372 intake boot how are you guys torquing them?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I’m sorry there was some mis understanding maybe, but mine has the metal threaded inserts, I was referring to a metal circular ring to go inside the boot. That’s what I thought someone else was talking about
 
Replace the boot and mounting flange. NM= newton meters, just cross referance it it inch pounds. Use a paper gasket or syn fiber type not cork.
Why not cork?

The amount of torque on the bolts will not crush it if it’s thin enough? Is that what you might be worried about?
 
Some Xtorq's will surge at idle if the idle is set too high. I have had two different ones surge like that, but run perfectly at full throttle. Try lowering the idle rpm; that worked for me. I think it may have to do with the coil starting to advance near that idle rpm.
 
Some Xtorq's will surge at idle if the idle is set too high. I have had two different ones surge like that, but run perfectly at full throttle. Try lowering the idle rpm; that worked for me. I think it may have to do with the coil starting to advance near that idle rpm.
Yes but it should not stall when sprayed with carb cleaner at the boot joint regardless of the L and T setting.
 
Some Xtorq's will surge at idle if the idle is set too high. I have had two different ones surge like that, but run perfectly at full throttle. Try lowering the idle rpm; that worked for me. I think it may have to do with the coil starting to advance near that idle rpm.
This does happen because of the advance built into the coil.

OP I'm sure all will be fine once you get your new parts, if not well all be here.
The best way to accurately diagnose an air leak is pressure/vac testing.
 
This does happen because of the advance built into the coil.

OP I'm sure all will be fine once you get your new parts, if not well all be here.
The best way to accurately diagnose an air leak is pressure/vac testing.
For hard to find leaks, there’s always the dunk test, light pressure and dunk in a tub of water, like a slow leaking inner tube. I’ve used this method with great success. I strip it down to the crankcase minus the carb, coil, flywheel and clutch, then blow everything dry when done.
 
For hard to find leaks, there’s always the dunk test, light pressure and dunk in a tub of water, like a slow leaking inner tube. I’ve used this method with great success. I strip it down to the crankcase minus the carb, coil, flywheel and clutch, then blow everything dry when done.
It sure can be.
As soon as I hear one of my saws have an issue or I grab one that won't tune I put them down and grab another until it's fixed.
Last one I dealt with was a cracked fuel line on a 361, it was running great, then it wasn't. Unfortunately the when it wasn't was at the guy's house I sold it to so I had to pay to ship it back to fix it :rare2:. It all worked out well and it was shipped back out a week later, could have been a bad situation if it was just ran :surprised3:.
 
Did you get frustrated and over tighten the boot? Sand the plastic piece with the nut serts on a flat surface gently so you know it’s flat, then snug it.
 
What's this plastic part? My huztl has a metal one that the carb bolts to. Maybe you should buy the AM flange since it's not plastic.
 
Back
Top