I wish you were local, I have a saw like that that's been giving me fits getting it running...I've kinda given up on it for the winter..The only part of the Power Mac 6 that is difficult is the fuel filter and fuel line in the tank. Much easier than a Mini Mac.
Mark
It just sounds like you have an air leak somewhere, maybe a crankshaft seal. Those saws aren't hard to give a pressure test to..I tested the check balls in the oiler and they work the way they are supposed to in a one way fashion. While I was at it, I replaced the oil line which worked out. In addition, I adjusted the needle lever height and sealed the carb and intake manifold gaskets with sealer. The pos still won't run correctly. It smokes and if I point the bar towards the ground, it races, and when I tip the bar back to the horizontal, it stalls. That has to be a sign of something. I will probably move on to the Super XL12.
I tested the check balls in the oiler and they work the way they are supposed to in a one way fashion. While I was at it, I replaced the oil line which worked out. In addition, I adjusted the needle lever height and sealed the carb and intake manifold gaskets with sealer. The pos still won't run correctly. It smokes and if I point the bar towards the ground, it races, and when I tip the bar back to the horizontal, it stalls. That has to be a sign of something. I will probably move on to the Super XL12.
The clutches are not the same from a Super EZ to a XL12. Do this test. Take off bar chain and clutch cover on XL12. Turn the clutch drum by hand. It should turn super free by hand. If the engine tries to turn too, clutch drum bearing is dry. I always lube them with hi temp wheel bearing grease. If it's already free, clutch springs are weak and will need replacing.The chain will not stop even in a slow idle.. so, I will replace the clutch or see if the clutch off the Super EZ will work. I might go ahead and get a new sprocket as well. I only spent $10 on the thing and it runs like a freight train.
I will film a video and post it in the near future.
The Super EZ saws have carburetor problems, took me awhile before I found a good one for mine. If you can turn in the low speed screw all the way and it doesn't affect the running then you have other problems, like an air leak. Those saws have lots of places for air to leak, might want to pressure test it too.
A Palmer and Okie, thank you.
I might just buy a pressure tester. The idle screw is turned all the way in and it is still running at a low rpm. It appears the tab is bent. (this looking bent is common when looking at the tab on most of the HDC carbs) Need to fix that. As far as adjusting, I can give it another try after I repair the tab. I didn't really have a problem installing the carb despite the tight confines. I am not sure what the needle lever height should be, should be level with the casting, go to this link for info if it's a HDC carb: http://www.walbro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/HDCseries.pdf and under the circuit plate, I replaced the screen and lock ring, but I had no idea there was supposed to be a check valve in there. The check valve is not serviceable and might be why I have to replace a carb sometimes?? I think maybe I seen somewhere awhile back on this site where a guy described testing of the check valve. Also if the carb is flooding remove the needle and use a q tip to clean the seat.
Here is the link to Walbro carb service manuals if not a HDC: http://www.walbro.com/service-manuals/
Compression... I don't have a tester. However, of the saws I have pulled cords, this one is hardest to pull but nice and easy when the plug is out. There cylinder and piston from what I can see are in very good shape... better than my other saws.
The saw under full throttle runs well and the saw responds well to adjusting the high speed screw. The issues are at idle and low speed.
I will go ahead and do the pressure test after I buy a pressure tester (I use a mityvac, pressure and vac tester but you can devise a blood pressure bulb and gauge) and devise some sort of flywheel puller. In the past, I usually pry up on it and whack the nut on the end of the crankshaft but I need a puller. Thanks again.
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