This is one of those things that comes up on a regular basis, and in many threads . . .
Yes. Jointing and Setting applies to all types of saws.
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He has not '
disproved' anything. There are several videos, from different guys, out there on YouTube that show that a chain with different length cutters can cut reasonably straight if each depth gauge is individually adjusted to the corresponding tooth. That does not mean that the chain is cutting as efficiently, or as smoothly, as equal length (and equal angles, and equal sharpness) cutters.
You can drive a pickup truck with different air pressure in all four tires, and stay reasonably on the road. But it is not recommended for the truck, for the tires, or for performance. Lots of guys do this anyway.
Buckin Billy Ray has some informative and entertaining videos that have helped a lot of guys. But the folks at Oregon, STIHL, etc., likely have more than a million man hours of engineering time, over the last 75 years or so, invested into the chains we use; so I like to consider their opinions too.
This is up to you. If it is one or two teeth, I usually file/grind those back, and let the others 'catch up'. This will not be noticed any more than that extra tie strap, or two Right or two Left cutters in a row, on many chain loops. If there are a lot of heavily damaged teeth, I might spin those out and replace them from an identical 'donor loop'. But many of the chains that Ireceive to sharpen not only have different length cutters, but different angles as well, from hand filing. So, for me, it is easiest to put them on a grinder and even things up all over. If you are a skilled, hand filer, and keep all of your cutters the same, you might make different choices.
Philbert