Two points that I think are very valid is each cutter needs to be customized a bit to achieve full use of chain. Or when a OP sees that a particular cutter is damaged both the cutter and raker need to be addressed on an individual basis. And each OP needs to fine tune what works best for their particular need. Thanks
Sharpening hard wood profile
- Thread starter Vintage Engine Repairs
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I can’t wait to test it. It will be really interesting experiencing it myself and form my own opinion. I’m going to sharpen one more chain with a file size one up to the recommended and see how that cuts and lasts in the hard wood we have here.
When cutting soft or mildly hard wood you can get away with so much more than the woods you are cutting, remember most those over here don't get the experience you get. I've always listened closely to you guys from down under and have learned much. When cutting softer woods(many of our "hardwoods" included) much of what is necessary there is wasted energy/time on the part of the operator here and some of the chain too in many instances.
When you were talking about feeling the imperfection in a chain when cutting, I think some may have gotten it while many others didn't, but I get how inefficient it is when you can feel something so far off from the rest of the chain.
Maybe you should be stoning your chains, that will "set" your set lol. It certainly give a much smoother finish on the wood you're cutting, and it makes the cutters more efficient as the set will be much more consistent.
Any pics of one of your chains mate.
Is this Tom as in Tom who was working on the 026 a while ago?
I hope you had washed your hands before 3:12 in the video
.When you are filing the rakers and you get the chattering of the file/raker, shift the gauge to the side a bit to put pressure on the opposite side of the raker to hold the raker much like the board you have in the vice is doing to hold the cutter.
Hope you get a video of the saw cutting.
Hey mate, it was this ms 260 actually, yes. You may remember my previous forum name as “Spoon Carving With Tom”?Is this Tom as in Tom who was working on the 026 a while ago?
I hope you had washed your hands before 3:12 in the video
When you are filing the rakers and you get the chattering of the file/raker, shift the gauge to the side a bit to put pressure on the opposite side of the raker to hold the raker much like the board you have in the vice is doing to hold the cutter.
Hope you get a video of the saw cutting.
Good call on pressure to the raker. Really I guess I should do all the teeth one side pressing against the rail of that tooth’s side and then swap hands so I constantly apply pressure to the tooth against the closest rail.
I didn’t clean my hands actually, but purposely used the base of my hands rather than my fingers haha
Good to see you around
.Not 100% I understand the second sentence. When I sharpen in the vise I sharpen the right cutters first, then I spin the saw around and sharpen the left, then I do all the rakers.
Be careful, one visit to the eye doctor takes away a lot of money saved on firewood
.
Sorry, I’ll try again, to stop vibration. I should pass the file from right to left for the left side rakers and left to the right for the right rakers. Vibration is because the depth gauge is being pushed without a support from the side I believe.Good to see you around
Not 100% I understand the second sentence. When I sharpen in the vise I sharpen the right cutters first, then I spin the saw around and sharpen the left, then I do all the rakers.
Be careful, one visit to the eye doctor takes away a lot of money saved on firewood
Yes, it's from it not being supported, but you just need to push the gauge agains the back side of the raker to stop the vibration. You can also angle your file a little.
I've always used the progressive gauge for production falling instead of evening the teeth with round chisel, skip..But it only works until it doesn't. If I have a chain throw then I look for the damaged ones in the light as I roll the chain, there looking down from the tip. I am not going to file a 36" chain for a handful of damaged cutters. I tend to get 3-4 teeth a side that may only have 1 mm off them when the rest are average half way. (Some more, some less)
Sometimes you just dust out one side so it's very random. All will at least be sharpened once a shift but some may be sharpened 2,3 or maybe 4 times?
____
I can sometimes hear when it's not 'banging on all cylinders' when the dogs are engaged.
It surges in the wood. (grab & release) Meaning it wants to 'run off' with the dogs engaged yet the force is not strong enough to bind in the cut YET. (well at least NOT in that size tree.. see what happens in bar size trees?) Even if I can't hear or feel it yet..is it still pressuring down or/and out on one side of my new $220 bar and causing damage. Is it still wearing out the chassis of one side of my chain?
