372 intake boot how are you guys torquing them?

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John Stryker

John Stryker

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Some Xtorq's will surge at idle if the idle is set too high. I have had two different ones surge like that, but run perfectly at full throttle. Try lowering the idle rpm; that worked for me. I think it may have to do with the coil starting to advance near that idle rpm.
 
Brent Nowell

Brent Nowell

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Some Xtorq's will surge at idle if the idle is set too high. I have had two different ones surge like that, but run perfectly at full throttle. Try lowering the idle rpm; that worked for me. I think it may have to do with the coil starting to advance near that idle rpm.
Yes but it should not stall when sprayed with carb cleaner at the boot joint regardless of the L and T setting.
 
chipper1

chipper1

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GR. MI.
Some Xtorq's will surge at idle if the idle is set too high. I have had two different ones surge like that, but run perfectly at full throttle. Try lowering the idle rpm; that worked for me. I think it may have to do with the coil starting to advance near that idle rpm.
This does happen because of the advance built into the coil.

OP I'm sure all will be fine once you get your new parts, if not well all be here.
The best way to accurately diagnose an air leak is pressure/vac testing.
 
grizz55chev
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Dec 9, 2010
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21,704
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northern calif., around auburn
This does happen because of the advance built into the coil.

OP I'm sure all will be fine once you get your new parts, if not well all be here.
The best way to accurately diagnose an air leak is pressure/vac testing.
For hard to find leaks, there’s always the dunk test, light pressure and dunk in a tub of water, like a slow leaking inner tube. I’ve used this method with great success. I strip it down to the crankcase minus the carb, coil, flywheel and clutch, then blow everything dry when done.
 
chipper1

chipper1

Living Life to the Full
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
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Messages
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Location
GR. MI.
For hard to find leaks, there’s always the dunk test, light pressure and dunk in a tub of water, like a slow leaking inner tube. I’ve used this method with great success. I strip it down to the crankcase minus the carb, coil, flywheel and clutch, then blow everything dry when done.
It sure can be.
As soon as I hear one of my saws have an issue or I grab one that won't tune I put them down and grab another until it's fixed.
Last one I dealt with was a cracked fuel line on a 361, it was running great, then it wasn't. Unfortunately the when it wasn't was at the guy's house I sold it to so I had to pay to ship it back to fix it :rare2:. It all worked out well and it was shipped back out a week later, could have been a bad situation if it was just ran :surprised3:.
 

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