70cc saw opinions based on these factors...

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Great choice in going with the 70cc

funny how all the guys with 60cc saws say there's run with 70cc and pull 28" chains. Wth does pull mean? And does theyre wife get made cause theres bar oil all over the garage.
Only stock 60 cc class saws capable to run with 70 cc class saws imo would be either a Dolkita 6100 with its reed valve induction or Husquarna 357 xp whichs is actually only 57 cc & has unique quad port induction & bottom transfers & crankcase stuffers . Two very strong running firewood saws .
 
Great choice in going with the 70cc

funny how all the guys with 60cc saws say there's run with 70cc and pull 28" chains. Wth does pull mean? And does theyre wife get made cause theres bar oil all over the garage.
It depends on the wood. A 400c will cut very well with a 28" bar in western softwood. In Upper mid west hardwoods not so much.
 
Only stock 60 cc class saws capable to run with 70 cc class saws imo would be either a Dolkita 6100 with its reed valve induction or Husquarna 357 xp whichs is actually only 57 cc & has unique quad port induction & bottom transfers & crankcase stuffers . Two very strong running firewood saws .
A 562xp or 400c will smoke both of those,. The 400 is 67cc however.
 
Even at full rpm some older saws , just do not produce sufficient volume for adequate oiling , of more aggressive cutters on longer length bars . Ripping is a perfect example where adequate oiling is at a premium , as is the case often with full house chains in general on longer bars !
I never had a problem with older saws oiling. Buy older I am talking about year 2000 models and before.
 
It depends on the wood. A 400c will cut very well with a 28" bar in western softwood. In Upper mid west hardwoods not so much.
The 400 does fine with a 24" full comp in hard woods. Spent most of the past weekend bucking oak, locust, black cherry ect. I would say it's about it max effective length though.
 
What the hell you guys smoking my ported 359 was fun good running saw but flat cant even come close to running with my 044 440 046 372 in big dry idaho fir and thats not even a hard wood. A 28 on it with wood to tip would be painfull
Offcourse it could do it but why when the 70cc saws do it with so much less effort on the saws part.

In real live hard wood I see you guys cutting in other parts of the world id not even concider a 57-67cc saw.

I could see a 60cc saw maybe kinda hanging with 70cc in punky pine that cuts like soft balsa wood but with 28" fullchain wood to or past the tip id put my money on my 372 vs nearly any 60cc saw brought to the race.
Sure theres some hot 60cc saws built that might walk away from me, that would be cool to see sending a long sharp chain through some big wood.

So what time are we racing tomorrow. Well even run my chain on your saws to make sure its a fair race.
20221016_105646.jpg
This saw might be slightly cheating racing saws in the 67cc and under class since its a factory bigbore that has been internaly tuned to pump alittle more air. But hey I figure its fair since 60cc includes 67cc
20221008_115411.jpg
Second pic is the 28" the saw normaly wears its a stihl bar that ive used on lots of 44s and a few 372s over the last 10 or 12 years.. the big pine was not picked by me but my buddies wanted it so im happy to put it down.
Was a heavy wet tree.
20221008_123837.jpg
 
What the hell you guys smoking my ported 359 was fun good running saw but flat cant even come close to running with my 044 440 046 372 in big dry idaho fir and thats not even a hard wood. A 28 on it with wood to tip would be painfull
Offcourse it could do it but why when the 70cc saws do it with so much less effort on the saws part.

In real live hard wood I see you guys cutting in other parts of the world id not even concider a 57-67cc saw.

I could see a 60cc saw maybe kinda hanging with 70cc in punky pine that cuts like soft balsa wood but with 28" fullchain wood to or past the tip id put my money on my 372 vs nearly any 60cc saw brought to the race.
Sure theres some hot 60cc saws built that might walk away from me, that would be cool to see sending a long sharp chain through some big wood.

So what time are we racing tomorrow. Well even run my chain on your saws to make sure its a fair race.
View attachment 1028188
This saw might be slightly cheating racing saws in the 67cc and under class since its a factory bigbore that has been internaly tuned to pump alittle more air. But hey I figure its fair since 60cc includes 67cc
View attachment 1028189
Second pic is the 28" the saw normaly wears its a stihl bar that ive used on lots of 44s and a few 372s over the last 10 or 12 years.. the big pine was not picked by me but my buddies wanted it so im happy to put it down.
Was a heavy wet tree.
View attachment 1028190
The 359 was never a real hot saw.
Last week I was using a 400C with a 28" in Idaho Douglas fir. It cut very well.
Our wood in MT and Idaho is super soft. No comparison to eastern hardwoods. With that said a 60cc saw is a good firewood saw back east because it handles everything to 20" pretty easily. Hardwood bigger than that is a pain to deal with for firewood and you don't don't unless your not very smart.
For an eastern hardwood falling saw it really starts at 70cc and hopefully ported with a 20" bar. Something like a 90cc saw is much better if your cutting anything over 28" DBH. That's just my opinion from logging back east.
 
