I bought a 5100s in may of last year to replace my 510 , wish I would have kept the 510 .In august after putting maybe 5 hours on the 5100s blowed up (scored piston-cyclinder). After explaining to the new dealer in that the compression should not go from 180lbs to 120lbs .They say saws run that low all the time . They were saying bad gas wanted me to buy little pop can thingy they sell of premixed gas . I told them no thanks. So I took it back to the guy I bought it off .He is retiring why I did not bring it back to him in the first place . We looked at the saw, the other place dumped the gas out of it . So he this wont be no problem he has no way to test gas so it going to get rebuilt for free . So leave it there he maybe couple days have it ready . Stop by after a week he still did have it ready he explained why ,I thought it was a good reason told him call me when your done " no rush ". A couple weeks later he said he was done I said went to pick it up .walk in he we have a problem only thing that could have been wrong with this saw is bad gas not sure if warranty will cover it . So I say I am not putting a 300 dollar rebuild into 400 dollar saw (the saw is rebuilt at this time sitting on his work bench ) he lets me take my saw like he is doing me a favor .Get it home start it up ,and notice it is missing a bolt ,call dealer he says bring it back .Next day bring it he put a allen head bolt to replace where the torx screw was .I didn't like it but figured it was good enough .So I have used the saw on and off over next few months maybe 4 tanks of fuel since rebuild ,Then one day the handle feel loose so I take to my garage and look at it and it is missing a bolt inside the handle not sure if deal took it out or what , so i figure just fix it myself . Get it fixed make about 8 cut and saw locks up cant move it get it freed up and test compression 130lbs .I figured it is blown up again .
5100S dolmar saga
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5100
So that is the story here are questions 1.saw is still under warranty but I cant find my warranty card is my sales invoice good enough? Do saws ever get replaced by dealers or always just rebuilt ?
So that is the story here are questions 1.saw is still under warranty but I cant find my warranty card is my sales invoice good enough? Do saws ever get replaced by dealers or always just rebuilt ?
Contact Dolmar as I did with mine having the old style air filter on it when I bought it. They replaced the air filter and sent a 6 pack of oil also. I sent my card in but said that is just used for recalls and such, that I would need my receipt for warranty work. What oil and gas are you using? Did the dealer set it up with a tach, if not get one.
This helped me tune mine
Originally Posted by DMShaver
The carb. on a 5100 can be finicky at times. I've had many that are difficult to get into adjustment. When adjusting the carb on these saws, the first thing to do is remove the limiter caps, screw both screws in until they seat lightly, and back both out 1 1/4 turns. Many times you can't do a complete adjustment with the factory settings. (The saws are tuned in Germany on Aspen fuel, and when using US fuel, they need to run a bit richer.) Turn the idle adjustment screw (S) in 2-3 turns and start the saw. Back out the S screw until the RPM is approx. 3200. Turn the L screw in until the RPM's start to rise, and continue turning until you hear them start to die off. Turn the L screw back out a touch. Readjust the S screw to obtain an RPM of 2900 to 3100. Pull the throttle and the saw should jump to life. If it hesitates, the mixture is too lean, back the L screw back out a touch more, and repeat the process until the saw does not hesitate any more. Realize that on this particular carb., adjustments as little as 1/16 of a turn on the low side can make a huge difference. Now do a "dump test". Allow the saw to sit in the normal position for 30 seconds. Abruptly tip the nose of the bar down and listen for a change in RPM. If the saw stalls, the L screw is out to far and needs to be adjusted back in a touch. Repeat the process until a "dump test" can be performed without the saw stalling. Recheck the acceleration, it should still be quick. If not, back the L screw back out a touch etc., etc., etc. It may take a few times back and forth, but if the carb. is functioning properly it will come into adjustment. Now run the saw at top-no-load (TNL) RPM. (Note: the chain should be tightened to the point in which is just starts to droop of the bar, and should spin freely. An over tightened chain will not yield an accurate adjustment.) Pull the throttle and observe the TNL RPM. Given that this saw has an electronic rev limiter, it will not exceed 14,500-14,700 RPM. Back the H screw out until you see the RPM's start to drop (richening the mixture). I have found that these saws perform extremely well with the TNL RPM right around 14,000. Surprisingly enough the H screw will be 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 turns out at this point. (The limiter caps are factory set to a max of about 1 1/2 turns.) Release the throttle, allow the saw to come to idle, pull the throttle again and it should still have a quick response. Recheck the TNL RPM and adjust as necessary, by turning the H screw out to decrease and in to increase. Finally recheck the idle, and tweak as necessary. Shut the saw off, and reinstall the limiter caps, making sure they are in the approx. center of their travel - this way fine adjustments can be made later without removing the limiter caps again.