Looks like it takes it's toll on one side of the Oregon chain more so than on the Stihl chain. I find Stihl more forgiving with chassis and driver wear. I have mainly used Oregon chain for the convenience of easier metal to file and in conjunction with a lot of rain. That goes way back to my tree thinning days where you hit a lot of rocks. Filling on the hill was the way.Rain is not your file's friend.
Something I could have changed in the coast Falling days with planning and preparation. Having said that, I have never ran a Oregon chain down in west coast production Falling. I go about half way and I start getting chain throws a little bit too easy or it starts to bind in the bigger cuts or I'm not lining up my larger bucks. That will tell the story. You may run it though a slight bind falling a 5-6ft softwood tree without noticing an issue. Try bucking that log where you are either.. under bucking and plunging up or plunging down and then boring out the bottom. Yeah man, you may be out an 1 1/2"
Apart from teeth length. I've put my best work into chains in the middle of falling a tree once problems present themselves. (binding in the big cut. Not that they were that bad, maybe a bit uneven on a few gullets from sharpening on a previously very wet day. Next gauging the rakers. Every time I was stopped in the middle of Falling a bar sizeded+ tree, it made it worse. (Unless I just dusted a side) I stopped doing that because I know in the next 8 hours work, then I would have fired that chain due to the driver wear.
Haven't used Stihl that much, maybe 500 coast Falling hours. I ran one chain down and that was very little brush in 2nd growth fir on east coast of south Vancouver Island. That's not west coast Falling by any stretch of the imagination. Whait a minute? Isn't that where Billy works?
One last point or two, guys, on they guys that grind square chisel on the true west coast. They run Oregon or Stihl chain down but they run even cutters and also the 'Mechanics' are very different from the pull of the round file. It snaps the chip off instead of rolling the peel down the gullet. Chain throws are not nearly the same in comparison to my Cedar §hit hook.
Lastly, (as been said) If they smash a few teeth they will even them up gradually.
Sometimes you just dust out one side so it's very random. All will at least be sharpened once a shift but some may be sharpened 2,3 or maybe 4 times?
____
I can sometimes hear when it's not 'banging on all cylinders' when the dogs are engaged.
It surges in the wood. (grab & release) Meaning it wants to 'run off' with the dogs engaged yet the force is not strong enough to bind in the cut YET. (well at least NOT in that size tree.. see what happens in bar size trees?) Even if I can't hear or feel it yet..is it still pressuring down or/and out on one side of my new $220 bar and causing damage. Is it still wearing out the chassis of one side of my chain?
Looks like it takes it's toll on one side of the Oregon chain more so than on the Stihl chain. I find Stihl more forgiving with chassis and driver wear. I have mainly used Oregon chain for the convenience of easier metal to file and in conjunction with a lot of rain. That goes way back to my tree thinning days where you hit a lot of rocks. Filling on the hill was the way.Rain is not your file's friend.
Something I could have changed in the coast Falling days with planning and preparation. Having said that, I have never ran a Oregon chain down in west coast production Falling. I go about half way and I start getting chain throws a little bit too easy or it starts to bind in the bigger cuts or I'm not lining up my larger bucks. That will tell the story. You may run it though a slight bind falling a 5-6ft softwood tree without noticing an issue. Try bucking that log where you are either.. under bucking and plunging up or plunging down and then boring out the bottom. Yeah man, you may be out an 1 1/2"
Apart from teeth length. I've put my best work into chains in the middle of falling a tree once problems present themselves. (binding in the big cut. Not that they were that bad, maybe a bit uneven on a few gullets from sharpening on a previously very wet day. Next gauging the rakers. Every time I was stopped in the middle of Falling a bar sizeded+ tree, it made it worse. (Unless I just dusted a side) I stopped doing that because I know in the next 8 hours work, then I would have fired that chain due to the driver wear.
Haven't used Stihl that much, maybe 500 coast Falling hours. I ran one chain down and that was very little brush in 2nd growth fir on east coast of south Vancouver Island. That's not west coast Falling by any stretch of the imagination. Whait a minute? Isn't that where Billy works?
