Absolute BEST chain for 50cc saws

Treestuff
Wesspur
Shop deals on ebay
Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
K

KerfWatcher

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
50
Reaction score
48
Location
SW Ohio
Looking to optimize my 026 pro build (moderate port). Have been reading up on bar and chain combos for the 50cc pro saw class and am just overwhelmed with options / opinions and what is currently available.

Please recommend the best chain and bar, currently in production, off the shelf, for a 50cc class saw. Use will be general, hard and soft wood up to ~10" in diameter. I want to be impressed! Like 16" 3/8 square on a 60cc impressed (miss those saws).

Currently running 18" 325 20LPX 063...looking at going to a 16" setup...have read about narrow kerf, LP, some even state 3/8 is the way to go. I can't decide and don' have the time or $ to run an experiment on multiple setups.

Please advise.
 
I’m real happy with either the Oregon Versacut or the Sugrihara bars. No complaints here about either the Oregon Powercut chain or the Husqvarna XCut stuff. Both are agressive with cutters that aren’t so hard that they’re chippy or difficult to sharpen, but not so soft that they’ll dull overly fast.

If you’re looking for length/pitch recommendations, a .325 18” is a very well rounded choice that should be universally available anywhere you are.

3/8 LP is less available, but you’ll be a bit less aggressive and frankly, a pro 50cc saw can easily give you more. Also those wee ’lil cutters will dull a bit faster. The 3/8 is a bigger kerf, but more robust. Probably more than needed on a 16-18” bar.
 
On my Echo 490 I run a 16 inch 56dl bar in 3/8 lp and it’s a good improvement over the .325 it came with. It’s a limbing setup so if you want to buck 16 in plus pieces maybe stick with .325. The smaller chain has trouble clearing out the cut in my experience.

I have been very happy with my Oregon vxl full chisel, it’s fast cutting and the edge last’s longer than any Oregon chain I’ve ever run. It’s worth grabbing a loop to try out, you can find just about any drive length you need online.
 
You will get a lot of differing opinions on this topic. I tested my MS 260 Pro with 16" bars in both 3/8 and .325 and found the 3/8 would actually cut a bit faster. I know speed is not everything but I do like to be the most efficient that I can be. All of my bigger saws are 3/8 and I find it easier and quicker to sharpen and feel it stays sharper longer. I do have one of my 50cc saws set up with a 16" bar and .325 for fencerow and light trimming work as I have found .325 is less grabby on small limbs and twigs. It all kinda depends on your intended use.
 
Ronaldo said:
You will get a lot of differing opinions on this topic. I tested my MS 260 Pro with 16" bars in both 3/8 and .325 and found the 3/8 would actually cut a bit faster. I know speed is not everything but I do like to be the most efficient that I can be. All of my bigger saws are 3/8 and I find it easier and quicker to sharpen and feel it stays sharper longer. I do have one of my 50cc saws set up with a 16" bar and .325 for fencerow and light trimming work as I have found .325 is less grabby on small limbs and twigs. It all kinda depends on your intended use.
Click to expand...
So...this is what I WANT to do, but I keep finding people saying..."if it really worked that well, Stihl would have offered it from the factory". I had a ms361 that wore a 3/8" 16" bar....kinda regret getting rid of it, but never had the thought to swap that setup onto an 026.

Use will be small limbs ~4"-10" diameter range. Mid range chunk out climbing saw and compact power house. Anything small gets the 2511t and anything larger gets the 70cc.
 
I had an 026 woods ported, nothing crazy. (Dad has it now) it had 18" 3/8" .050 stihl rs full chisel. Never liked it, dad didn't like it, so I swapped it out for a 16" .325 .050 full chisel. Oregon bar, started with Oregon chain (dulled very fast) and ended up with stihl rs 325 .050. Much better chain. Made the saw more enjoyable to run, didn't grab, very smooth in the cut. Never timed the cut difference between the two, I doubt it was enough to make a major difference in real world use. How the saw cut was much nicer. That was the difference we noticed.
 
026 is a pro saw, and would be underutilized with narrow kerf or low profile chain in the wood you describe. .325, full comp/standard sequence chain will be smoother than 3/8 or skip-tooth in those branches.

Get full-chisel teeth, and keep them sharp, if you want to optimize cutting speed. Semi-chisel teeth, and keep them sharp, to optimize cutting time between sharpenings.

Philbert
 
Stihl 33rs used to be my favorite for the 50cc saw class until I tried Stihl 23rs pro. Simply a smoother faster cut. Drawbacks are more teeth to sharpen and easier to pinch the bar with the narrower cut. On the large saws I still use 33rs. And a large saw would not under utilize a low profile chain if you set the depth gauges for a more aggressive cut to match the power output.
If I could get a 3/8 low profile drive sprocket I would go with the Stihl PS chain for the larger saws, but no luck finding one yet.
 
I'm running 3/8 full comp chisel chain, on a 20" bar, on my 550xp. The saw has the power to pull the 3/8 and you get more chain speed with a 7 pin 3/8 sprocket than the 7 pin .325.

I like the 20", as I figure that's 2-4" less inches I have to reach compared to the bars that most people run on 50cc saws. It oils it with no problem, and the friction difference between a 60dl and 72dl chain is minimal, so I figure why not run the 20"?
 
The short bar suggestions are all to get the fastest cut while huntched over and uncomfortable. While poorly positioned right up against the log or tree you will absolutely need the fastest cut possible.

Ergonomics are much more important than 2 seconds of cut time. Go with what I run on my ms261. 28” lightweight bar and 3/8 skip tooth full chisel. I run the rackers very low with a 7 tooth sprocket. Adjust racket depth depending on your local wood hardness.

This is what I use for firewood and just a general chainsaw in the pnw. You can stand up and buck 10” alder/ birch firewood no problem. While still a 50cc saw you can bury the bar when a bigger tree is across the road or river you are travelling down.
 
KerfWatcher said:
Please recommend the best chain and bar, currently in production, off the shelf, for a 50cc class saw. Use will be general, hard and soft wood up to ~10" in diameter. I want to be impressed! Like 16" 3/8 square on a 60cc impressed (miss those saws).

Currently running 18" 325 20LPX 063...looking at going to a 16" setup...have read about narrow kerf, LP, some even state 3/8 is the way to go. I can't decide and don' have the time or $ to run an experiment on multiple setups.

Please advise.
Click to expand...
I don't have any 3003 mount bars. Stihl has an electric battery saw out in the UK or at least reviews on youtube from the UK about it using the chain (and the same bar as ms261)I recommend here. If you wait and see if a bar from Stihl to match the loop sizes in order to meet the off the shelf criteria that could be considered. Currently the dl counts seem to be 66, 72, 78, 80 more or less brand x sizes. Not sure what a Hard nose count would be.

Stihl 3690 72 box.jpg
 

Similar threads

Del_
Stihl 241C cutting performance, chain and bar choices. 63PS-picco Vs. .26RS-.325 Vs .23RSP-.050, "23RS-Pro", 3690 Stihl chain.
Replies
10
Views
1K
SAWMIKAZE
SAWMIKAZE
R
Husqvarna 40-50cc saws
2 3 4
Replies
66
Views
8K
retiredfarmer
R
M
Replacing bar/chain on ms261cm…need help from the pros!
Replies
10
Views
2K
wildwes
W
A
MS290+MS193T+MS200T Bar/Chain Gauge Question
Replies
8
Views
2K
AlotL1keVegas
A
Cliff R
Lazer X chain
Replies
0
Views
498
Cliff R
Cliff R

Latest posts

Back
Top