200T)/339xp, and the 346xp/550xp.

If your 50cc saw is a MS261, 5100S or 5105, the need may be present though, as I wouldn't want to use those for limbing.....

I use my 339xp only for thinning saplings and cutting thicker bruch, never for limbing larger trees.
Try the 241 C and see for your self its a cool little agile saw.
 
Yes, the "small cheap limbing saw" is a misconseption. Limbing saws need snappy trigger response, and the power to keep the chain speed up.
You really need to try a saw with lo pro/narrow kerf chain. It requires much less power to move through the wood.

I think this is where the disparity of opinions comes from, where those who use only full 3/8 feel that a much larger displacement saw is required. Conversely, I can't quite imagine why anyone would put a 16" or shorter bar on a 50cc saw to cut limbs, when a good 40cc saw with lo pro will fly through that.
 
You really need to try a saw with lo pro/narrow kerf chain. It requires much less power to move through the wood.

I think this is where the disparity of opinions comes from, where those who use only full 3/8 feel that a much larger displacement saw is required. Conversely, I can't quite imagine why anyone would put a 16" or shorter bar on a 50cc saw to cut limbs, when a good 40cc saw with lo pro will fly through that.
I'm telling you the 241 is my go to saw for small limbing . Amazing control of the bar and chain.
 
My only gripe about a top handle (and I love them) is the need to change wheels on the chain grinder to accomodate the smaller chain.

I've been hand filing for years and like duke said this saw wouldn't see much dirt. Not sure what I'm going to do now with all the great input I have a list. I limbed with my 346XP again yesterday like I have hundreds of times and because my back wasn't hurting at all I felt like I don't need a lighter saw. But during my next bad back day I'll be wishing I had a lighter saw even if it's a little slower. I'll be referring back to this thread routinely until I decide thanks to everyone for the great input.
 
Yes, the "small cheap limbing saw" is a misconseption. Limbing saws need snappy trigger response, and the power to keep the chain speed up.

Exactly why I like the 2260. Revboost is definitely noticeable limbing softwoods. That and 3/8 chain like all the rest of my saws.
I always thought my 372 was snappy, but running it back to back with the 2260 you notice a difference!
 
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