026 Carburetor Rebuild - The Saga Continues

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I'm keeping my base gasket, but yes, I know about the solder trick. Thanks though, very good tip for anyone following this thread.
 
I'm keeping my base gasket, but yes, I know about the solder trick. Thanks though, very good tip for anyone following this thread.
Maybe a thinner base gasket ? Make one out of a thinner material that would set ur squish and give u a nice bump in compression and u may consider advancing that timing some? If u don't do it now u know u will probably start thinking about it and dive back in and do it anyway?? Lol
 
Now that the jug is off did you find the leak in the intake boot? I have an old 026 torn down now replacing a piston. It's the 12th 026 I have rebuilt this year and not one bad intake boot. Do you possibly have one or more bad av bushings that may cause excessive movement of the motor? I had an old 028 wood boss do that couple years ago.
 
Ok, cedarshark, here's my leak. I bent it just a little so it could be seen as it would be pulled taught like this in it's natural state. As for gasket making, looks like I'm gonna have to, as my old one came off in pieces and I have a felpro gasket making kit. I should be able to make something up fast enough to suit my needs. What do you think of that hole btw? Haha! Definitely a leaker.
 

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Ok, cedarshark, here's my leak. I bent it just a little so it could be seen as it would be pulled taught like this in it's natural state. As for gasket making, looks like I'm gonna have to, as my old one came off in pieces and I have a felpro gasket making kit. I should be able to make something up fast enough to suit my needs. What do you think of that hole btw? Haha! Definitely a leaker.
Thats a hole!!!
 
Woodeneye here u go. Oem head gasket 1118 029 2306 is 0.5mm for high compression and oem head gasket 1121 029 2305 is a 1mm for lower compression. Measure a piece of ur old one to see which u have but u can use the .5mm for higher compression or make one less than the .5 but be sure to check that squish
 
I've only got two options for homemade gasket. One rubber-cellulose sheet = 9 3/4" x 8 5/8" x 3/64"
One rubber-fiber sheet = 9 1/4" x 8 5/8" x 1/32"
Well, the way I figure it, 1/32 is about .8mm, that would be about my only option right now. Got another gasket on the way, though.
 
I mean, how much am I gonna lose compression wise if I go this route? All I want in the end is a nice, good running saw. Don't really care about uber performance yet. I could always replace it later if it doesn't mesh, right? That's just what I'm thinkin...
 
I mean, how much am I gonna lose compression wise if I go this route? All I want in the end is a nice, good running saw. Don't really care about uber performance yet. I could always replace it later if it doesn't mesh, right? That's just what I'm thinkin...
Oh ya ! I would for sure use the oem .5 mm at least! Im not sure what factory squish is but the .5mm high compression gasket would give u a bump in compression
 
Well, now. That's what I wanted to hear, Randy. I'll proceed tonight. That means I don't have to wait three days for the gaskets that were missing in my kit to come. I can tell I had the .5mm gasket, no question. It was fine as frogs hair and came off in chunks. Oh well. I'll go cut a gasket here in a bit. Oh, and yes, I had planned on using a small amount of 518 on either side of it. Thanks guys! This site rocks.:rock:
 
Cover the bottom of your cylinder with oil or grease. Place it on the gasket paper. It leaves an imprint of the cylinder bottom, then cut it out. I if you have a leather punch, it's handy for the gasket bolt holes.

Btw...congrats on finding that big hole. Bet that saw holds vac/pressure now.
 
I do have leather punches, as I'm primarily a knife maker. I use them for punching holes in sheaths. That's a very good tip. Using a drill press tends to not make an imperfect hole. Very good tip!
 
Randall huh?

It must be mine. :)
I knew you were gonna say that! Because if you didn't, I would. And btw, a steel knife? That's awesome! Haha, just joking Keith. I trade in knives, too and know those are quality knives. Carbon steel for my knives, usually O1, W2, D2, or 1095 - with the occasional stainless. Forged or stock removal.
 

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