Desired RPM's: Idle: 2900-3100 and TLN: 14,000-14,200
A little theory for those that don't understand the importance of performing the adjustments in this order: While idling, the carburetor only allows fuel into the engine through the low speed circuit. During high speed operation, most fuel comes through the high speed circuit, but a small amount may potentially be coming from the low speed circuit as well. Therefore, adjusting the low speed side first is critical in obtaining an accurate high speed setting.
Originally Posted by DMShaver
The carb. on a 5100 can be finicky at times. I've had many that are difficult to get into adjustment. When adjusting the carb on these saws, the first thing to do is remove the limiter caps, screw both screws in until they seat lightly, and back both out 1 1/4 turns. Many times you can't do a complete adjustment with the factory settings. (The saws are tuned in Germany on Aspen fuel, and when using US fuel, they need to run a bit richer.) Turn the idle adjustment screw (S) in 2-3 turns and start the saw. Back out the S screw until the RPM is approx. 3200. Turn the L screw in until the RPM's start to rise, and continue turning until you hear them start to die off. Turn the L screw back out a touch. Readjust the S screw to obtain an RPM of 2900 to 3100. Pull the throttle and the saw should jump to life. If it hesitates, the mixture is too lean, back the L screw back out a touch more, and repeat the process until the saw does not hesitate any more. Realize that on this particular carb., adjustments as little as 1/16 of a turn on the low side can make a huge difference. Now do a "dump test". Allow the saw to sit in the normal position for 30 seconds. Abruptly tip the nose of the bar down and listen for a change in RPM. If the saw stalls, the L screw is out to far and needs to be adjusted back in a touch. Repeat the process until a "dump test" can be performed without the saw stalling. Recheck the acceleration, it should still be quick. If not, back the L screw back out a touch etc., etc., etc. It may take a few times back and forth, but if the carb. is functioning properly it will come into adjustment. Now run the saw at top-no-load (TNL) RPM. (Note: the chain should be tightened to the point in which is just starts to droop of the bar, and should spin freely. An over tightened chain will not yield an accurate adjustment.) Pull the throttle and observe the TNL RPM. Given that this saw has an electronic rev limiter, it will not exceed 14,500-14,700 RPM. Back the H screw out until you see the RPM's start to drop (richening the mixture). I have found that these saws perform extremely well with the TNL RPM right around 14,000. Surprisingly enough the H screw will be 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 turns out at this point. (The limiter caps are factory set to a max of about 1 1/2 turns.) Release the throttle, allow the saw to come to idle, pull the throttle again and it should still have a quick response. Recheck the TNL RPM and adjust as necessary, by turning the H screw out to decrease and in to increase. Finally recheck the idle, and tweak as necessary. Shut the saw off, and reinstall the limiter caps, making sure they are in the approx. center of their travel - this way fine adjustments can be made later without removing the limiter caps again.
Desired RPM's: Idle: 2900-3100 and TLN: 14,000-14,200
A little theory for those that don't understand the importance of performing the adjustments in this order: While idling, the carburetor only allows fuel into the engine through the low speed circuit. During high speed operation, most fuel comes through the high speed circuit, but a small amount may potentially be coming from the low speed circuit as well. Therefore, adjusting the low speed side first is critical in obtaining an accurate high speed setting.
