All of the parts on the three saws are the same except the cylinder and piston. 290 is the smallest the the 310 and the 390 is the biggest. If you are changing the piston and cylinder anyway you might as well put a 390 jug and piston on it because it will bolt right on. Do a search there are lots of threads. I would not bother putting on a 310 cylinder unless it was free
Because a 390 costs about the same.
It's say's MS 290 on the outside
But on the inside it's all MS 390 :msp_thumbup:
What you're looking at is power per weight. Lightweight power is what you want, as long as it's not low quality junk. :hmm3grin2orange:
Yep and it's nice and shiney! Yeee haww....!
On another note, some 390's have a compression release (later models) and some of the earlier ones did not. The newer motor swap option from Bailey's (the MS390 kit) has the predrilled option to add the compression release if you would like to slightly modify your top cover. Otherwise simply buy a cylinder release "plug" and skip it. If one has a MS290 that is toasted (scored) the best option is to go with the Bailey's kit. I purchased one for an older 029 version and never looked back!
It isn't to shinny any more; I'm just glad I took pic's when I put that new 25" ES 3/8's bar on it :msp_smile:
It is getting better with the 390 top end, but even with that the power to weight ratio isn't good, and all the obvious signs of a low quality saw are still there....
REALLY! Okay I've said some of this in an earlier thread but here goes again. Comparing my 029/039 to the closest Pro Stihl a 362 here's what i come up with. Clamshell design, for me big deal if I have to rebiuld it all the time it's going bye bye. It wasn't hard to put the 390 in it anyway. Going off of Stihl's specs the stock non MM'd 391 has 4.4hp and 14.1 lbs weight. The 362 has 4.6hp and 13.2 lbs weight. Really 1 pound! If that wears me out i better just buy wood! Plastic, sure the 029/039 family is plastic. So is the hood on my John deere tractor and my quad. Those both take alot of use and perform beautifully. Now I understand the 1127 series saws are not PRO grade, but I think they take too much crap here for as reliable of a saw that they are. I've never run a 362 but would imagine my MM'd 390 wouldn't lose too much to one. Obvious signs of low quality, well that low quality cut wood for 8 years straight AFTER I bought the saw used. Don't get me wrong I'm trying to get a Pro saw in a 36" bar range, but I will never knock my 029 except the oiler. Other then that it's a solid saw. Rant over! LOL!
In some of those stihl service manuals they list torque. I wonder what the torque ratings are for the 362 vs the 390...the 039/390 is 2.5ft lbs.
REALLY! Okay I've said some of this in an earlier thread but here goes again. Comparing my 029/039 to the closest Pro Stihl a 362 here's what i come up with. Clamshell design, for me big deal if I have to rebiuld it all the time it's going bye bye. It wasn't hard to put the 390 in it anyway. Going off of Stihl's specs the stock non MM'd 391 has 4.4hp and 14.1 lbs weight. The 362 has 4.6hp and 13.2 lbs weight. Really 1 pound! If that wears me out i better just buy wood! Plastic, sure the 029/039 family is plastic. So is the hood on my John deere tractor and my quad. Those both take alot of use and perform beautifully. Now I understand the 1127 series saws are not PRO grade, but I think they take too much crap here for as reliable of a saw that they are. I've never run a 362 but would imagine my MM'd 390 wouldn't lose too much to one. Obvious signs of low quality, well that low quality cut wood for 8 years straight AFTER I bought the saw used. Don't get me wrong I'm trying to get a Pro saw in a 36" bar range, but I will never knock my 029 except the oiler. Other then that it's a solid saw. Rant over! LOL!
In some of those stihl service manuals they list torque. I wonder what the torque ratings are for the 362 vs the 390...the 039/390 is 2.5ft lbs.
The torque at really low rpms are a moot point, as the cutting down there will be very slow anyway. What counts regarding cutting is the "backup" they have right below the max hp point, and what they have above max hp. The reason those saw so often are said to feel like they have less power than they are rated at, is that they lack exactly that - making the effective "power band" extremely narrow.
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