$14 For A Stihl Rim Sprocket!!!

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SteveSr

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Mar 3, 2003
Messages
3,478
Reaction score
2,877
Location
Raleigh, NC
Hello,

Recently bought a couple of these for our trail club saws. Standard 0.325"-7 for 026/MS260 (0000-642-1236). I about fainted when I heard the price. Not very long ago they were like $5 each.

Is my Stihler price gouging? There were 2 other competing dealerships. One downtown closed up because the land the business was on was worth more than the business and the owner was ready to retire. The other one was recently bought out by the one that I bought from. This basically leaves the one dealer with 3 shops in neighboring towns, a local monopoly.
 
Wow that is not encouraging for me. Our trail association over the winter bought a Stihl 261C-M and 400C-M to add to our aging chainsaws. For some reason and have never seen this, the 261C-M they mounted a 3/8"-7 pin sprocket with a 3/8" bar and chain.

I need to call to ask if they can swap it out for .325" setup to match the existing bars and chain stock. Or just buy the sprocket and a bar. Looking at what you paid I'm thinking of sweat talking a bit. The saw has not been used yet just fired up at the dealer so that might help.
 
Wow that is not encouraging for me. Our trail association over the winter bought a Stihl 261C-M and 400C-M to add to our aging chainsaws. For some reason and have never seen this, the 261C-M they mounted a 3/8"-7 pin sprocket with a 3/8" bar and chain.

I need to call to ask if they can swap it out for .325" setup to match the existing bars and chain stock. Or just buy the sprocket and a bar. Looking at what you paid I'm thinking of sweat talking a bit. The saw has not been used yet just fired up at the dealer so that might help.

Here we pay the Mid-Atlantic Stihl tax which adds additional markup. You may get better parts pricing by going through a Deere dealer of Northern Tool. There may be other options in your part of the country.
 
Wow that is not encouraging for me. Our trail association over the winter bought a Stihl 261C-M and 400C-M to add to our aging chainsaws. For some reason and have never seen this, the 261C-M they mounted a 3/8"-7 pin sprocket with a 3/8" bar and chain.

I need to call to ask if they can swap it out for .325" setup to match the existing bars and chain stock. Or just buy the sprocket and a bar. Looking at what you paid I'm thinking of sweat talking a bit. The saw has not been used yet just fired up at the dealer so that might help.

You might be surprised. The 261 runs the 3/8 just fine.

If you are interested. I have the .325 sprocket, bar and chain off my 261, never used, still brand new. Lets swap set ups.

PM me and we'll work out the details.
 
At my shop Stihl OEM .325 and 3/8 7T sprockets are $6.99. 3/8 8T is like $8.99. The only expensive one is an aftermarket 3/8 9T that’s like $24 that we only sell one or two of a year.
 
You might be surprised. The 261 runs the 3/8 just fine.

If you are interested. I have the .325 sprocket, bar and chain off my 261, never used, still brand new. Lets swap set ups.

PM me and we'll work out the details.

I run my personal 261C-M with both .325 & 3/8" 20" bars. I pick what to use for the job at hand. Thank you very much for the offer of a trade but this is not my property and we need it for USFS re-certifications on Thursday for a gal to use. I can use my bar and sprocket with their chain if the dealer won't swap. But I will keep you in mind as how it plays out. Thanks, Patrick
 
I need a sprocket for a Husqvarna 525 pole saw. OEM is between $50 and 60. I could not find an aftermarket replacement. Part number is 537271501 if anyone has a source.
 
Thanks for the link. Understand it is an odd part but Husqvarna really should make commonly replaced parts available a reasonable price. Usually they are pretty good about it.
 
You might be surprised. The 261 runs the 3/8 just fine.

If you are interested. I have the .325 sprocket, bar and chain off my 261, never used, still brand new. Lets swap set ups.

PM me and we'll work out the details.

I run my personal 261C-M with both .325 & 3/8" 20" bars. I pick what to use for the job at hand. Thank you very much for the offer of a trade but this is not my property and we need it for USFS re-certifications on Thursday for a gal to use. I can use my bar and sprocket with their chain if the dealer won't swap. But I will keep you in mind as how it plays out. Thanks, Patrick
@MontanaResident

Called my dealer and that is where the saws were bought. He had no problem with the exchange. He left early today but had one of his workers switch out the chain today. Easy Peasy.

A side note... The worker was looking over the the bar and chain and asked me If I ran the saw. Nope, only you guys test fired it on assembly. He showed me the drive links on the chain where the were showing some bent over marks. These went all the way around not like when you throw a chain there are some links damaged.

Remembering two post on this forum I mentioned that the sprocket could be out of round but the chain did not hang up and went around by hand easy enough. The sprocket showed no wear.

The second post noted was that inside the bar grove near the butt end the solder weld at the bottom of the bar grove did not get cleaned up and showing high. I showed the person that spot and put the chain on the bar and had him move the chain back and forth and indeed there was a high spot where the drive links were hitting. But just on one side of the bar. He learned something today that I learned here on the forum. He will show and tell this to others in the shop.
 
The second post noted was that inside the bar grove near the butt end the solder weld at the bottom of the bar grove did not get cleaned up and showing high. I showed the person that spot and put the chain on the bar and had him move the chain back and forth and indeed there was a high spot where the drive links were hitting. But just on one side of the bar. He learned something today that I learned here on the forum. He will show and tell this to others in the shop.
Sounds like Stihl laid a batch of defective bars.
 
Hello,

Recently bought a couple of these for our trail club saws. Standard 0.325"-7 for 026/MS260 (0000-642-1236). I about fainted when I heard the price. Not very long ago they were like $5 each.

Is my Stihler price gouging? There were 2 other competing dealerships. One downtown closed up because the land the business was on was worth more than the business and the owner was ready to retire. The other one was recently bought out by the one that I bought from. This basically leaves the one dealer with 3 shops in neighboring towns, a local monopoly.

Sounds like EU prices, only a little cheaper actually.
Sad you guys are seeing that as well now.
 
I actually don't find those prices that bad, the cost of offshore is up beyond that if you do currency exchange, shipping and brokerage the Stihl parts are actually less money for "more gooder" parts.
 
If anyone wants to do a few lp rims each let me know. Can have a batch of them run off on the lathe to use on the tiny chassis Picco stuff. I need a few myself for the 1122, 1124 and 1128 drums. Large mount stuff S2 type or S1. Mostly cutting down cheap AM ones to test run on the mill. Any brand can be altered if you desire OEM or Oregon. Really, there is no difference once I found a supplier for decent rims that run right and straight. I check each one on the saw to be sure they work correctly before they get altered.
 
If anyone wants to do a few lp rims each let me know. Can have a batch of them run off on the lathe to use on the tiny chassis Picco stuff. I need a few myself for the 1122, 1124 and 1128 drums. Large mount stuff S2 type or S1. Mostly cutting down cheap AM ones to test run on the mill. Any brand can be altered if you desire OEM or Oregon. Really, there is no difference once I found a supplier for decent rims that run right and straight. I check each one on the saw to be sure they work correctly before they get altered.
Interesting, how do you alter them?
 
Interesting, how do you alter them?
You turn down the larger pitch stuff. No secrets there.
Found one rim that runs lp in 8 pin. The rest all need to be reduced a bit to run smooth. Doing a full size ES LP nose is in the process. Not sure what that will look like finished. Currently considing several three and one rivet rsn bars sitting here. Two have been split. Geometric checks are happening. It just simple math until the chain has to ride around it.
 
Back
Top