Great Smokies
ArboristSite Operative
Unfortunate situation. Gotta ask, what fuel did you run at first? Realize that US gas is lower octane than European, so carbs set up there need changing here. Did the dealer take the time to run and tach the saw? If not, he has to accept some blame. Second guy, if screws were amiss that's his fault. But if he thought the gas was the cause of the damage then it is down to the saw owner to pay for the non-warranty work. However, he should have warned you in advance. Seems like a combination of incorrect fuel and bad individuals at dealerships are the issue.
nmurph
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You need to email Dolmar directly. Be succinct with your story. Spend a couple of hours boiling your story down to the most pertinent points. Re-write it a couple of times and have someone else read it to make sure it makes as much sense to them as it does to you. You know facts that they don't and sometimes those facts that are in your head and don't make it onto the computer screen can mean the difference. Make sure your grammar, punctuation and spelling are spot-on. And most importantly, don't point fingers: be polite.
Do this and I bet you will be surprised with the answer you get from Dolmar.
Do this and I bet you will be surprised with the answer you get from Dolmar.
On the web site....
tallguys
Addicted to ArboristSite
Absolutely! I have found that you get more goodwill using sugar rather than a stick.
DOLMAR GmbH North America
PO Box 5007
Alpharetta, GA 30023-5007
You have an urgent request or you want to talk to someone from our staff? Then, please use one of the following numbers:
Phone: 770-569-4945
Fax: 770-663-8234
PO Box 5007
Alpharetta, GA 30023-5007
You have an urgent request or you want to talk to someone from our staff? Then, please use one of the following numbers:
Phone: 770-569-4945
Fax: 770-663-8234
It sounds the saw should have been recalled . Sent dolmar a message since they have no email just little message box so see what they say . I have owned dolmar for 15 years always been a fast and strong but they seem finicky . The saw has been pure junk .I might just sell it as a part saw and get a stihl or husky . Dolmars I have owned 115I , 7900, 510,5100
nmurph
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Well, if you decide to sell it, I want first dibs.
I see these stories come up from time to time, and they leave me confused - was there NO indication that tuning was off before the saw went down the first time? I find it incredibly hard to believe that this stuff happened without warning, without any prior indication of something being off.
Maybe folks just need to spend more time learning how to run and tune their saws. It isn't a set-and-forget proposition anymore, to the extent that it ever was in the past. Pump gas is wonky these days, so you have to be attuned to that reality and adjust accordingly.
I'm sorry that the OP had his saw burn up, and even more so that he has a #### dealer/service person to work with. I hope Dolmar sets this right. But it does need to serve as a reminder that these are high-performance machines that require periodic (or even frequent) adjustment and a certain level of mechanical aptitude. It's not a blender or a vacuum cleaner we're talking about, it is a living, breathing 2-stroke motor that has been choked down to meet arbitrary emissions regs seemingly without regard to the impact of compliance efforts on product durability or longevity, and woe to those who overlook this.
Maybe folks just need to spend more time learning how to run and tune their saws. It isn't a set-and-forget proposition anymore, to the extent that it ever was in the past. Pump gas is wonky these days, so you have to be attuned to that reality and adjust accordingly.
I'm sorry that the OP had his saw burn up, and even more so that he has a #### dealer/service person to work with. I hope Dolmar sets this right. But it does need to serve as a reminder that these are high-performance machines that require periodic (or even frequent) adjustment and a certain level of mechanical aptitude. It's not a blender or a vacuum cleaner we're talking about, it is a living, breathing 2-stroke motor that has been choked down to meet arbitrary emissions regs seemingly without regard to the impact of compliance efforts on product durability or longevity, and woe to those who overlook this.
I have owned chainsaws for 15 years only one I have ever had major problems with , Always use dolmar oil, High octane gas ,clean air filter. I dont think a saw should have carb adjusted every time it is used .
Tim Carroll
Firewood Hack
:agree2:
I were ear plugs . Dont think chainsaw should be drag car run once and need rebuilt . I going to try and get this 5100 fixed than I will probably sell it and my 7900 , Think might get a couple of huskys or stihl .I hate taking stuff back to the dealer when they act like you are trashing your equipment when you are not , Or they start crying about bad gas that runs in every thing else you own. Just seem like customers have gotten so bad about ripping retail places off (dealers) that people are always on the defense not trying to help you out but trying to find what scam you are pulling.
