You can’t look at the rotor to really tell anything. Homelite made it super confusing, see pic.
Questions about some old saws
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You can’t look at the rotor to really tell anything. Homelite made it super confusing, see pic.
The only part of the Power Mac 6 that is difficult is the fuel filter and fuel line in the tank. Much easier than a Mini Mac.
Mark
Mark
I wish you were local, I have a saw like that that's been giving me fits getting it running...I've kinda given up on it for the winter..
bg147
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks, everyone. I will do more work on the oiler to see if that is an issue.. I am sure it is. I will drain the tank and run it plus I can test the check valves. The carb kit I bought is the standard one for the Walbro WA carbs... it is the K10 and the girl at the shop came up with the same one I did. I will check for an air leak as well. Would an air leak take place between the plastic intake, which the carb is mounted to, and the crankcase? Someone mentioned to replace that gasket, but I think I might just seal it with some rtv or whatever. It is not my goal to make this a big hobby. I just wanted to mess around with some old saws because the experience with my Super 2 has been great... but that was a family saw, and this stuff is unknown.
The Craftsman was not my first choice to work on, and I probably should have junked it, but I tackled it because it was the newest. Live and learn.
Thanks again.
The Craftsman was not my first choice to work on, and I probably should have junked it, but I tackled it because it was the newest. Live and learn.
Thanks again.
The Craftsman would have been my first choice because they are fairly easy to work on. The oiler is the problem on them but there are a few good ones out there..
bg147
ArboristSite Lurker
I tested the check balls in the oiler and they work the way they are supposed to in a one way fashion. While I was at it, I replaced the oil line which worked out. In addition, I adjusted the needle lever height and sealed the carb and intake manifold gaskets with sealer. The pos still won't run correctly. It smokes and if I point the bar towards the ground, it races, and when I tip the bar back to the horizontal, it stalls. That has to be a sign of something. I will probably move on to the Super XL12.
It just sounds like you have an air leak somewhere, maybe a crankshaft seal. Those saws aren't hard to give a pressure test to..
bg147
ArboristSite Lurker
I will go ahead and do that. Thank you.
Loosen the chain or take it off and test it's reaction.
Put the chain side plate back on before operating (just as protection to yourself in case the clutch comes off)
Kinda sounds like a air leak when you can point it different directions and the engine runs different and a hint of such is if the engine changes runs symptom as the chain is loose or tight and might even run ok with no chain installed.
I've seen them run ok no chain, idle good etc, but install chain and set it's tension and no good run or idle.
Put just enough tension on the clutch side crank that the clutch side seal leaks due to being dried out. (and the crank bearing or bushing is till ok)
But no bar oil and smoke don't sound like air leak??
If a pressure/Vac test is ok, I would say a bad carb. (every once in awhile I run into a carb that is bad deep internally and just won't ever go. (and I'm usually good at kitting and repairing all types of carbs but sometimes I run into a contrary itty bitty carb that makes me feel really weak upstairs even when I know it's actually a bad carb and another carb runs ok) Sometimes I can find a generic carb (from China)on ebay once I have the correct part number for like $10 with free shipping that is good for a run test.
Sometimes just letting a POS Poulan/Crapsman chainsaw rest for a few days helps both you and the saw, just walk by it resting on the floor and give a a Go to heck look and a light kick, really seems to help them come around especially after you have about as much money into one as a new one costs.
and remember the POS Poulan/Crapsman are really good for experience. (next time you see one)
In answer to the above question, yes, under the carburetor there is a place that can leak air but I wouldn't use RTV sealant. Use something that is more fuel resistant like Permatex Motoseal or Dirko sealant. They're both fuel resistant when correctly applied. Those Craftsman saws are easy to test for a leak, just put a piece of flat rubber between the carb and intake and between the engine and muffler, about 6 psi of air into the sparkplug hole and see if it leaks down or not. I've devised a sparkplug with the center taken out of it and a small piece of copper tubing epoxied into it and connect your air hose to it. I use a blood pressure bulb to put air into it and a gauge hooked to it.
bg147
ArboristSite Lurker
Thank you. I split the crankcase to replace the main seals and I figured I would replace the bearings as well. Well, the bottom line is I gave up on the saw and just salvaged the new parts, carb, fasteners and junked the rest. I started to hate the thing and this was supposed to be a fun little hobby. On to bigger things.......
The Homelite Super XL12 runs like a top after the carb rebuild, new fuel line/filter, and cleaning/gapping of the points. When I was reinstalling and rotating the flywheel by hand it actually fired on me and the muffler smoked.
The only other saw I have ever used is my Homelite Super 2 with the 12" bar. This Super XL12 is a beast and frankly, I am a bit scared of it. I had no idea it would be as powerful as it is. It is a totally different animal than the little Homelite.
The chain will not stop even in a slow idle.. so, I will replace the clutch or see if the clutch off the Super EZ will work. I might go ahead and get a new sprocket as well. I only spent $10 on the thing and it runs like a freight train.
I will film a video and post it in the near future.
The Homelite Super XL12 runs like a top after the carb rebuild, new fuel line/filter, and cleaning/gapping of the points. When I was reinstalling and rotating the flywheel by hand it actually fired on me and the muffler smoked.