A 562xp or 400c will smoke both of those,. The 400 is 67cc however.
Never was impressed with the 562 xp or the 2nd generation 550 either . Too much overheating issues & Auto tune failure issues . They may have that all figured out by now . My last Husky was my carburated 576 xp . The 400 is more of a 70 c.c. Class model . The magnesium piston is a novel idea . A buddy has one , I was impressed more with its performance than Husquarna's Rev - Boost feature . I found the Stihl had better overall handling or balance in my opinion also !
 
The 359 was never a real hot saw.
Last week I was using a 400C with a 28" in Idaho Douglas fir. It cut very well.
Our wood in MT and Idaho is super soft. No comparison to eastern hardwoods. With that said a 60cc saw is a good firewood saw back east because it handles everything to 20" pretty easily. Hardwood bigger than that is a pain to deal with for firewood and you don't don't unless your not very smart.
For an eastern hardwood falling saw it really starts at 70cc and hopefully ported with a 20" bar. Something like a 90cc saw is much better if your cutting anything over 28" DBH. That's just my opinion from logging back east.
60 c.c saws are only firewood saws primarily , unless your a pulp wood production cutter . To small for any serious hardwood production cutting around here !
 
The 400 does fine with a 24" full comp in hard woods. Spent most of the past weekend bucking oak, locust, black cherry ect. I would say it's about it max effective length though.
In stock form your correct Sean 24 " full house is max . in any serious oak , maple or Iron wood . 28 " semi skip with a properly sharpened square grind is feasible . Muffler mod & lite port cleaning & I bet the 400 would be impressive even with 28" bar ! If it wasn't a Stihl I would own one , my 660 is enough Stihl in the garage for now ! lol.
 
What the hell you guys smoking my ported 359 was fun good running saw but flat cant even come close to running with my 044 440 046 372 in big dry idaho fir and thats not even a hard wood. A 28 on it with wood to tip would be painfull
Offcourse it could do it but why when the 70cc saws do it with so much less effort on the saws part.

In real live hard wood I see you guys cutting in other parts of the world id not even concider a 57-67cc saw.

I could see a 60cc saw maybe kinda hanging with 70cc in punky pine that cuts like soft balsa wood but with 28" fullchain wood to or past the tip id put my money on my 372 vs nearly any 60cc saw brought to the race.
Sure theres some hot 60cc saws built that might walk away from me, that would be cool to see sending a long sharp chain through some big wood.

So what time are we racing tomorrow. Well even run my chain on your saws to make sure its a fair race.
View attachment 1028188
This saw might be slightly cheating racing saws in the 67cc and under class since its a factory bigbore that has been internaly tuned to pump alittle more air. But hey I figure its fair since 60cc includes 67cc
View attachment 1028189
Second pic is the 28" the saw normaly wears its a stihl bar that ive used on lots of 44s and a few 372s over the last 10 or 12 years.. the big pine was not picked by me but my buddies wanted it so im happy to put it down.
Was a heavy wet tree.
View attachment 1028190
Nice rounds , when do you break out the 394/395 ? :blob2:
 
Never was impressed with the 562 xp or the 2nd generation 550 either . Too much overheating issues & Auto tune failure issues . They may have that all figured out by now . My last Husky was my carburated 576 xp . The 400 is more of a 70 c.c. Class model . The magnesium piston is a novel idea . A buddy has one , I was impressed more with its performance than Husquarna's Rev - Boost feature . I found the Stihl had better overall handling or balance in my opinion also !
I had a first generation 562xp. It ripped and was trouble free for 4 years before I sold it. At the time I didn't live in a warm climate though so over heating and hot start issues were not an issue.
 
What the hell you guys smoking my ported 359 was fun good running saw but flat cant even come close to running with my 044 440 046 372 in big dry idaho fir and thats not even a hard wood. A 28 on it with wood to tip would be painfull
Offcourse it could do it but why when the 70cc saws do it with so much less effort on the saws part.

