It's possible that the early 372xp just plastic and they upgraded them.Dolmar/Makita flanges are almost identical, but don’t have metal thread inserts. They are very easy to strip. Maybe you got one of those?
Why not cork?Replace the boot and mounting flange. NM= newton meters, just cross referance it it inch pounds. Use a paper gasket or syn fiber type not cork.
Cork is very porous, might be a built in leak, and rtv is not gas resistant.Why not cork?
The amount of torque on the bolts will not crush it if it’s thin enough? Is that what you might be worried about?
Yes but it should not stall when sprayed with carb cleaner at the boot joint regardless of the L and T setting.Some Xtorq's will surge at idle if the idle is set too high. I have had two different ones surge like that, but run perfectly at full throttle. Try lowering the idle rpm; that worked for me. I think it may have to do with the coil starting to advance near that idle rpm.
Please read my previous posts. [emoji111]Yes but it should not stall when sprayed with carb cleaner at the boot joint regardless of the L and T setting.
This does happen because of the advance built into the coil.Some Xtorq's will surge at idle if the idle is set too high. I have had two different ones surge like that, but run perfectly at full throttle. Try lowering the idle rpm; that worked for me. I think it may have to do with the coil starting to advance near that idle rpm.
For hard to find leaks, there’s always the dunk test, light pressure and dunk in a tub of water, like a slow leaking inner tube. I’ve used this method with great success. I strip it down to the crankcase minus the carb, coil, flywheel and clutch, then blow everything dry when done.This does happen because of the advance built into the coil.
OP I'm sure all will be fine once you get your new parts, if not well all be here.
The best way to accurately diagnose an air leak is pressure/vac testing.
It sure can be.For hard to find leaks, there’s always the dunk test, light pressure and dunk in a tub of water, like a slow leaking inner tube. I’ve used this method with great success. I strip it down to the crankcase minus the carb, coil, flywheel and clutch, then blow everything dry when done.
Cork is very porous, might be a built in leak, and rtv is not gas resistant.
Right on buddygold type RTV is gas resistant. as well as several other commercial versions of RTV sealants.
if it were a poulan or a stihl then yeah but on a 372.... No.Right on buddy.
Question remains, would you use it in this application.
Even a five year old kid could figure that out! Lol.Not trying to hijack this thread, but while we’re on the topic of the 372 does anyone know a quick way to compress the spring on the chain break mechanism to fit the actuator on The locating pin?
Thanks
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