The only other saw I have ever used is my Homelite Super 2 with the 12" bar. This Super XL12 is a beast and frankly, I am a bit scared of it. I had no idea it would be as powerful as it is. It is a totally different animal than the little Homelite.
The chain will not stop even in a slow idle.. so, I will replace the clutch or see if the clutch off the Super EZ will work. I might go ahead and get a new sprocket as well. I only spent $10 on the thing and it runs like a freight train.
I will film a video and post it in the near future.
The clutches are not the same from a Super EZ to a XL12. Do this test. Take off bar chain and clutch cover on XL12. Turn the clutch drum by hand. It should turn super free by hand. If the engine tries to turn too, clutch drum bearing is dry. I always lube them with hi temp wheel bearing grease. If it's already free, clutch springs are weak and will need replacing.
bg147
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks for the tips. They will come in handy.
When I opened the SXL12 up.... I guess it is an SXL 12, it says Super XL12 on the tag, one of the clutch shoes was broken off. So, I bought one off eBay for $8.50 and the saw works great. As I stated, I will take a video but will wait for the Super EZ to be completed and I am just waiting on a rebuild kit for it. These Homelites seem to be the saws to focus on due to a number of reasons.
When I opened the SXL12 up.... I guess it is an SXL 12, it says Super XL12 on the tag, one of the clutch shoes was broken off. So, I bought one off eBay for $8.50 and the saw works great. As I stated, I will take a video but will wait for the Super EZ to be completed and I am just waiting on a rebuild kit for it. These Homelites seem to be the saws to focus on due to a number of reasons.
bg147
ArboristSite Lurker
If the low speed screw is turned all the way in and the saw continues to run, does that generally mean there is an air leak?
The Super EZ auto is smoking, will not idle, and the carb is flooding.... but I assume this is to all of the pulls, and the low screw when turned all the way in has little impact.
The Super EZ auto is smoking, will not idle, and the carb is flooding.... but I assume this is to all of the pulls, and the low screw when turned all the way in has little impact.
The Super EZ saws have carburetor problems, took me awhile before I found a good one for mine. If you can turn in the low speed screw all the way and it doesn't affect the running then you have other problems, like an air leak. Those saws have lots of places for air to leak, might want to pressure test it too.
Just few EZ tips: (from hands on experience)
Assuming compression is Ok. 100 psi minimum. Preferably around 140 psi or above for a stronger running saw engine but 've seen the EZ's run and cut ok at 90-100 with a 14-16 inch bar when all else is good.
Air leaks on a EZ: When checking a EZ for air leak check around the jug to crankcase. If leaking try tightening the 4 1/2 inch nuts first. If still not sealing replace the gasket. It's also common for the EZ compression release valve to leak some air pressure when pressure testing. (just hold you thumb over the hole or seal with a rubber plug when pressure testing)
If pressure tests are good, no leaks at the crankshaft seals or at the jug to crankcase and slow leakage at the compression release then it time to inspect the fuel system and carb.
I've had about a 90% success rate kitting the EZ carbs. (9 out of 10 will kit ok after a soak in 50/50 mix of warm water and white vinegar and using low pressure air to blow out the mixture, but do not direct inject air pressure into little holes in the carb because you can do damage to the carb. (keep the air nozzle backed off away from the carb if using over 3 lbs of air pressure, If it's a Walbro carb (HDC) you can find good carb reference re-build tips at the Walbro site. If you have installed a carb kit correctly and she don't adjust correctly it's time for the pressure test, if you get the crankcase sealed and compression is over 90 lbs and it don't perform correctly you most likely have a carb that needs to be replaced.
Also some HDC carbs run correctly at about 5/8 turn out and be running correctly and rich instead of the recommended 1 1/4 turns, just be careful and not set the H jet too far in at the lean running area.
Also the L HDC carb jet will not adjust correctly if the saw idle SCREW is turned in to far because the saw is running mostly on the intermediate jet hole instead of the L jet) Each time the iding is reduced with the idle SCREW the L jet needs a slight tweak check because the carb is transferring idling mixture to the L jet only instead of the both the L jet and the intermediate jet. When kitting the carb make sure these 3 holes in the carb body are not clogged per the Walbro instructions.
Summary: Sometimes a HDC carb L jet can appear to not be adjusting correctly at first test because the idle SCREW is turned in too far and the carb is running on the intermediate jet hole. (and the H jet is turned out too far for rich setting and the engine is flooding and the H jet may have more affect on idling speed than the L jet. (and nothing actually wrong with the carb, its just incorrectly adjusted during the first run tests)
The Walbro HDC EZ carb is not user friendly when being re-installed due to the carb needing to be tilted at about a 45 degree angle to re-connect the throttle linkage by hit and miss, mostly miss due to not being able to see the throttle tab alignment underneath the carb when the carb is at idle position of the butterfly and then the 5/16 mounting screws must be already in place in the carb body requiring several turns of the wrench. I take a small tag wire and tie the throttle linkage on the carb at the wide open position and then I take a drill bit about the size of the throttle linkage wire and carefully hand ream the hole in the carb tab at a 45 degree downward angle so as the hook in the throttle linkage wire has easier access for a re-connect when the carb is tilted and you can actually see the throttle wire and the carb tab hole for alignment re-connect when the throttle tab on the carb tied is wide open and then install the saw in a vise with good visual lighting and use a 5/16 ratcheting gear wrench then cut the tag wire that is holding the throttle linkage wide open after the 5/16 screws are secure and remove the small piece of tag wire.
