026 Carburetor Rebuild - The Saga Continues

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No offense to a Randall, but I can't fathom paying that for a knife. Maybe its because I have everything I need to make one exactly or nearly like one besides the acid etching. And no, I'm not talking about Mastermind!
 
The multi-hole is handy for those screw or vacuum port holes.
The plain one is handy for nibbling out larger openings, Just need to be patient when working
so as to get a clean edge.
Of course the old razor knife aka "exacto" and small sharp scissors are part of the kit too.
Those tools, a sharp pencil or a fine point pen and a few rolls of gasket stock are handy to have on a Saturday afternoon.Hole Punchers 1028.JPG
Edit: if you have gasket that's a common one, like an intake might be,
Just use the new gasket as a tracing template and keep wacking out fresh copies.
Sometime go a bit wider in areas that need it, just don't go the wrong direction and block an opening.
Yeah,...I'm a bit ghetto budgeted in places.
 
Lile Model 19 R.JPG
No offense to a Randall, but I can't fathom paying that for a knife. Maybe its because I have everything I need to make one exactly or nearly like one besides the acid etching. And no, I'm not talking about Mastermind![/QUOTE
I agree. They r $$$$ not to mention the wait?? I have a friend that has several Randalls but here is one of his favorites. An original Lile!
 
The multi-hole is handy for those screw or vacuum port holes.
The plain one is handy for nibbling out larger openings, Just need to be patient when working
so as to get a clean edge.
Of course the old razor knife aka "exacto" and small sharp scissors are part of the kit too.
Those tools, a sharp pencil or a fine point pen and a few rolls of gasket stock are handy to have on a Saturday afternoon.View attachment 359466
Edit: if you have gasket that's a common one, like an intake might be,
Just use the new gasket as a tracing template and keep wacking out fresh copies.
Sometime go a bit wider in areas that need it, just don't go the wrong direction and block an opening.
Yeah,...I'm a bit ghetto budgeted in places.


I stack gasket paper for 026 base gaskets and cut them 3 at a time.
 
Okay... Is there a trick to removing the circlips on an 026? I'm assuming both of them need to come off. And what could I use to drive the pin out?
 
I hate to sound stupid and I'm sure I could just pry em out with a pick but I'm afraid they'll go flying. You guys surely have a trick, seems you do for everything else.
 
I find it easier to spin the clip in the groove until an end is in the indent in the piston. I then use a dental pick to get one end of the clip up and out. Use a drift or Phillips to push the pin out. You only need to get one clip out..push the pin out from the other side.
 
Piston off. Phew! Think I'm gonna try reinstalling with zip ties. We'll see, could just wait until tomorrow or Thursday. Would you guys replace the piston pin and needle bearing or keep the original Stihl ones?
 
As for removing circlips, my clumbsy fingers couldn't seem to make anything work. So I used some curved end forceps. Worked wonderfully. Not only will they pry the circlip out, they will clamp and hold it so it doesn't go flying off into the stratosphere and land in the deep dark recesses of your garage. I also got the piston pin and needle sprocket on by heating the casing of the cylinder with my heat gun on high temp. I just used the harbor freight cheapie that can be had for 9.99 on sale if you keep your eyes open. Lot easier than working with open flame and safer too. Maybe lost a little cool factor but it got it too acceptable temps quick.
 
Probably would have went in even easier if I had frozen the piston pin... Oh well live, learn, and lube it up! Haha!
 
You should not have to heat the piston wrist pin or the needle cage to get them in or out...they should just slide in with a little oil.
 
Hmm, learned that trick from Andy Reynold's show on YouTube. May not have to, but it sure made it easier. I'll fool around with it tomorrow and see what I can get done with some super slick oil. Even the stihl manual calls for heat. But thanks!
 
Well, I'm going to get this assembled once my mailman arrives with my piston ring clips and block kit. Why not make it easier on myself? Then I won't be fumbling to do it by hand or try any sketchy zip tie method where I get the tie too tight or loose or whatever. Use the right tool for the right job I keep telling myself... Now if I can just wait until two o'clock... Oh and I also have some Permatex super slick engine assembly lune coming which might be useful and some loc tite thread locker blue and red for a few screws that call for it. Btw, on the too of my old jug there two screws that are just double sided screws with no heads that have been threaded down into the jug and one is covered by a rubber piece. What are these for? Just supporting the shroud I imagine. What's the best way to get these out?
 
Well, I'm going to get this assembled once my mailman arrives with my piston ring clips and block kit. Why not make it easier on myself? Then I won't be fumbling to do it by hand or try any sketchy zip tie method where I get the tie too tight or loose or whatever. Use the right tool for the Whats ri
wght job I keep telling myself... Now if I can just wait until two o'clock... Oh and I also have some Permatex super slick engine assembly lune coming which might be useful and some loc tite thread locker blue and red for a few screws that call for it. Btw, on the too of my old jug there two screws that are just double sided screws with no heads that have been threaded down into the jug and one is covered by a rubber piece. What are these for? Just supporting the shroud I imagine. What's the best way to get these out?
Whats the zip tie for?
 

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