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You could trim that and one 180 degrees opposite side and run it. Just trim them the same.
562XP Project - Who Likes Puzzles?
- Thread starter Freudianfloyd
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Yes, this is my vote. You could find a used one but that should work fine.
Cut it off and if you want one on the opposite side, ran many saws with one or two fins missing.
Freudianfloyd
Clinically Diagnosed with CAD
Saw 1 is together! Now I am nervous as hell to start it. I did get it to fire once, and then stopped. Hopefully if it will do that, the carb with work.
About to go find a log to put this saw in to set the carb.
Here she is with full wrap handle that came early. I got my Tsumara bar, but the chain, so I will be running it with the Husqvarna one for now.
About to go find a log to put this saw in to set the carb.
Here she is with full wrap handle that came early. I got my Tsumara bar, but the chain, so I will be running it with the Husqvarna one for now.
Freudianfloyd
Clinically Diagnosed with CAD
She runs!!!!
And she eats wood like a beast, but she doesnt want to idle down. Will it eventually learn to do that, or does that mean I have other issues?
And while on the topic of idling. I started her up, and immediately put her in a 42" log and held it at full throttle. I could tell it was learning, and it got to where it smoothed out and ran great, but was idling high. I set it down for a few seconds and it died and didnt want to start back up.
It may have been the kill switch that caused it to die because the rubber boot around it was in the way, but after removing the boot it fired up again and runs great, just idles way too fast.
Any ideas?
And she eats wood like a beast, but she doesnt want to idle down. Will it eventually learn to do that, or does that mean I have other issues?
And while on the topic of idling. I started her up, and immediately put her in a 42" log and held it at full throttle. I could tell it was learning, and it got to where it smoothed out and ran great, but was idling high. I set it down for a few seconds and it died and didnt want to start back up.
It may have been the kill switch that caused it to die because the rubber boot around it was in the way, but after removing the boot it fired up again and runs great, just idles way too fast.
Any ideas?
Are you sure you have a matching carburetor and coil in that same saw? They need to be a matched set, or possibly at least the coil needs to be flashed to whichever carburetor is with it
Sounds like am air leak. I don't remember if you vac/pressure tested the saw? You could also try one of the other coil you have.
Freudianfloyd
Clinically Diagnosed with CAD
Will a mismatched coil allow it to run great, but not idle?
Yes.
Freudianfloyd
Clinically Diagnosed with CAD
I will put my tach on it, but when I say its idling too fast, it's not crazy fast, it's just fast enough the chain wont stop spinning, it doesnt big down at all when I apply the brake, and honestly it doesnt sound like its idling too fast, it sounds good, just the chain is still moving. I wonder if the clutch springs could be worn.
Is this the saw you put the clutch with only 2 springs on? If so, its definitely possible that its weak
Remember, do not let these saws sit and idle for long periods! I made that mistake when trying to match a carb and coil once. It died and wouldn't run right afterwards and I ended up taking that one and having to have it reflashed
Freudianfloyd
Clinically Diagnosed with CAD
The clutch I used was a used 3 shoe clutch I got off of Chainsawr. I will try swapping over to the 2 shoe after I put my tach on it and see if that takes care of it.
I will try not to let the saw idle any longer than needed. Seems crazy to me, but I understand why.
I will try not to let the saw idle any longer than needed. Seems crazy to me, but I understand why.
The springs could very well be weak, especially coming from a well used saw.
Freudianfloyd
Clinically Diagnosed with CAD
So I checked with my tach, and it's only idling at 2400-2500 rpm. From what I read about these saws, they typically idle around 2800, please correct me if I'm wrong. And from the repair manual I have, the clutch shouldn't engage until around 3500 rpm.
With that said, I'm going to swap the clutch and see what happens.
yeah it sounds like you have a weak clutch. How tight are you running the chain?
Freudianfloyd
Clinically Diagnosed with CAD
Chain is loose. But I think that it's the clutch. Unfortunately, I will have to make a tool to remove the clutch, it's not like my Stihls, so when I do, i will see what the other clutch does.
If I put the chain against wood without throttle it stops instantly. And like I said, it's only running about 2500 rpm.
Yeah sounds like weak clutch springs.
Freudianfloyd
Clinically Diagnosed with CAD
I was having an issue with starting it, it seemed like it struggled a bit, but when looking it over, I noticed one of the lines from the primer bulb popped off. So I put it back on and went back out to my log and did some more full throttle runs. She seems to start right up on the first pull now.
But.....
Question for you 562 pros though, is it necessary to recalibrate the carb every time you start a new job. What I mean is, now that it seems to be running great, will I need to recalibrate it in a week if it's been sitting, or should it be good until another repair?
But.....
Question for you 562 pros though, is it necessary to recalibrate the carb every time you start a new job. What I mean is, now that it seems to be running great, will I need to recalibrate it in a week if it's been sitting, or should it be good until another repair?
Just start it, give it a few throttle blips, and put it in the wood. It will adjust itself for conditions in a matter of seconds.