One last point or two, guys, on they guys that grind square chisel on the true west coast. They run Oregon or Stihl chain down but they run even cutters and also the 'Mechanics' are very different from the pull of the round file. It snaps the chip off instead of rolling the peel down the gullet. Chain throws are not nearly the same in comparison to my Cedar §hit hook.
Lastly, (as been said) If they smash a few teeth they will even them up gradually.
OK, back on topic.
for aussie Hard wood, Ive found that the husky roller guide works well on the carlton chain, here it is after cutting some dead dry sugar gum.
gives me good self feeding cutting, and longevity between sharpening.
3/8 semi 063 on the 660
for aussie Hard wood, Ive found that the husky roller guide works well on the carlton chain, here it is after cutting some dead dry sugar gum.
gives me good self feeding cutting, and longevity between sharpening.
3/8 semi 063 on the 660
Those suspenders look great
.
I think this was a meme, 'I always use..., except when I don't"
.Whens the next book in the series due to be released
.Don't you have work to do buddy
.Hope you're doing well over yonder.
I would say decrease your angle a bit and down with your rakers a touch. Your sharpening sessions will decrease when your rakers are just right. Other than that I would say that set up is what many who cut harder wood go with. A smaller gullet a little more blunt cutter and make some chips. You may be spot on but just looking at the pics is what I see. Thanks
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2019
- Messages
- 4,252
- Reaction score
- 8,509
Husqvarna guides, Carlton chains, Husqvarna braces..... Tom will unfriend you if you don't watch it- none of that stuff is grey & orange!
How's it going Brett? (Mr B .."Beebee" lol.)I think this was a meme, 'I always use..., except when I don't"
How's the family doing my friend? I trust all is well?
I always use Husqvarna, except for when I throw it on the ground. ~JB...
Thanks Brett, doing quite well my friend.When's the next book in the series due to be released
Don't you have work to do buddy
Hope you're doing well over yonder.
"The next Book"
Never know when I may strike.
I may be found jogging naked in London town on a February morning? Ya never knows
________
No work.
Locked down hard right now.
Maybe I should have been more tolerant and kept my jobS I got after the first wave.
Ya never knows?
Give it a month and I'll start 'picking' again.
_____
"The true west coast"
It's all about todays crop, not 'yesterday's leftovers', right?
A Faller's point of veiw.
IDK, I don't think I remember houses around?
Had to crack one of my dry jokes to the pilot when flying into camp up the BC mainland.
It was on one hot day whilst passing over a beautiful stretch of sandy beach in the middle of nowhere.
" Such a beautiful day.. and nobody's at the beach?"
Doing great, thanks
.Doesn't sound like a very long "book"
.Trudeau says he'll take you back
, he's a joke, along with the rest of the globalist!Best thing to do is find ways to stay out of "their" system, I'm making plenty of plans
, so far, so good.That's funny, probably 60 merican out
, and miles from any rd lol.I did a job last summer and found a rd that drove within like 15-20yds (or meters for y'all anywhere else in the world lol).
Even the trees were running down to the "beach", it wasn't the best place to put a towel and lie down
, little uncomfortable, but the trees looked like they wanted to go down there.Attachments
Cheapest available at the time, better than the chaps ending up half way down me bum like an american hood rat.Those suspenders look great
Yeah, they are good tho. Also have a husky helmet, but didnt take it out with me that day, dont tell Bob Hedgecutter.
Hey Ted,
Yeah, it needs the gullet re done, even in hard wood, a bigger gullet on long bars helps, had been lazy with the chain of late, and next time on the depth gauges, I would round the nose a bit more after setting, last time I did them I was tired and lazy after a day on the saw, and the hands were not good for fine filing.
If I was going to cut some recent fallen green gum, I would go over the file with the stihl guide and 5.2 file, and give it a bit more hook and take away the 10 deg down angle the husky roller guide gives, and set the rakers on soft wood, not hard as they are now.
LOL, its an eclectic mix, but who cares, it works, and the wood gets put safely in the trailer at the end of the day.
Dont forget the Oregon bar too
I've got a set just like them, husky winter cutting pants and summer, a pair of husky looking boots, and one or twoCheapest available at the time, better than the chaps ending up half way down me bum like an american hood rat.
husky saws .
