Huztl FarmerTec 070 Build Thread with upgrade info and completed saw

[Bedford T]

This is out of our manual. Know it all, the world has too many.

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[Bedford T]

So what happens in your dream world where you are right and the world is wrong if they don't have the tool? That tool does not indicate how it would keep the pin from slipping down in the cylinder, it just unscrews the decomp. No tool required there sport.

For anyone who attempts this build in the future, the decompression valve is installed with the cylinder mounted to the case.


There is a special tool for this. See the picture taken from.the service manual with part number listed above the images. View attachment 691335

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[Nothinghead]

Wow! This took a turn I wasn't expecting!


Let me clear up that I wasn't being arrogant, just helpful. You didn't seem to know about the decomp tool so that told me you hadn't seen the manual. Just thought I'd offer it up. No judgment....

The tool works because it allows you to keep the eclip on the shaft during install. This prevents the shaft from falling anywhere.

I know this because I just did it with a homemade tool.

As for the business card, you misunderstand me.

The coil has two metal arches. They need to be gapped properly to the magnets on the flywheel. This gap is done with a business card. The thickness of a business card is often used for this on lots of engines.

I only unscrewed two screws... Didn't really disassemble anything. Take a look at yours next time you have the flywheel off. That orange box is sealed up good.


Again... Not being hostile or judgemental here. No need to call names. Not being a know it all. I just have a few of these saws in front of me built by Stihl and have been tearing them down and building them for a few weeks here.

 

[Nothinghead]

I've had these for about a month now and have been trouble shooting and addressing some issues.

I ordered some huztl parts and had some of the same questions as you.

 

[Nothinghead]

Here's a photo. You'll notice it has a hole in the center to accept the pin while mounted to the decomp body.

 

[Bedford T]

You said
Additionally, it doesn't sound like you all are working from the full size service manual.

If you read you would have had the correct information. That kinda stuff is worse than name calling. Like we are idiots and you are here to straighten things out. You came looking for information because this is the only place it's complete.

That tool, I bet, don't have one, does nothing to hold that pin from dropping. It covers it so what. The problem is the pin dropping when you remove the eclip, it would have to have muscles.

Before you post please be sure what you say is accurate, you are not doing to well so far. If you would have bothered reading the partial manual you posted above the cylinder is pulled off and they used the tool, because of the pin. You beat your chest, done in place, give me a break Cinderella.

You are welcome to add accurate info but you are not

View attachment 691491 Here's a photo. You'll notice it has a hole in the center to accept the pin while mounted to the decomp body.

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[Nothinghead]

I wasn't beating my chest at all, but maybe now I will.

So my gut reaction was to take a video proving my process accurate. I've done it already so I know it works.

Then I realized after thinking about it that I don't actually care if you believe me or not. Your loss. It's only a few extra bolts to take the cylinder off anyway.


I'm sorry I stepped into your little power trip. I thought you were aggregating information on these saws, but clearly I was wrong.

I found this post via a Google search. It didn't offer the information I needed. It's an incomplete volume on these saws. I hoped to add some more pieces to the puzzle for everyone but you don't seem to want it.

 

[WolfMann]

I'll help change the subject...

 

[WolfMann]

Here are a couple service bulletins I found posted on a different site. They go into detail on carb tuning for the 070/090. I thought it made for a pretty good read.

 

[Nothinghead]

Here are a couple service bulletins I found posted on a different site. They go into detail on carb tuning for the 070/090. I thought it made for a pretty good read.

Dufour?

 

[dpotapov]

So what is the current best recommendation on the decompression valve problem ? It failed in my previous build after about 6 tanks and destroyed the cylinder, piston and rings. A good way to plug the hole without welding ? An inexpensive way to source high quality decomp valves ?

 

[Nothinghead]

So what is the current best recommendation on the decompression valve problem ? It failed in my previous build after about 6 tanks and destroyed the cylinder, piston and rings. A good way to plug the hole without welding ? An inexpensive way to source high quality decomp valves ?

If I remember correctly, it was a M14 bolt. I do not recall the pitch. A plug could be made. I lapped my decomp and decided not to remove it. If the lapping does not work, then I'll try to buy an OEM one, and failing that, I'll make a plug.

 

[Bedford T]

Here is your part # 1122 025 2200 - Plug
Decompress plug 1128 020 9400

If you don't have a dealer get one off eBay.

So what is the current best recommendation on the decompression valve problem ? It failed in my previous build after about 6 tanks and destroyed the cylinder, piston and rings. A good way to plug the hole without welding ? An inexpensive way to source high quality decomp valves ?

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[dpotapov]

sorry Bedford T with all due respect (I watched your 070 build videos and read alot of your posts, great info)
1122 025 2200 does not look like the right plug for 070 huztl cylinder nor the other part that you mentioned

M14 fine thread (as nothinghead mentioned above) sounds closer but I am not sure how to safely plug the small side opening in the wall of the decomp valve hole
also it needs to be a certain length ? anti vibration & temperature lock washer ?, JB weld extreme heat paste ? keep or not keep huztl copper crimp washer there ?
etc.

