Firewood Fanatic
ArboristSite Member
1 saw, that is no fun!!
550XP or 562XP?????
- Thread starter Firewood Fanatic
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Firewood Fanatic
ArboristSite Member
Thanks dl 5205, sounds like great advice. Any troubles to be aware of with .325?? I have never run it before, always run bigger saws with 3/8.
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
i run 16" 3/8's full comp on my 550. pulls it no problem in the species you mentioned. i wouldn't hesitate to put an 18" 3/8's but i think i would switch to .325 once i got to a 20". all i need it to wear is a 16" and keeping everything 3/8's and .404 is important to me. i can't be bothered with .325. for ***** and giggles i'm gonna pull the 20" 3/8's setup off the 357 just to try it on the 550 one day even though it will go back to wearing a 16".
Firewood Fanatic
ArboristSite Member
I would prefer to stick with 3/8 too, 18" with 3/8 sounds like a good setup on the 550. Thanks westcoaster90!!!
l'm in the middle of swapping my 550 over to 3\8 & what a PITA it is to change out a rim sprocket on these saws. You need a special tool or weld a tool up. l can't believe those dumass engineers did'nt put a nut in the clutch so you did not have to put a piston stop in and find or make some elusive tool. I think l might sell mine if it continues to keep p#$$ing me off. lts a 1-2 minute job on my stihl ms261.
procarbine2k1
Addicted to ArboristSite
550XP would be my choice. I don't think you can go wrong with either saw though. I like .325 chain on small saws, but I wouldn't hesitate to put 3/8 on a 550 either, they have more than enough nuts to pull it well.
CapitaineHaddoc
European Westcoaster
It is not so difficult a piece of thin rope enough to block the piston easily.
Some people loose the clutch with an aluminium chisel (there are notches on the clutch), but Bailey's sells special tool for $ 6. It's easy to do.
For the chain size, all depent what you are using on your other saws. I'm trying to use 3/8 on all my saws, from 50cc up to 100cc. Using the same files and the same chains is a good thing!
Same with me, l'm getting rid of 325 & running 3\8 on larger saws and 3\8lopro on smaller saws. Then you can buy bulk chain and be a happy man. l know what to do to change my 550 sprocket, l just don't no what Husky was thinking when they designed it that way. Sprockets should be able to be changed in the field like a chain and not require special tools and piston stops. Anyway l'll get over it. On other saws its a 2 minute job you could do in the field with a screwdriver thats all.
bowtechmadman
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't see a choice in the matter....and am disappointed in most of the members here recommending one or the other.
True CAD only allows one option...one of each! 16" with the 550, 20 on the 562, and 24 on the 372. 2 saws will never do!
True CAD only allows one option...one of each! 16" with the 550, 20 on the 562, and 24 on the 372. 2 saws will never do!
MarkEagleUSA
ArboristSite Guru
That's not really an option either... but it's a good start!
sunfish
Fish Head
It's the way of all outboard clutchs and some of us prefer it...
No special tool needed or piston stop. Look closely at the face of the clutch.
...
sunfish
Fish Head
You answered you own question there...
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
heck. most of the time i just use my scrench and an axe to get the outboard clutches off and it's off quicker then the circlip, washer, and drum on an inboard clutch saw. no small parts to loose either. some of the bigger saws take a few tries though. if the clutch hasn't been on there for 10yrs they are actually pretty easy to get off. newbs would never think it though.
I am running 3/8 on my ported 550xp, 18" bar, no problems. It is a very strong saw for the size, find myself using it a lot more than I intended. I cut mostly hardwood and use it on stuff up to 14" or so before the big saw comes out. It is so much easier on the back and less fatigue.
OnTheRoad
Collector of shiny things.
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I have both, and in your case I suggest the 550xp. I have a brand new one set up with an 18" Sugi Hara lightweight in 3/8 .050 from Weedeaterman and it's seriously impressive. The thing is so light I barely notice I'm carrying it and it handles very well. Mine has been run for just a couple of minutes, but yesterday I had to noodle a big nasty Elm crotch that wouldn't split, and the little 550 did it easily.
Both saws are very fuel effecient and start on the 2nd or 3rd pull cold, first pull warm. The 562 has run in 75* weather and 5* weather and it's always the same, always tuned perfectly. There may be other great saws on the market, but I'm really happy with those two.
Both saws are very fuel effecient and start on the 2nd or 3rd pull cold, first pull warm. The 562 has run in 75* weather and 5* weather and it's always the same, always tuned perfectly. There may be other great saws on the market, but I'm really happy with those two.
OnTheRoad
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Huh? I changed mine yesterday in two minutes and I've never worked on a saw... ever. Pull the plug, insert a piece of rope, rotate until the piston stops, and smack the large divet marked (OFF) with a flat blade screwdriver....and boom it's on the bench. By the design of the divet, it's idiot-proof as you cannot hit it the wrong direction. Could not be easier. You could do it with the scrench even...
Firewood Fanatic
ArboristSite Member
Consensus here seems to be 550XP with 18" bar, and 3/8 chain. Thanks for the info gentlemen!!
msvold
ArboristSite Operative
Make sure you provide pics!
OnTheRoad
Collector of shiny things.
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It's hilarious to run a saw this light and agile with this kind of power. Coming from a guy who is used to running borrowed cheapo saws, this thing causes a little cognitive dissonance. A saw this size has no business running the way it does.
Same goes for the 562.
Same goes for the 562.