Stay calm on the first attempts and you will get the hang of it and the next Walbro EZ carb procedures will be lots easier.
bg147
ArboristSite Lurker
A Palmer and Okie, thank you.
I might just buy a pressure tester. The idle screw is turned all the way in and it is still running at a low rpm. It appears the tab is bent. Need to fix that. As far as adjusting, I can give it another try after I repair the tab. I didn't really have a problem installing the carb despite the tight confines. I am not sure what the needle lever height should be, and under the circuit plate, I replaced the screen and lock ring, but I had no idea there was supposed to be a check valve in there. Compression... I don't have a tester. However, of the saws I have pulled cords, this one is hardest to pull but nice and easy when the plug is out. There cylinder and piston from what I can see are in very good shape... better than my other saws.
The saw under full throttle runs well and the saw responds well to adjusting the high speed screw. The issues are at idle and low speed.
I will go ahead and do the pressure test after I buy a pressure tester and devise some sort of flywheel puller. In the past, I usually pry up on it and whack the nut on the end of the crankshaft but I need a puller. Thanks again.
I might just buy a pressure tester. The idle screw is turned all the way in and it is still running at a low rpm. It appears the tab is bent. Need to fix that. As far as adjusting, I can give it another try after I repair the tab. I didn't really have a problem installing the carb despite the tight confines. I am not sure what the needle lever height should be, and under the circuit plate, I replaced the screen and lock ring, but I had no idea there was supposed to be a check valve in there. Compression... I don't have a tester. However, of the saws I have pulled cords, this one is hardest to pull but nice and easy when the plug is out. There cylinder and piston from what I can see are in very good shape... better than my other saws.
The saw under full throttle runs well and the saw responds well to adjusting the high speed screw. The issues are at idle and low speed.
I will go ahead and do the pressure test after I buy a pressure tester and devise some sort of flywheel puller. In the past, I usually pry up on it and whack the nut on the end of the crankshaft but I need a puller. Thanks again.
I use a steering wheel puller (kinda heavy duty type) and two long (I think they are 10/32 steel machine screws about 2 1/2 inches long) snug them down tight using spacer washers around the head of the screws thru the puller in the existing starter dog holes after removing the starter pawls. (from memory) Watch when removing the starter dog pawls for small lock washers under the bottom of the screws and orientation of the springs. After the screws are tight tighten the center puller bolt and peck the puller center bolt with a hammer and leave the flywheel nut installed but loose so as the end of the crank threads do not get damaged. A braided rope thru the spark plug hole can be used to lock the crank from turning. (or remove the muffler and go thru the exhaust port)
You might even think about pressure test first without removing the flywheel since you do not have a puller, because it's quite common for the jug to block nuts to be loose and a leak around the base of the jug. You will have to grind down and narrow a 12 point box end wrench to get too some of the jug nuts if you see soap bubbling. (again just a hint from memory) If no bad pressure leaks are seen watching a gauge no need to remove the flywheel. Watch on the clutch side, I think I remember a small chain oiler metal ring that can fall off the crankshaft if this end of the crank is tilted down and not be noticed after the clutch is removed from the crank. (think it drives the oil pump by friction fit)
A leaking gasket at the bottom of the jug to block really causes idle issues. (and the crank seals seam to very seldom leak unless disturbed)
Stay calm with the EZ repairs the EZ saws are really worth the effort and built for the long useful life when properly repaired. I have some that are around 40 years old and still going strong that I use as firewood and trim saws) I bought a real good EZ carb from flea bay awhile back for like $12 and it ran ok without doing the kit. (got lucky and I was careful when shopping for such, seen that the screws were not mutiliated) A KNOWN good spare EZ carb is a good thing to have, especially for testing for saw issues.
bg147
ArboristSite Lurker
That makes sense. I will buy a cheap tester and check for leaks. At some point, I will need the ability to remove the flywheels on these things. Thank you.
No need to buy a pressure tester, just make one. All you need is a couple of feet of fuel hose, a tee fitting, a pressure gauge, and a blood pressure bulb. Just tee the gauge into it. I had all that stuff in my garage except the blood pressure bulb which I bought for around $4.
I also think that a compression tester is a must if you're gonna hobby around with chainsaws or any small engines.
On many non-recessed flywheels they can be pulled without a puller, just loosen the nut and strike the non-magnet edge with a hammer. Just be careful that you don't hit the fins. They usually pop right off.
I also think that a compression tester is a must if you're gonna hobby around with chainsaws or any small engines.
On many non-recessed flywheels they can be pulled without a puller, just loosen the nut and strike the non-magnet edge with a hammer. Just be careful that you don't hit the fins. They usually pop right off.
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