562XP Project - Who Likes Puzzles?

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For the 2nd saw, you mentioned replacing bearings. The sealed bearing and gasket kit is about $80. I just got a new loaded shortblock for $110 shipped. Hardly worth putting bearings in the old case for such a slight cost difference.

I’d personally run a little richer oil ratio. This was a 2017 model run on 45:1 with XP oil

14BACC4E-FC03-47DF-94B2-2D3C57BBAB72.jpeg DFCE7A0C-649C-45FB-921B-48D8941239A0.png
 
For the 2nd saw, you mentioned replacing bearings. The sealed bearing and gasket kit is about $80. I just got a new loaded shortblock for $110 shipped. Hardly worth putting bearings in the old case for such a slight cost difference.

I’d personally run a little richer oil ratio. This was a 2017 model run on 45:1 with XP oil

View attachment 781768 View attachment 781769

Those bearings are smoked. Missing the plastic races, typical of they look like when they are gone.

Run whatever oil makes you happy at whatever ratio..

I run 45:1 optimol in all my saws, I've pulled a few down and have seen a nice film of oil on the bottom end.

In my experince a 562 likes a sharp chain. Too many guys run em with a dull chain and the clutch and then the bearings get hot and the bearings go boom..
 
Im running all my saws at 40 to 1 now. Knock on wood, but I haven't had a saw go down since I dropped from 50 to 1. As far as running a saw with a dull chain is concerned, I REFUSE to use a dull saw.

Thats how I got my 562.

It came from a firewood outfit..

The bar was blue and the clutch got so hot it melted the oil pump gear.

The oil stopped flowing and the seals melted right through.

Its crazy but my 562 actually started briefly when I got it home.

There was section of the pto side seal that was missing..

Autotunes are different animals for sure. No way a carbed saw would start with a seal that bad.
 
Those bearings are smoked. Missing the plastic races, typical of they look like when they are gone.

Run whatever oil makes you happy at whatever ratio..

I run 45:1 optimol in all my saws, I've pulled a few down and have seen a nice film of oil on the bottom end.

In my experince a 562 likes a sharp chain. Too many guys run em with a dull chain and the clutch and then the bearings get hot and the bearings go boom..
I agree with you to an extent. But that left bearing is a long ways away from the clutch and bar to say that heat was transmitted through there and that took it out. I don’t doubt that this saw has Quite a few more hours on it than most because it belongs to a tree guy, but a 2017 saw shouldn’t have bad bearings already. I believe it’s due to heat from a lack of oil running through the bottom end, which is inherent in a strato designed motor
 
I agree with you to an extent. But that left bearing is a long ways away from the clutch and bar to say that heat was transmitted through there and that took it out. I don’t doubt that this saw has Quite a few more hours on it than most because it belongs to a tree guy, but a 2017 saw shouldn’t have bad bearings already. I believe it’s due to heat from a lack of oil running through the bottom end, which is inherent in a strato designed motor

I'll also note that Ive seen several flywheel side failures on modern strato saws.

I dont like plastic races, no amount of oil can keep them from drying out and shattering it seems.
 
Got some more little things done on the second saw. Did some cleaning, and changed out the rope and internal parts of the pull starter that was broken off. Cleaned up and painted the second muffler.

20191221_180858.jpg Now that I know what I have that's good, time to order a few more parts.
 
You mentioned the holes not being threaded in the new bottom end, that's the way they come. The original factory screws are self tapping, no need to worry about tapping the holes first and then putting the screws in. ;)
 
You mentioned the holes not being threaded in the new bottom end, that's the way they come. The original factory screws are self tapping, no need to worry about tapping the holes first and then putting the screws in. ;)
Yeah, figured that out. My worry was using the right screw in the right hole.
 
Well when you are waiting on parts for one saw and budget building the other saw, you start making parts.

Today I decided $15 plus shipping was too much for starter pawls, so I decided to make my own.

Bringing back memories when I was too poor to buy anything, I got to work.

Found an old piece of steel, that I think was a shim from an old pickup truck I used to own.

Perfect thickness.
20191222_121747.jpg
Cleaned it up and marked what not to cut.
20191222_122425.jpg
Started roughing them out.
20191222_123143.jpg
A lot of sanding and filing got me to this point
20191222_123542.jpg
And then some more filing and sanding, with a little drilling got me here. And did some cold bluing while I was at it.
20191222_130449.jpg
And here is what I ended up with.
20191222_130716.jpg
Two of these I made, one is original.
20191222_132519.jpg
 
Good job on the manufacture of the parts. It takes a lot of creativity and skill to be able to find stock and make what you need when necessary.

That being said, I was watching this build thread to compare an OEM build to an aftermarket build, I wanted to compare pricing and see how it turned out in the end, however if we are now manufacturing parts that no longer qualifies as a comparison in my opinion. No disrespect to you intended, and I am absolutely certain that it will work out just as good as an original... But I'm no longer interested as the comparison has changed.
Good luck with the build, and congratulations on the find, I hope it all goes well for you.
 

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