The main issue behind 1/4" pitch apart from being fragile is that it's expensive to manufacture.
I've heard people say that before, but I haven't experienced it. I will say that it does tend to go dull a bit faster as the thickness of the steel is less, but it's easy enough to sharpen, I do it by hand with a file. European files are best, I bought a box from Bailey's.
For log work I've noticed that one needs to watch how loose the chain is when saw is cutting in a non-vertical position. Some of the small tip bars, like the 12" dime tips need to be loose or they heat up quite a bit. To alleviate that problem I try to keep the chain just snug enough so that I can rotate the saw without having it spark on the bar. IOW, just tight enough so that the tangs are just barely in the bottom of the bar.
One needs to be selective on the saws they use as the drums are not available for all saws, nor the sprocket. Much of the Husqvarna line has drums available, as-is Echo, and some Stihls. Most of the later are too heavy for me, even the smallest Stihls are heavy. 242xp/242/246/345/346xp/350/351/353 family of saws are great for the work I do. Some carvers tend to use smaller saws (ms200 rear handle, 336, 339, Tanaka 3301, etc..). I have a 336, but the fuel lines need replacing. I like the 242xp and 350 much better power wise though. Echo 3450 is hard to beat for small, it is my goto saw when I need to climb 10 feet in the air wielding a chainsaw (Yes, I know this is NOT OSHA approved
).