Think of it as tuition for what you learning.
Ive spent more to make mistakes and not learn
Ive spent more to make mistakes and not learn
026 Carburetor Rebuild - The Saga Continues
- Thread starter woodeneye
- Start date
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Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Keep on keepin on.
woodeneye
Hardwood Hunter
Well, that's just it. I can't put any pressure on with my Mityvac it was leaking so fast. I had my intake and exhaust plugged, and they weren't leaking. Anyone ever experienced a saw with so big a leak they can't even put pressure on it? So it seems to be going out that boot as fast as I can pump it. Gonna put the new boot on tomorrow, and I'll put my new rings and cylinder and jug on Wednesday when I get my ring compressor. I got my new impulse line on and that was hard for some reason, even though I lubed it up with vasoline. Haha, I need a third hand for even the simplest stuff. My medicine gives me the shakes so that doesn't help. As for the offer for the brake band, I appreciate it, but I already ordered it for $6. Thanks though: you guys are great!
KG441c
Keith
Man u have worked hard at this one!! U will be proud of it when ur done! Plus learned alot along the way? How do u like that Mity Vac I recommened?
woodeneye
Hardwood Hunter
I love it, Keith! Thanks for the recommendation. It has helped me find three leaks so far and counting, haha! I have had so many leaks I haven't seen it clear the zero box yet, is that common? I'm beginning to think this saw was thrown out on purpose, since so many leaks were found and it obviously was no where near working. But yes, the Mityvac had helped me locate via bubbles and hissing noises. An indespensable tool. As for the crank seal tool,.. I think I'll pass. I'll manage on my own till I have a bigger bank account.
woodeneye
Hardwood Hunter
Anyone had a pressure test experience similar to mine? Using my Mityvac, I can't even get pumped up to a numbered pressure on the gauge cuz my leak is so big on my intake boot... I thought I'd at least be able to build a little pressure but my leak must be a good one.
johnlhatfield1
ArboristSite Operative
I'd check to see why you don't have spark. Fire is a must before it will run. Just sayin..
KG441c
Keith
Woodeneye, u need a constant air supply on it. I use a pneumatic blowgun with the trigger taped closed with a regulated air supply of 7 to 10 psi and u will find that big leak.
Matt B
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for sharing your experiences with the 026 Woodeney. Brought back memories of the 024's I've done. This thread should be compulsory reading for newbs working on saws. Lots of thoughtful comments here.
Yes I did an 044 not long ago same as yours no vac or psi. some soap and water found two seals bad replace them and good to go them had pis and vac.
I have had saws come in with both seals totally gone and the intake boot torn open, the vac tool couldn`t hardly move the needle off zero. It takes about 20 mins to strip a 026 down, put in both seals and put it back together, add another 15 mins to replace the intake boot and impulse line. A light battery impact gun with a 5 - 6 " T27 bit speeds up removing and replacing the screws. A 1/2" impact to knock the clutch off.
KG441c
Keith
Most pro saws r worth reviving! parts r inexpensive and u can find used cylinders and cases pretty inexpensive and do the work urself. The love of the hobby and gratification of doing it yourself will out weigh the cost and u have alota fine guys here on AS to help out.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Good call on the air supply Keith. If a saw fails the vacuum test, I hook it to 10psi, and start spraying soapy water.....
woodeneye
Hardwood Hunter
It does have spark... A free spinning flywheel will even produce spark, so that's never been an issue. Anyways, thanks for the replies all. I would try that 10psi compressor test but I've already got it torn down to exposing the piston and have the jug off. My new jug has a decompression valve in it, so this saw is gonna be one step away from an 026 pro, minus the adjustable oiler, which is something I just don't need. I do like the idea of a decompression valve though. Easier restarting is always welcome. Guess I'll have to drill a hole in the shroud. I noticed old piston has a slight dimple on the top of it and very light scoring on the carb side only on just a small portion. Doesn't matter though, it's getting a new one anyway. That new shiny jug. Nikasil coated. I've got high expectations for this saw. Hopefully that boot and impulse line replacement solves all my leak problems. When I put the new jug down, should I use 51813 or permatex to seal it? Just curious.
KG441c
Keith
permatex motoseal or loctite 518. Let either set overnight before u pressure check
woodeneye
Hardwood Hunter
Thanks Keith! You're the man. Man your response times are uncanny. Haha!
woodeneye
Hardwood Hunter
Just use 518 straight or include the original gasket , too?
KG441c
Keith
If not using the base gasket u will have to have cleareance between TDC and combustion chamber which they refer to as squish clearance. A safe clearance for the 026 would be .020 but maybe alil less but dont take my word on it but ask a more experienced guy to be sure. I dont think u have the clearance to run stock without a base gasket but if u do use either sealant with confidence
woodeneye
Hardwood Hunter
Okay, I just looked this up and I think you're right. The 518 I have should cure in absence of oxygen regardless and I want the same or close to it squish clearance.
KG441c
Keith
Ive used alot of permatex motoseal but I like the 518 alil better
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