I was hoping to find an off the shelf plug with all the right dimensions ( again, no welding ) to simply seal that hole well like a sparkplug seals its hole

( I am just looking for something that is gonna last ALOT longer than the huztl decomp valve, which at 6 tanks may not be too bad but it is $$ for the parts
and then rebuild & downtime and the safety issues etc and 070 burns 6 tanks fast)

 

[Bedford T]

sorry Bedford T with all due respect (I watched your 070 build videos and read alot of your posts, great info)
1122 025 2200 does not look like the right plug for 070 huztl cylinder nor the other part that you mentioned

M14 fine thread (as nothinghead mentioned above) sounds closer but I am not sure how to safely plug the small side opening in the wall of the decomp valve hole
also it needs to be a certain length ? anti vibration & temperature lock washer ?, JB weld extreme heat paste ? keep or not keep huztl copper crimp washer there ?
etc.

I was hoping to find an off the shelf plug with all the right dimensions ( again, no welding ) to simply seal that hole well like a sparkplug seals its hole

( I am just looking for something that is gonna last ALOT longer than the huztl decomp valve, which at 6 tanks may not be too bad but it is $$ for the parts
and then rebuild & downtime and the safety issues etc and 070 burns 6 tanks fast)

I answered from my phone and it obscured the title some. I pulled the numbers from 660. Most often question. So I hate i did that.

I don't see how you can crank the 070 without a decomp. More power to you. I have already shown the correct part. So you can figure out the rest. There is no other way to do it or part to use. I found a dealer and ordered the part and waited about 8 weeks.

I bet it's not long before it breaks your arm.

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[Ted Jenkins]

View attachment 691491 Here's a photo. You'll notice it has a hole in the center to accept the pin while mounted to the decomp body.

No body needs the decomp tool. I have one, but it has been awhile since I needed one and could not locate it in a few minutes. Push some thin rope or string into the spark pug hole until it is full. I bound the flywheel with a strap clamp and then took the e clips off the decomp valve. I pushed the plunger down into the cylinder until it was below the grove and then twisted the decomp valve out. The plunger came out with it. I machined two groves into the plunger just a little wider. Put some lock tight on the valve reinstalled with the modified plunger. With a magnet it moved about an eighth of an inch so I could install modified washers that fit the plunger. I crimps the washer tight and brazed it shut installed an extra spring and repeated the process. The set up has been flawless with more than forty tanks of fuel. In the mean time I ordered five or six decomp valves to have on hand in case of failure. BTW if any one need valves I have some. I had forgotten what it was like to use a 404 chain. One time I cut three cords of Oak with out touching the chain. Of course the wood was clean, green and large. Now I have two 070 ready to go. I have a 075 and 076 that needs some love and tlc, but the 070's have not blinked yet. Maybe with good weather I will be able to finish their restoration. Thanks

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I answered from my phone and it obscured the title some. I pulled the numbers from 660. Most often question. So I hate i did that.

I don't see how you can crank the 070 without a decomp. More power to you. I have already shown the correct part. So you can figure out the rest. There is no other way to do it or part to use. I found a dealer and ordered the part and waited about 8 weeks.

I bet it's not long before it breaks your arm.

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I weigh 200 lbs and have a grip that exceeds 200 lbs probably because I have grabbed hundreds upon hundreds of cords of wood. I thought no big deal just pull the damn rope and go cut. One time it back fired and slipped away from my foot. I put the saw away and finished the day with another saw. It went back to the shop until the decomp was working perfect. I take enough chances as it is so why not have a saw that might be considered safe. Thanks

 

[Bedford T]

I weigh 200 lbs and have a grip that exceeds 200 lbs probably because I have grabbed hundreds upon hundreds of cords of wood. I thought no big deal just pull the damn rope and go cut. One time it back fired and slipped away from my foot. I put the saw away and finished the day with another saw. It went back to the shop until the decomp was working perfect. I take enough chances as it is so why not have a saw that might be considered safe. Thanks

It's a monster saw. I am no weakling. It scares me. I respect it. Do you have the part# for the decomp tool? I would like to own it

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[Chainsaw Jim]

My plans for the decomp is to make a plug, then drill it out and tap it to install a modern stihl decomp button. Kinda like a homemade time-sert. I'll use a small enough id sized washer underneath to catch the plunger if it ever fails. Also I don't have to worry about holding the damn thing down with my thumb when pulling the rope.

 

[dpotapov]

Well, I guess I feel a little stupid now (which does not feel good), or, about to be educated a bit (which would feel great)
because, I never ever used the decomp valve to start my 070, and, I have lots of other saws and gas engines around that don't have decomp valves in the first place.

So I thought maybe if my wife can't start the 070 ( without using decomp. HA. ) maybe it is a good thing

Thanks for the DIY pointers, Ted Jenkins.

And thanks for your reply, Bedford T. So the recommended solution is ~$30 ? Half of it the part, half of it the shipping ?
Even more than the huztl cylinder & piston kit, shipped.
Feels a bit high when the right geometry plug is probably under $5.
But, maybe that's just a fact of life I gotta accept (and/or learn how to weld aluminum).