In real live hard wood I see you guys cutting in other parts of the world id not even concider a 57-67cc saw.

I could see a 60cc saw maybe kinda hanging with 70cc in punky pine that cuts like soft balsa wood but with 28" fullchain wood to or past the tip id put my money on my 372 vs nearly any 60cc saw brought to the race.
Sure theres some hot 60cc saws built that might walk away from me, that would be cool to see sending a long sharp chain through some big wood.

So what time are we racing tomorrow. Well even run my chain on your saws to make sure its a fair race.
View attachment 1028188
This saw might be slightly cheating racing saws in the 67cc and under class since its a factory bigbore that has been internaly tuned to pump alittle more air. But hey I figure its fair since 60cc includes 67cc
View attachment 1028189
Second pic is the 28" the saw normaly wears its a stihl bar that ive used on lots of 44s and a few 372s over the last 10 or 12 years.. the big pine was not picked by me but my buddies wanted it so im happy to put it down.
Was a heavy wet tree.
View attachment 1028190
Yeah , I was referring to firewood not large production felling . Where a 60 class saw with it inherent liteness & handling is favoured on 12" - 20 " size sugar maple & silver or yellow birch species . What your cutting there , 371 / 372 xp are in their element ! As Ben mentioned previously , I favour smaller rounds for firewood processing brother !
 
I never had a problem with older saws oiling. Buy older I am talking about year 2000 models and before.
Real Old Ben , Remington or Mac & Pioneer old . BF is a old school saw collector . 28" - 36" bar usage is his realm . I run 36 " on my P-51 & as oiling goes thats pretty well it with winter grade oil .
 
I had a first generation 562xp. It ripped and was trouble free for 4 years before I sold it. At the time I didn't live in a warm climate though so over heating and hot start issues were not an issue.
I think they pretty well solved the overheating issues within the next gen production run , a new top cover with vents & interior heat abatement foam to protect fuel line & ignition modules from conductive or convection heat soaking . Same with the 550 , they solved the intake / air filter poor fit issues , however made the saw bulkier . The Auto tune issues are still prevalent however just spotty now . I much prefer Stihl's M'tronic system !
 
I think they pretty well solved the overheating issues within the next gen production run , a new top cover with vents & interior heat abatement foam to protect fuel line & ignition modules from conductive or convection heat soaking . Same with the 550 , they solved the intake / air filter poor fit issues , however made the saw bulkier . The Auto tune issues are still prevalent however just spotty now . I much prefer Stihl's M'tronic system !
I don't know what everybody's bodies big yank is with the 500 MKII being "bulky". It is lighter than the 359 and the 257 I owned, it runs better, handles better and will go toe to toe with the 359 and out produce the 257 as an all-around small-stuff firewood saw.
 
I don't know what everybody's bodies big yank is with the 500 MKII being "bulky". It is lighter than the 359 and the 257 I owned, it runs better, handles better and will go toe to toe with the 359 and out produce the 257 as an all-around small-stuff firewood saw.
Maybe so, but those saws are 60cc class and the 550mk2 is 50cc. The 359 was never a high performance saw and even back in the day a well tuned, muffler model, gasket deleted 346 would out cut one in hard wood under 18"
The 550 is a bulky 50cc saw IMO. I like the 346xp much better.
 
I think they pretty well solved the overheating issues within the next gen production run , a new top cover with vents & interior heat abatement foam to protect fuel line & ignition modules from conductive or convection heat soaking . Same with the 550 , they solved the intake / air filter poor fit issues , however made the saw bulkier . The Auto tune issues are still prevalent however just spotty now . I much prefer Stihl's M'tronic system !
Stihl Mtronic came into being via a technology sharing agreement with Husqvarna. As such they are very similar in function. Both systems initially were unreliable from what I understand. Both systems now are pretty reliable. People also seem to forget that many guys have problems with carbs, yet are leery of trying new tech. Mtronic/Autotune is the only way to fly Imo and I won't buy another saw without it for my use. And for the vast majority of guys that can't tune a carb to save their lives these systems are a great benefit.
FWIW my 562 never had any of the updates other than it had the second type of carb. They updated carbs multiple times in the first few years.

I would also say that the 400C despite its displacement is a 60cc class saw as its identical to the 362 externaly. If they could fit a 80cc cylinder on it I would buy one!
 

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