A through C series need to be ran on 16:1 regardless using modern oil or not with 3 ring pistons and no roller bearings. It uses bronze bushings some early D series spected 16:1 the later D's spected 32:1
I would not pay any attention to that old dumbass.
This is spot on.
The only person assuming around here is you.. Just stick to what ya know cleaning spark arresters lol
Stay on topic you senile old fuq. It was 5 hours and honestly given the work in question and what the ms180 guy posted it may not be far off.
Those lawn bot steel decks are thin and rust very easy they never lasted long, especially in sandy soil areas.Maybe if you actually ever did anything you would know something.
The whole point is that I have been running one for decades on 50 to 1 and it has never missed a lick other than the deck slowly coming apart. The gear drive transmission bushings having to be replaced , etc.
My latest "repair" LOL
Ya Muppet I've done bigger days than 5hrs actually run time hanging off a saw omg what kind of fantasy world do you live in have you ever worked in the timber industry? Like I said stick with what ya know and that's cleaning spark arresters Santa
I used dominator too @ around 40:1. if im milling ill do a tad bit more oil than that but not much.
Not completely true Jake , the old (A) Series Ironheads were 16:1 (1954 thru 57) 1.5 HP , 1st generation (C) Series (1955 thru 1964) 1.75 to 2 HP . 2nd Generation (C) Series (1957 thru 1967) 2.5 to 3 HP. Late Model (C) Series 1964 thru 1971) 3.5 HP . D-400 Series (1964 thru 1982) D-600 Series (1972 thru 1982) . E-Series 1978 thru 1982 3.5 HP . F-Series (1983 thru 1991) 3.75 HP. M-Series (1992 thru 1997) 5 or 5.25 HP . V-Series (1994 thru 1997) 4.5 or 4.75 HP. E-Series (Duraforce) (1998 thru 2004) 6.5 or 6.75 HP . The Iron head & Brickheads both had crank ( bearings) sintered brass / bronze sleeved bushing const. . 1st Generation C-Series engines had the same sintered brass / bronze sleeved bushings . The 2nd generation C-Series engines had sintered brass / bronze sleeved bushing & a caged needle bearings on the pto end of the crankshaft . The same bearing configurations held true for the 3rd generation C-Series engine & both the D-400 & 600 Series engines . The only upgrade was electronic ignition on the latter D engine from breaker point ignition & stator . It was not until mid way throught out the production run of the F-Series engines , that both crank bearings utilized caged needle bearing construction & ran 32:1 ratio . The M , V & E-Series followed this bearing design improvement & ran 32:1 ratio from the factory . The V Series engine was bullet proof design , however down on power especially with the potential self propelled feature . The M-Series was the most efficient engine design OMC ever put on a mower imho , its downfall , was the poor designed 1st generation oil injection system which was flawed . As for the Duraforce only the 1st generation series was a true Lawnboy . The latter 2 yr production run Duraforce engines & mowers were a joke , plagued with japaneese (ina) offshore wrist pin bearing failures that replaced the original North American Torrington or Timkin full steel cage bearings & cheap plastic monoblock injected carburators & intake tubes that warped & produced vacuum leaks & erratic idle & overall poor performance . Anyhow , i have owned over (8) 2 cycle lawnboys over the years & still have a late production run F-Series at fishing camp & my Son has my original M-Series which we run on Saber premix @ 40:1 for over 12 yrs on Opti2 . I intend to do a trial with the F-Series on Red Armor @ 50:1 . P.S. The key to OMC oil or any TCW3 oil is as you said "ashless" which in outboards & low rpm usage láwnboys will prevent unwanted carbon fouling of the engine ring grooves & piston skirt scoring due to exhaust port carbon deposits , that todays modern syn oil detergency packages resolves . The only remaining concern with babbitt brass bearing design is LB crankshaft tolerences & required heavier viscosity that Saber , Opti2 & Red Armor satify in my opinion . Even back in the day with OMC oil @ 16:1 all my LB mowers prior to new 2T oil designs required manditory 50 hour exhaust & muffler decarbonizing . The previous oil ratio recommendations i provided are actual validated through yrs of my usage on the actual engines specified . Only the A-Series Ironhead & Brickhead i have not owned , but have operated . Just my opinion Jake !
Actually the Ashless part is related to the fact ashless oils can't use any mettalic based detergents are AW additives and for good reason. You really should use ashless oils in a Lawnboy.
That jagoff doesn't even understand how a motor works, yet dispenses advice here like he has a clue. He doesnt.. In addition he is a hack mechanic, which is no surprise.Ya Muppet I've done bigger days than 5hrs actually run time hanging off a saw omg what kind of fantasy world do you live in have you ever worked in the timber industry? Like I said stick with what ya know and that's cleaning spark arresters Santa
I could take you bush tomorrow and get you a job with one of the full time hardwood firewood outfits here ya job will be to buck logs all day ya don't have to worry about doing anything else they will keep the endless logs up to you and yes you will be using a 90cc saw time is money. The only time you will stop is when the saw runs out of fuel..then you refuel and sharpen 10 minutes max. And you'll get 15min for smoko and 30min for lunch the day will be 9hrs some days 10hrs... yeah yeah I know you wouldn't last past smoko even in ya prime lol
I re-condition a dozens saws a month. 1/3 are MS180's. They are indispensable, and bulletproof. Any woodsman knows their 170/180 serves a single purpose. Whenst the big wood calls, they still help free a big saw with a long bar....from a stump pinch.
His family owned a saw mill, I’d guess he’d have put 5 hours in before lunch on most days.
Thanks for reiterating what I previously mentioned. The original (Duraforce) E Series was a stout performer in 1998 . It was a piston port R-tek carry over from the Toro buy out in early 1990 . The M-Series did indeed have a Suzuki Engine .The later production run yrs starting into 2000 were completely junk Duraforce's with reed valve induction & plastic mono block carbs . There was even further Toro involvement where as Tecumseh engines were substitutes in 2002-2004 era when Toro was grasping at straws for engines for rebadged Toro's in LB Green . Eventually Briggs Engines were utilized & a one year Tecumseh engine option . Anyhow , apologize for high jacking this chainsaw thread , into a History of Lawnboy mowers . I know you find my history lessons boring , just felt Jake might benefit accordingly .
